Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Anyone know where I can find an oil pan for sale . I've been searching, and so far all I've found are performance pans. I've seen 7, and 8 quart pans for between $550, and $750. I just need a stock pan that isn't pieced together with strips of aluminium. OBX
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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- 11 replies
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I apologize in advance for being long-winded. It seems like I've had problems with almost every part I received from Classic Tube. First, both lines from the brake master were too long. The brake line running down the passenger side frame rail was awkwardly made. Those problems were fixable, but I've got one that I can't figure out. Today, I'm tightening everything down getting ready to put my motor back in. Under the car, in the rear where the brake line connects to the brake line valve by the rear pass. wheel (don't know real name, sorry) I try to screw in the brake line. After several minutes I take it out & make sure the threads are good on both the valve &am…
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
- 5 replies
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1975 280z no power to electric fuel pump , jumped it with 12volts and turned on,checked fuses all are fine ,poured 2 oz of gas into fuel injector car cranked and ran until gas burned off -engine seems fine,there is no gas flowing from pump to injectors and yes ther is gas in the tank. Any advice?
Last reply by sblake01, -
CHTS Need help 1 2
by gryt57- 13 replies
- 2.4k views
New Z owner here, car is having problems passing emissions. After searching every forun I could find, it seems the chts is a reason the car would run rich. I think I located the chts, passenger side, cylinder head, between #5 and 6. The problem, there is no wire anywhere in sight to attach to the sensor. Previous owner changed all fuel injectors cutting wires to redo them. Is this where the wiring should come from?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 12 replies
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1975 280z will not crank,mechanic told me i need to replace mass air flow meter.Do I need to reset anything ,it still dosen't crank but turns over and I have compression and spark.
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 2 replies
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Hi first off I ate a rod bearing on my L24 so i pulled it out and dropped in a L28 from a 280z parts car motor ran not good then bad injectors but it would still drive. I installed all my stuff off of my 71' 240 onto it, I have a 76' electronic ignition new wires and good plugs, also installed my headers, aswell as my dual weber carbs did all that turn the key and it starts not smooth like my old one but starts. The problem is if u give it any gas at all it stumbles and tries to die, half the time it will die but start right back up at the turn of the key. I have checked my timing and i am confused i set distributor at the 11 o'clock it calls in chilton check rotor and it…
Last reply by pimpjester, -
I just bought my 240z with a 280z engine and 5 speed. I was driving the 3 hour drive home and started to feel some bucking when I tried to accelerate. I came to a stop on a BUSY two lane highway, and of course it died. Not a good experience. My friend jumped out and started to push the car out of the way. I decided to get out and forgot the car was still in gear. I let off the clutch and it rumbles to life. I manage to baby it to the side of the road where it died again. This time it wouldn't start. It just clicked when I turned the key. Decided to wait to see if I had flooded the engine. Waited 30 minutes and still nothing happened. I called the tow truck guy and had it…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 4 replies
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I changed fuel pump/filter, drained tank, changed fuel, checked points cap etc. gets spark to plug, fuel flows to carbs, will start with starting fluid, but will not continue to run, today cleaned the bells and seems to start a little easier with start fluid, but still won't run, any ideas? the redneck 4 bbl conversion is starting to look like a smart move.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 6 replies
- 3.1k views
Please help!! Appear to have a fuel starvation problem in 71 240Z. Symptoms: Popping at higher RPMs. Popping with choke on. Popping during deceleration. Idles fairly well with no popping. When I try to accelerate from a dead stop the car sputters and wants to die. I have to push in clutch and rev up engine or put choke on in order to accelerate. Done so far: Did full tune up and then went to adjust carbs. First adjusted air flow with uni-syn. Second tried to adjust fuel mixture. Front carb always seems to be too lean. Fully unscrewed mixture nut (away from bottom of carb which is supposed to richen mixture) and engine wants to die immediately upon pushing in pin on bott…
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
- 4 replies
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so i just got this 280z, manufactured on 2/78 and it wont run. all i have are motorcycles and its getting colder. it will start OCCASIONALY if i keep cranking it, but it stalls almost immediately. the few times it ran for a second it dies as soon as you touch the throttle. ill try to describe all that ive done in detail as far as troubleshooting. starting with fuel delivery, i heard they were notorious for rust so i pulled the tank and flushed it out. i got out a bunch of debris. i also blew compressed air through the feed and return lines on the fuel tank to ensure it wasnt clogged. next i pulled the pump and damper assembly. pulled the pump assembly apart to check for d…
Last reply by joerocket, -
- 14 replies
- 3k views
My mechanic just called and he's just about done fixing the timing and a few other things on my 78, but he says he wants to replace the exhaust manifold gasket at the engine because there's a leak. I've known about this, it's nothing big, but he wants 300 dollars to replace it! Is that a little much? He usually gives me decent prices for his work, but this sounds like he's getting a little greedy. Should I bring her home and do it myself? How much should I pay him to do it? I need to know right now, because I need to call him to cancel the work, otherwise he's going to fix it.
Last reply by 76Datsun280z, -
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
Hi all , is there a quick an easy test for testing if the oil pressure sender is functioning properly . My problem is that my needle doesn't move at all .the temp gauge functions properly and I do seem to have all wires hooked up under dash at back of gauge . It has not worked since I purchased the car so , before I go to the parts store and spend again , can someone shoot me some advice ? Thanxz Chris
Last reply by beandip,
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