Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
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I have been reading these posts and it is a wealth of information. I am looking to buy a 71 240Z in Seattle Friday. It looks great with the subtle z fender flares, rebuit e31 head, 6 in 1 header, aluminized exhaust, mallory dist, bored out 50 over with konig springs, HID headlights and PIAA driving lights. Sounds almost too good to be true for $6500. What are your thoughts? I am not scared as hell of rust in the floor boards reading from what everyone has said. The owner has only had it for 8 months and is a home builder and is need of the cash. He says the only rust is on the back hatch where it pools under the paint. He also said that it smells of fuel which I a…
Last reply by Mike B, -
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- 3 replies
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I will most likely be buying a 71 240Z tomorrow that the seller broker the e-brake cable by over adjusting the rear brakes. I called a dealer to see if they had one and he said Nissan is longer available. Any idea on where I can locate one from a dealer? I know some said ebay but nothing there right now. Any help would be good. Thanks
Last reply by rtaylor, -
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280z newbie here. :stupid: Here's the deal: I noticed that every time I stepped on my brakes, my stereo speakers made a funny noise. Then I noticed that my voltage meter would sputter with my engine. It didn't affect overall performance; it was a small issue. Then, every time I stepped on my brakes, my stereo would simply shut off, or my brake light would come on. The red charge light comes on now and she backfires/sputters and loses all kinds of power going up hills. I'm having issues that seem similar to injector problems. However, I'm inclined to think it an electrical problem since the brake light and car sputtering were the first signs of this issue. This morning I …
Last reply by evilpete, -
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My wheel cylinder (rear, driver's side) is leaking like a sieve. So of course I want to replace it. None of the stores here have them in stock at the moment, so I'm just going to order one myself. Before I do, though, just wanted to link y'all to pictures of the ones I might get just to make sure they're right. It says it's for my 74 260Z, but I just want to double check. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ260ZQQRaybestosQQWheel_CylinderQQ1974QQWC37305.html http://info.rockauto.com/RB/Detail2noTip.html?http://www.dormanproducts.com/images/items/hwrap1/p7250684.jpg The first one looks a bit different and doesn't have the adjuster (?) that the Dorman one ha…
Last reply by beandip, -
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Greetings Group, As you can see, I am a 911 guy, and sorry to sorta parachute in here, but a good friend, who is not into the Internet has a 280Z with a problem we don't know how to fix. I'm hoping this forum can help the way Rennlist does with my old 911. Dan accidentally put thw wrong key in his ignition and it fit well enough to get the switch to "on", but now it is locked there, and of course, the right key won't go in now. Is there a way to get the cylinder back to "off?" If not, how do you change out the cylinder from this starting point? Thanks in advance and sorry to jump in here! Best regards to all, Dave
Last reply by Ttiger, -
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I have got a problem with my ignition, the car starts fine but won't keep running. I can turn the key to start and no problem but when it goes back to ON the engine cuts out. I thought that it was the electical part of the ignition in the back of the lock so i ordered a new one from MSA, however the problem still occurs. Everything seems to be in good order, ie fuses, alternator, coil and ignition switch (the electrical module behind the lock), could my problem be the VR. If anyone has had this problem or knows an obvious solution please let me know.
Last reply by rzkas, -
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I recently replaced my keyed ignition switch as the old key (original) was so worn you could remove the key with the engine running. Since the replacement (and even before) a relay clicks but you have to try several times to get the starter to engage. Appears to be a relay problem. Any hints on what I should do? thanx, -C
Last reply by rzkas, -
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I have a 1975 280Z and am having issues with fuel flowing out of the fuel tank. I bought the car not too long ago. It sat for a while and had varnish built up in the fuel tank. I had the tank cleaned and coated with the red Por stuff. I connected a 280ZX fuel pump and I can hear the fuel pump turn on. Upon cranking, the car does not start. I pulled the fuel hose going into the fuel filter and turned the fuel pump on. There is no fuel coming out.. I pulled the hose that comes out of the fuel tank going into the fuel pump. There is fuel coming out but is not gushing out. I would think the fuel should just gush out.. Should it.??? I connected the fuel pump wiring di…
Last reply by biddljj, -
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Greetings, Ya'll. I've got a problem with a '76 that I initially thought was due to bad plug wires, but after changing them, twice, and checking the timing, I believe there is something else afoot. Thinking about how to diagnose this, I realized I could use a timing light to determine if the plugs were getting juice. So, 30 minutes ago I connected it up and found that cyl 4 & 5 are not "lighting up." When I initially changed the plug wires (Accel), I also replaced the coil with an MSD Blaster, thinking that perhaps the original coil had finally given up the ghost. Outside of this, I have done nothing else to the ignition. I inspected the distributor, and there seem…
Last reply by pbatura, -
- 6 replies
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:cry:All, I have my car broken apart at the shop to have the rear suspension parts swapped out, along with installing a R-200 differential. The spindle pin on the passenger side rear came out no problem; driver side rear is seized and will not come out (mechanic tried soaking, heat, etc) - partly due to rust. I now desperately need this part so I can get my car back together AND free up the shop's lift - they are losing money while my car sits in pieces. Z Barn might have one but the owner is away until next Tuesday. MSA and Black Dragon don't carry this part. Z Specialities is in the process of moving their warehouse for the next 6-8 weeks. Does anyone have one availabl…
Last reply by sdaughtry, -
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I'm using a heat gun and some metal cleaner paste, but it won't come off easily. You guys have better ideas or now some nasty stuff that works? I'm not going to use dry ice.:surprised I'm going to put the whole underside in POR-15. But want it bare to the metal first.
Last reply by Bart Hoedemaker, -
- 12 replies
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Hey, I was messing with my car today trying to figure out my headlight issue(low beams dont work but I get power to the light connecters with the switch on) when the car stalled out and wouldn't start again... I have a wire running from the battery to the + on the coil because something is wrong with my ignition switch (or so I was told). I can smell fuel and pulled one of the plugs but dont see any spark. Its really wierd because I had the car running and it just cut out, died and wouldn't start again. The other day I had a battery box on the car with the coil wire hooked to the battery, as got out of the car I noticed the coil area smoking so I quick disconnected it. Th…
Last reply by JimmyZ,
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KenFirch
