Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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just purchased a 1976. Sat for 5 years from a supposed fuel pump prob...long story short can not find fuel pump relay, fuel pump works with wire from batt. Problem is was able to start car with fuel poured into air intake, car would stop when out of fuel. Visual check showed injectors working. Found replacement ecu, transistor, condensors, throttle position( on intake) regulator,coil.. because car is now NOT getting spark...have clean every terminal, connector ect...any ideas?? Thank you.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 4 replies
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Okay, so i am new here, and i came straight to the forum for help. I am restoring a 280z and i have never seen another completed Z as long as i can remember. So i need to ask........ did the car have a 3 point seatbelt stock or was it just a lap belt system? i am hoping it was a lap belt so i can get this beast on the road. Many thanks
Last reply by Arne, -
- 11 replies
- 2k views
Does anyone have an exploded view of the steering assembly from wheel forward? I am trying to see the horn pad mount and the steering coupler...thanks in advance. A Google search did not produce the desired result.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 19 replies
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I just replaced my fuel pump with an OEM model from AutoZone (Airtex). Car started great, until I noticed fuel coming out of the overflow vents at the air cleaner base. The car ran fine prior to the fuel pump replacement. All that I changed was the fuel pump...I am guessing that this is related to the floats - possible they are stuck (since the car was "dry"). I need to open them up and check. Assuming that ISN'T the problem - any other ideas? I know the fuel rail is clear, but it's worth checking the return line. I am bummed
Last reply by whamo, -
- 4 replies
- 962 views
I'm always looking for old Z's. Found a 1973 for sale in a small town nearby. The owner says its a 240z se. Was there such a Zcar and what was special about them? A google and this site search did not turn up anything. Thanks Jon
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
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I haven't posted in some time. right now im installing my r200 diff in my 72 240z and i notiiced that i have no brackets for a sway bar nor a sway bar and one of rear pasenger control arm is flipped nd not having a sway bar as well is it normal? i wanted to know how to install a sway bar on the rear i know my o73 had a sway bar.
Last reply by Curtis240Z, -
- 12 replies
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At this point in time, I've changed all of the bushings. That includes the mustash bar, and the rear diff. front mount. I've changed the drive shaft U-Joints, and the half shaft U-Joints. One of the drive shafts was starting to go bad. The two lower half shaft U-joints were getting a little bad. Guess what? I still get a lower decible, low pitch CLUNK:mad: I can't believe it. A complete master bushing set. And lately, all these other parts, and still a slight clunk. Could it be one of the carrier bearings behind the oil seals, that were also changed in the diff??? Could it be something in the rear brakes??? It's diffenetly behind me. I noticed the slightest amo…
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
Had my car out for a drive today - everything was great, beautiful weather! Anyway, while driving, my car suddenly stalled and I could not restart it. I pushed it into a parking space and tried, in vain, to get it running again. I sprayed starter fluid into the carbs, it coughs, but doesn't catch once the ether is burned off. As I had a similar issue last year (never identified), I have checked the following: Getting spark? - YES Fuel pump working? - YES Carbs getting gas? - YES In fact, as I said, when I spray ether into the carbs, the ether ignites and the car will turn over, but for some reason it doesn't stay running. I never checked the fuel filter, but the carbs A…
Last reply by rdefabri, -
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I just purchased and restored a 240z steering wheel for my 75 280z. Over all it came it pretty nice. I'm having one issue though. The steering wheel did not come with a horn pad and I am trying to use my 280z horn pad I just got. I'm able to get everything mounted but the horn doesn't stop. Its wierd because I know that no metal is touching but it still goes off. Even without the horn pad it goes off. Its like the screws are magically touching metal that I can't see. Think that if I just get new screws it would work? When I take all the screws out it works fine. Here are some pics... Before... After...
Last reply by m4xwellmurd3r, -
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I just found a broken thread on one of the head bolt holes on my N42 block, and I'm thinking to fix it with a helicoil. Does anyone have the head bolt size (dia. and thread pitch) info. or maybe the helicoil part number handy? Many thanks in advance.
Last reply by Tak510, -
- 21 replies
- 3.2k views
I dont know what is causing the Z to overheat. The radiator is brand new and it has a new thermostat. It is a late 74 260z all stock. any help would be great.
Last reply by Massimo, -
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Hey folks - I am so ignorant on this so I am looking for a little help. Currently I have s stock '77 280Z coupe with a 4-speed. It runs 4000RPM at 80mph. I am looking at buying a 5-speed transmission core and rebuilding it. I have been told that would improve my highway MPG by almost 30%. Would this be worth it? Do you think this would help at all? Are there other things I could do instead? Thanks for any and all help. Tommy
Last reply by sblake01,
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