Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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I don't own a real one BUT I need some help in building a scale model safari car, it's a 1/12th scale Tamiya model and I'm stuck with where I have to connect the oil cooler to on the motor, the car will be built to authentic acuracy as I can possibly get it but ot I need is as many photos as possible sent to me of the engine bay of a Kenyan safari car. Thank You .
Last reply by trucky217, -
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- 5 replies
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I found a 71 240z for sale. $1000. I looked at it a few days ago. looks complete. comes with some extra parts (weather stripping, kick panels, quarter panels) The engine is out of a 260z, new clutch, runs but carbs need cleaning. The only thing i found bad on this car is that there is plenty of rust right in front of the rear tires and there is a large dent on the quarter panel / drivers door. Is a grand a ripoff? or should i give it a closer look?
Last reply by HotrodPez, -
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Hey all, My intake/exhaust gasket has deteriorated and I decided to go ahead and swap it out. I took off the injector connectors, the 3 sensor connectors and the 4 clip-together wires on the top of intake manifold. I then took a look at the lower manifold nuts and decided to go ahead and do this when I had access to more tools. I took the cruise control out along with the 2 vacuum sensors (I think that's what they are) located on the cruise control bracket with a vacuum line going between them. (I plugged the line) I hooked everything back up (injectors/spark wires/sensors/4 weird wires) and now the car revs really harshly and drops down and dies when I let off the gas. …
Last reply by 2.8.0.z.x, -
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I have one original blue plate registered with my 71 240z, how can I get another exactly the same one for the front? I checked some licence plate maker, and they all say it is not legal to use it as a real licence plate, any idea?
Last reply by ramblux, -
- 3 replies
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After sitting with a full tank of gas for 6 months, the gas gauge quit working. The needle is dead at the total bottom. Is there an easy way to test the tank unit in the car, or the gauge in the car, to help determine which one is bad? Where does the gas gauge get the electricity to operate; from the tank or a feed under the dash? Thanks!
Last reply by Kerrigan, -
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i just replaced my distributor, and the car runs perfect until i drive it for a while. after about 5 minutes, when i step on the gas, the rpms will rise, and then drop and the car will lose power. could this be a vacuum problem?
Last reply by Rust Bucket, -
- 13 replies
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Regarding the manifold finish survey hls30 ran back in sept: the jet hot process got a lot of votes. My question is whether that could be considered "stock" in an original car show. Looks great. "Real" original would seem to be the rusty crusty cast iron.
Last reply by Zulaytr, -
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I have a 73 240z that I've been trying to get road worthy. After inspecting the ignition components I discovered the vacuum advance isn't working. After pulling it and giving it the suck test its not leaking but I can't come close to moving it with just lung power. The spring on the arm is so stout I don't know how the diaprham could ever move it. Is this normal? Hope its not trash because these things seem to be a bugger to find. Any help would be much appreciated.
Last reply by Curtis240Z, -
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I'm restoring a 72Z and have a floor part question. I'm replacing the passenger side floor pan. As you know, the floor pan kits come with a metal support on the underside that stops at the toepan. However, there is a wedge shaped metal piece that runs forward from the toepan to a point wher the right front support strut connects. This is rusted out and doesn't seem to be part of the kit. On the driver's side, the original part is all one piece that goes under the floor pan and includes the forward piece I'm talking about. Hope this is not too confusing an explanation. This is not about the front frame rails which are a seperate issue. Thanks ahead of time to all you kno…
Last reply by swflaz, -
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I am listed as Coke Man and I am new to the site. I have a 1974 260Z and the strips on the front and rear bumpers need to be replaced along with the rubber that fits up against the car behind the bumpers. I could also use some bumpers that are in great shape as mine are a little dull. Can anyone help. Also does anyone know where I can get some radio knobs for thr radio mine are missing. One other thing I have a R200 rear end and when going down the road as long as it is pulling it is quite however, when I let off the gas I rear a noise. Could this be a bad u-joint? By the way I really enjoy this site.
Last reply by al'z, -
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It appears to be a drain hole of some sort, under the carpet. The hole is missing like a rubber plug (about a 2" hole). Does anyone know where to get a replacement plug? I've checked Blackdragon and Motorsport with no luck.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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- 7.7k views
I have been carefully working this last injector screw. Tighten a fraction, then loosen a fraction, used penatrating oil, etc etc. Been on this for a week. Finally most of the grip within the screw head is gone, so I can't even grip with the phillips screwdriver. This is in a tight spot. Any suggestions on removing this? I have a spare car with an intact fuel rail, injectors, and screws, etc, so if I have to break this injector I will, but I want to use that as a last resort!! Thanks to any and all that can help.
Last reply by Cracker Jack,
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