Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,106 topics in this forum
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- 22 replies
- 4.1k views
Should I buy this car? The owner says it has very little rust with only 70k miles on it. He's willing to let it go for 2.3k. Car runs but I will be doing a ls1 swap anyways. It's a 3hr drive away and I will be checking it out tomorrow. The only bad thing I see is they destroyed the rear end with different horrbile looking lights and a hack job of a rear bumper shave. Owner says the rear was fiberglassed. What do you guys think? Buy or wait for a cleaner car? Unfortunately he doesnt have a better camera. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
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- 2 replies
- 1k views
I cant get the latch actuator rod removed from the handle! I thought these just pressed into the nylon fitting, but I cant get either side out. Is there some trick to this? thanks!
Last reply by Mike B, -
- 4 replies
- 2.2k views
Hello I just got a 1972 240z wiper motor is dead. I looked at the honda upgrade but guild was for a 73 240z Would the honda work in 72 ? Would the wiring be different then the guild? I just dont want to pay $300 for a used motor. Need one soon because it's raining
Last reply by soundmasterg, -
- 5 replies
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Hey guys Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I've never adjusted valves before. I read all the appropriate info and got the right tools (feeler gauge, crows feet wrench socket, 27mm socket, torque wrench) and know how to do it but... When got the No. 1 cylinder lined up, so the cam lobe points up, I can't get the nuts loose. I think the top one is the locking nut, botttom is adjuster. The locking nut is reg thread, righty tighty lefty loosey?? I could NOT get the top one to budge. EDIT: Okay I feel stupid now, I rechecked the write up and it appears that the BOTTOM nut is the lock nut, so I would need to lossen THAT first with the crows foot... right?? I used the 14mm …
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
Ok , here we (I) go again ... I'm needing pictures of which areas to fill in to stop the cabin leak . I know some members here have it nailed as to exactly where these inner panels are that leak the smell in ! I'm tired of getting the looks at the grocery store line up. They must think I tried to off myself without success in the garage with a tube ! My eyes literally it's so thick . My wife refuses to come with me on weekend cruises. We burn my clothes after I come home . I need to shower right away . The cats won't come near me . Please help . Pics ? :embarrass:
Last reply by Unkle, -
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
1. I drained my fuel tank 2. Added a (FI) filter after the tank and before the FP used new F.I. rated fuel line 3.Took the cap off (BA fuel pump)and looked for any yuck (none found) put back the seals and spinner put the cap back on tighten the bolts. 4.Changed the fuel filter 5. changed the pressure regulator. made sure everything was tight and sealed. Now I can not get the car to start it turns over but nothing tried to cough (almost start) a couple times at first but not since and yes I put gas in the tank about 2 gallons. The only thing I can think of is that I did not put the fuel pump back together correctly but it looked like it only went together one way. Do I hav…
Last reply by genova, -
- 32 replies
- 2.8k views
So, I bought my car about a year and a half ago... a 1972 240z. A month later, the cylinder head went, so I replaced it with a 1975 280z n42 head. I have had some problems here and there with the car but overall it runs fine. There is just one little problem that no one seems to know the answer to... that is, when it reaches ~4500rpms the engine will die and then catch at 4000rpms. If you keep flooring it, it will just repeat this action over and over and over again... never going higher than 4500. Now, if you give it 75% throttle, it will pass the 4500 mark without any problems. I am totally confused... could it be the n42 head? If you need any more information on the ca…
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
The clutch pedal on my 1971 240Z was changed out with one from a 1972-73 due to the pivot pin hole being in better shape. The clutch master cylinder rod had plenty of adjustment after the 72-73 pedal swap, but when the pedal was pushed to the floor it didn't hit the rubber on the stop plate. I reinstalled the clutch pedal that was on the car when I bought it and the pedal hits the stop, but the pedal heighth is now at least an inch lower than the brake pedal. I've bled the clutch several times using various methods. Has anyone had a problem with the pedal swap or have an idea on the pedal as well as the ease of pushing the clutch down. The car is being restored and I hav…
Last reply by 240ZX, -
- 1 reply
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I have a 75 280z and im not getting spark. I need an electronic control module for a 75 280z with california emissions!! If anyone can help or knows where i can find one i would really appreciate it!!! Thanks
Last reply by stevef1972z, -
- 3 replies
- 2k views
If have a '77 280z coupe and recently had a complete re-work of the brakes. While they are functional - - - they scream loud enough to hear them in Chattanooge from Atlanta. They used to use the old asbesots pads but we don't do that anymore. Does anyone have recommendations for a braked pad for my car that is quiet?
Last reply by jthill3, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
I'm restoring my 1974 260Z and found an OE radio with appropriate electrical connectors. My problem is a previous owner installed an aftermarket radio and cut off the radio connector from the Console wiring harness. Does anyone have or know where I can get the connector that is usually part of the Console harness? Thanks, Jim K. 301-848-0355
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 12 replies
- 7.1k views
I have a early 1974 260z with all the interlock relays ,seatbelt relay ,emergency switch etc. so if the car sits for a while or for no reason at all I try to start the car all I here is clicking.buonce the new key switch to start several times and all of a sudden the starter kicks in.now when this happens and I hold the key to start position and somebody taps the interlock relay under the hood, which is next to the seatbelt relay, then the starter works.so interlock relay must be bad and is no longer available need to bypass this system . anybody figure out how to bypass the relays and go straight the the starter selonoid thanks kully
Last reply by kully 560,
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