Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
-
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 775 views
Wondering what, if any, issues I may have with this swap electrically. I've done this many times for 240Zs I've owned, but am unsure what other functions the ECU manages on a 280Z that I'll have to work around. I plan to manage fuel pressure with an inline regulator to compensate for the difference from 3-5 lbs. (carbs) to +30 lbs. (injection). Thanks for your help/thoughts.
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
-
- 10 followers
- 87 replies
- 7.5k views
I know this has been discussed in the past but the solutions haven't worked out for me. I have a 1978 Datsun 280Z. Pretty much all the bushings have been replaced with polyurethane. I have replaced the inner and outer tie rods, front wheel bearings, ball joints were replaced 2 years ago less than 5k miles. I have tokico lowering springs, I also have technotoytuning front and rear control arms. I also have a momo steering wheel. I have a pretty bad vibration coming from the steering wheel. I should also add that I've balanced the tires at least 5 times at this point, and the alignment has been done although I do have about -2 degrees of camber front and rear camber left si…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 621 views
Hello, This is probably a stupid question, but how is the rear license plate bracket supposed to attach to the body? It looks like the only mounting points are the 2 standoffs on the bottom, but they are just through holes and not threaded. I was surprised to see they weren't threaded. I bought the car in pieces so I never saw how it was attached. Thanks
Last reply by fusion, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 382 views
So my driveshaft on my 260 makes a noise when at high speeds I take my foot off the accelerator. Basically if I am punching it and say OK - fast enough and stop the acceleration and then are coasting with no torque to the drive shaft it makes this same noise it is making in this video, just much more, louder etc. it sounds like the driveshaft is gonna come up through the floor- maybe that's an exaggeration but you get the idea. Is that amount of play in the driveshaft correct? I replaced the universals a while back , doesn't seems like they are part of the play , it seems like either the transmission or the Differental.IMG_4827.MOV Any thoughts?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 4 followers
- 19 replies
- 1.5k views
So the speedo needle in my late model 260 started bouncing excessively the other day. The bounce range being 30 to 80 MPH. It works fine then bounces, back to fine etc, etc. So I took the speedo cable off at both the speedo and trans, it was well oiled and in what seems to be very good shape. I took it out of the sheath to check for cable damage and found none. I took the pinion gear out and it looks good also, 16 tooth no damage I can see. So...what's the deal, why the bounce. Is the speedo itself having an issue? Any thoughts?
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 2 followers
- 56 replies
- 2.7k views
Hi guys, I'm running lean all of a sudden and not sure why. It is worst when hot-starting with a very lumpy idle that stabilizes after a minute or so but it is weak throughout the rev range (unless flooring the pedal). The idle stabilizes the longer it sits but is definitely misfiring (or not firing) when hot started. The idle is very lumpy but also smells very rich. New plugs with ~2 hours run time on them. Injectors about 2 years old. Any idea on the below plug images?
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 335 views
I have a 12/70 car that is having a serious rear brake issue. Here is the background. I have an early 2/71 parts car (still lots of Series 1 pieces) that I removed the suspension from, had sandblasted and then powder coated. As I removed suspension pieces from the12/70, I replaced with the refreshed pieces and torques to spec. At the same time, I rebuilt the halfshafts, replaced and greased the u-joints, replaced and greased all bushings, replaced shocks and springs (Koni yellows and Eibach springs), replaced all bearings, and packed the hubs with fresh grease. The last piece of the puzzle are the rear brakes. I replaced the pads, added rubber new brake lines, b…
Last reply by bluez, -
- 5 followers
- 21 replies
- 2.5k views
I have an L28 in my 71 240Z. It's carbureted and using points ignition. I attached photos of the the jet all the way up and all the way down. Also a pic of the timing scale. Before I used Colortune: I plugged the vacuum advance on distributor I set the timing at 10 degrees on the scale. I adjusted carbs for a 800 rpm idle I also balanced the carbs. I turned both Jets all the way up and then backed them down two full turns. I reconnected the vacuum advance. When using the Colortune: I couldn't get a blue color no matter what I did with the mixture screw I went all the way up to a weak mixture - screw would…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 659 views
Hello, I have a 76 280z. I am putting a momo 3503 hub adapter onto my steering shaft. Every video I've watched of people putting hub adapters on their s30 it seems they slide right on. Mine goes on very snug, but I can get it to go on about 6mm or so before it gets really hard. Maybe I could pound it on, but doesn't seem right and I don't know how I'd ever get it off. I have checked the splines on both the hub and shaft and they look OK. I even bought another hub and tried that with no success. I have 2 other steering shafts laying around and it's always the same thing. Is it possible both the …
Last reply by fusion, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 833 views
Hey I have a few questions about the rear Hatch Struts. I’ve read a few previous posts on the topic but I’m not 100% clear on the topic. So is the rear hatch supposed to open by itself all the way once you push the release button? Or do you have to assist it a few inches before it opens all the way up? My rear hatch won’t open by itself, I have to assist it pretty much all the way. Now it holds open no problem and requires mild effort to close it. At the last 3-4” when closing it will not hold, it basically free falls the last 3 inches. So is this how it’s supposed to work? I was thinking maybe new struts might be in order. Now if they need to be repla…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 4 followers
- 14 replies
- 5.8k views
Purchased a one owner 1973 240Z with a L28 transplant (car has not run since 1999). Restored a 1969 SRL 311 (once Datsun always Datsun), the emission removal in 69 was much different then mid to late 70's?, I'm not sure the year of the L28 engine in the car, N42 head. The owner had extensive documentation but the service contract back in 83 neglected to state the year of the L28 engine installed. My question is where can I find step by step instructions on emission removal, vacuum bypass or plugging diagrams. See engine pics attached (sorry had to throw my Roadster engine pic in as well, car is for sale). The value in the center of the manifold (with throttle li…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 7.9k views
Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It out…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Parman
