Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
- 1k views
The clutch pedal on my 1971 240Z was changed out with one from a 1972-73 due to the pivot pin hole being in better shape. The clutch master cylinder rod had plenty of adjustment after the 72-73 pedal swap, but when the pedal was pushed to the floor it didn't hit the rubber on the stop plate. I reinstalled the clutch pedal that was on the car when I bought it and the pedal hits the stop, but the pedal heighth is now at least an inch lower than the brake pedal. I've bled the clutch several times using various methods. Has anyone had a problem with the pedal swap or have an idea on the pedal as well as the ease of pushing the clutch down. The car is being restored and I hav…
Last reply by 240ZX, -
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- 1 reply
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I have a 75 280z and im not getting spark. I need an electronic control module for a 75 280z with california emissions!! If anyone can help or knows where i can find one i would really appreciate it!!! Thanks
Last reply by stevef1972z, -
- 3 replies
- 2k views
If have a '77 280z coupe and recently had a complete re-work of the brakes. While they are functional - - - they scream loud enough to hear them in Chattanooge from Atlanta. They used to use the old asbesots pads but we don't do that anymore. Does anyone have recommendations for a braked pad for my car that is quiet?
Last reply by jthill3, -
- 3 replies
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I'm restoring my 1974 260Z and found an OE radio with appropriate electrical connectors. My problem is a previous owner installed an aftermarket radio and cut off the radio connector from the Console wiring harness. Does anyone have or know where I can get the connector that is usually part of the Console harness? Thanks, Jim K. 301-848-0355
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 12 replies
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I have a early 1974 260z with all the interlock relays ,seatbelt relay ,emergency switch etc. so if the car sits for a while or for no reason at all I try to start the car all I here is clicking.buonce the new key switch to start several times and all of a sudden the starter kicks in.now when this happens and I hold the key to start position and somebody taps the interlock relay under the hood, which is next to the seatbelt relay, then the starter works.so interlock relay must be bad and is no longer available need to bypass this system . anybody figure out how to bypass the relays and go straight the the starter selonoid thanks kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 7 replies
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ok HI all been working on the car off and on for about 2 years now. just a few questions. 4/75 hls30-213502 So what have I got? 260?280? ok I have been having problems with the car wanting to run for a few miles then stumble, then cut out. I turn the key off then back on to the start position ,then I have to jump the starter because the key won't crank it,then it will run good for another few miles and then it starts acting up again. Since I bought this car I have replaced the injectors,installed used fuel pump,fuel filter,temp sensor(just this morning) and it still acts up. I have had the tank out and washed it out with Muratic acid whic cleans it great but then it start…
Last reply by DeesZ, -
- 4 replies
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I tried to order a new valve cover-to-air cleaner box hose from Courtesy, but I ended up with the hose that goes from the block (under the dizzy) to the PCV valve on the balance tube. Does anyone have the part # for the valve cover-to-air cleaner hose that I need? Also, the 1970 (or 1971) air cleaner box that I bought has 2 large connection in the back, apart from the fuel bowl overflow and the vacuum taps. I know that 1 of the connections if for the hose that I need, what is the other large one for? It faces downward, and I can't figure out what goes there. Thanks as usual for the help. If Puxatawney Phil was right, only 2-1/2 months and I'll be able to drive the Z aga…
Last reply by Ttiger, -
- 10 replies
- 764 views
Hey, I have been having an intermittent problem and not sure how to fix and wanted to get some input from you guys to see if there is an easy fix? I have an intermittent rear tail light on the drivers side. Basically I changed out all the bulbs and made sure I had the correct 1157s where required. I then checked the wires and looked good to me except looks like previous owner spliced some of the wires together as I know the car was rewired at some point in the past. Both rear brake lights were then working. Recently the problem came back and the drivers side cut out (but it might have been occurring the whole time as I can not see the tail lights) and then later was work…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 15 replies
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Hi everyone. Here is my ordeal... I have tripple weber carbs. It was running one morning and I parked it in the garage so taht I can take out the bleed valve fromt he bottom of the bowl. It was stripped and I bought a new one. Machine shop took it out for me and then i put it back on. Now my car wont start. This is what I have on the car 73 240z 78 L28 engine with the electrical ignition module 40dcoe mail 130 f11 tubes air 180 50f9 idle I checked the gas, good check spark, good got a new ignition module good got a msd good still not cranking. cranks alittle but then just turns Can anyone help me on this please
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 0 replies
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Last summer my mom's estate willed me my Dad's 1978 280Z which he dearly loved. It was put in our barn in Michigan in June of 1983 when he became critically ill. The car has ~79,000 miles. Except for the bumpers, wheels and some reasonable engine aging the car looks new. Every singe switch, dial, instrument works. The interior is pristine. Now comes the bad news. I had the car mechanically gone over, repainted (original DAtsun orange (110) and shipped to me in Florida. The A/C doesn't work. I discovered that the pressure switch has retired (like me) and there just isn't one to be had. So I come to the folks who have either already solved this issue or know where I can ge…
Last reply by FloridaZ, -
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
My 73 240z (with round top carbs) started and ran fine about 3 months ago. I went to move it out of the garage and it ran real rough. I got it back in the garage and now I can get it started with starting fluid, but I dies as soon as that’s exhausted. After that I can get it to almost start. I read thru some of the posts and it seems the problem might be fuel related so I took the top of the floats, there was gas in the bowl, cleaned the little filter and reassembled. I also bought a new inline fuel filter and added oil to the plunger in the carb. I am next going to try blowing air through the fuel lines. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by 73_240z, -
- 7 replies
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Still working my install of the OEM radio in my '72. One thing that's vexed me has been re-installation of the heater panel (with cables still attached). As radio install did not require me to remove the heater / vent cables, I was able to pull them out slightly. Problem is that now when I screw the heater panel back in, there's a "bulge" right where the controls are. This actually led to a crack in my heater panel (my stupid fault), and the top slide is very difficult to move left/right. I see no obstruction, so that's not the issue. Is it possible that cables themselves are causing the resistance? Should I post pics? Also, the air outlet vent now rotates 360 degree…
Last reply by rdefabri,
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