Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
- 35 replies
- 3.1k views
Hey guys I'm at a bit of a loss here. Problem: My gas gauge is correct until it reaches the 1/3 full mark. At that point, the needle will fall to an empty tank reading within a few miles. An empty tank reading at that time denotes 6 gallons remaining in the tank (if i take it immediately to a gas station, I will be able to put ~12 gallons in each time). Steps taken: I installed a new fuel sending unit from zcardepot which oddly didn't fix the problem. The only thing this fixed is my gas gauge needle slightly wiggled around a millimeter or 2 continually with the old unit - the new sending unit fixed that. Swapped out the dash gauge with a…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 911 views
Went to start my 1971 240Z project car the other day and the clutch does not disengage. Checked the forum and figured it was the Master or Slave cylinder. Ordered and replaced both, but only get about 3/4 inch travel on the slave cylinder after bleeding the system. What is my next step? Looking for any answers that you all may have. Many thanks.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
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I started with this adjustment guide: https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ I can get the motor to run for a bit, but then it suddenly will stop and spit fuel back out the carbs: I recently disassembled the distributor, cleaned everything, put in fresh points and some other hardware. I just bought a timing gun, but it's hard to check timing on one side of the car and start it on another, seeing as how it usuall doesn't run for too long. Has anyone seen something like this before? Other videos: https://youtu.be/jRxGxSqsDXw, https://youtu.be/4MFxvqKeHo0
Last reply by Awk34, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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Hi All, Got a fun clicking noise coming from my L24, goes up with engine revs. Just replaced a worn camshaft and rockers trying to solve it, valve lash set cold. Engine is an E31 from an earlier car. The old spark plug lead pull seems to quench it a little. Anyone recognize it?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
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I just started my motor with my rebuilt head and once it heats up it sounds like someone is beating the valve cover with a hammer. I reused the cam, rockers, and lash pads since my motor guy said they were in good shape. New valves, guides, and seats were installed. I took a look inside and first found that they had three rockers in the wrong spot (per their engraved numbers). I also saw no markings on the lash pads so I'm guessing that they just put them wherever. I looked at the wear pattern for the three swapped rockers and nothing was centered. I want to replace (or regrind) my rockers and get new lash pads but I can't seem to find where you get lash pads near the…
Last reply by Zaspen, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 620 views
Hi! The driver's side door on my 240z -73 suddenly deadlocks every time I close it. I've tried to investigate the mechanism, but can't locate the problem. I have to pull the inner lock upwards to be able to open it. The passenger door is fine (two steps turn on the mechanism, then release by the handle. Anyone with a clue? And btw, I do not have the working keys right now (will arrive this weekend) so I have to open the rear and pull up the pin each time... All help appreciated. Thanks!
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.6k views
Cleaning/refurbing the engine bay. As expected, the area under the battery has the most corrosion, including the fuel and brake lines/brackets that run in that area. Well, while disassembling everything one of the fuel lines was corroded so bad that it snapped in half. The corroded area of the snapped line/pipe runs for several inches. I'm looking for some good ideas on the best way repair this. The line in question is the fuel return line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail back to the fuel tank. Any and all ideas are welcome...I'm really hoping there is an effective repair option short of replacing the entire pipe all the way to the…
Last reply by Freez74, -
- 3 followers
- 18 replies
- 1.9k views
Hello. My name is Alex. Just to let you guys know that I’m very new with cars and this is my very first project car so please bear with me. i have a 1977 Datsun 280z that has no fuel going to the engine. I figured it was the pump itself not working so I had it replaced. However, after that, it continued to not work. I’ve been searching online for some solution however I still can’t seem to figure out what’s the problem. Here are some things I’ve tried. So my engine doesn’t start and while it cranks there is no volts coming to the fuel pump. I tried to look for my fuel pump relay and most people say it’s under the driver side for a 1977. However,…
Last reply by Alex240z, -
- 4 followers
- 13 replies
- 2.6k views
Hi guys, Trying to remove the hands on my 1978 280z Quartz clock to swap on the white face decal but can't seem to figure it out. I heard somewhere that you just kinda yank the hands off (straight up) but I tried that and feel I'm going to break something. Any ideas? -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 4 followers
- 33 replies
- 4.8k views
Hi All, I did a little searching and while I'm guessing my issue is common, I can't find an existing thread. Our car starts fine regardless of temp outside. But we are having trouble with the throttle response. As in, if we slowly move the throttle, it stumbles but eventually comes up and if we blip the throttle, it almost dies and then runs up after we let off the throttle. For a while we thought it was a vacuum leak because no matter what we did, we couldn't get the idle above 650. Found a leak and fixed it. Can get it to idle at 800 now. Using carb cleaner spray test, there is now no vacuum leak we can find. Now the idle seems fine, but still falls on it's fa…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.2k views
Are all S30 control arms and strut assembly interchangeable? I've decided to redo my rear strut assembly. I just wasn't happy with the final result. I see some for sale that only say they're for 260Z and 280Z, but don't say 240Z?
Last reply by HappyZ, -
As stated, my circuit for the tail lights, side markers, running light and dashboard light is completely out. I’ve tried cleaning the headlight/light switch (really needed a clean) but still nothing. I’ve got the Electric wiring map, but since someone has changed the colors of the cables I have a hard time following. Can anyone tell me - How does this circuit run? Where are the grounding points? Connections that might fail? In the Dashboard? All ideas appreciated!!!! Oh, and I’ve got a -73 240Z, 5 speed manual. Thanks!!
Last reply by Bettan_85, -
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