Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
I need a drivers side rear half shaft, pulled mine off to do rear bearings found drivers side half shaft threads stripped off totally ruined. Can anyone sell me the drivers rear half shaft, can't find one. So my car no go
Last reply by S20, -
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- 20 replies
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I recently bought a 1973 - 240z. I just disassembled & cleaned the Wiper Switch, Turn Signal Switch and the Combination Switch. As a result, hazards flash brighter, wipers are faster, the dash lights now work(did not before) and the parking lights & headlights are all brighter. This is the good news. The bad news is that when I turn the combination switch from Parking Lights --> Headlights, the dash lights/parking lights go out! For some reason they don't stay lit. I pulled out the C/S and validated the switch appears to work properly. I confirmed continuity across the parking light (green wires) in both parking light and headlight positions, while …
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 1 reply
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Hi, been fixing problems on my car since purchase last March. Here is what I have done. Replaced: plugs (NGK) wires (Nissan) thermostat (Nissan) rotor distributor cap PCV (old one was froze) air filter fuel filter distributor (old one was froze up and vacuum advance leaked, have set timing and am getting good advance now) vacuum lines water temp sensor and connector AFM boot from AFM to throttle body The previous owner had set the TPS to where it was in WOT mode at all times. I believe this was to mask a running lean problem. Once I set it back correctly I have started the following problem. My car now hesitates on acceleration and will fire through the intak…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 4 replies
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A while back I was having problems with idle and acceleration with my 78 280z. You guys gave me alot of helpful advice, and I managed to get it running really good.(It turned out to be the throttle pos. switch. I took the cover off, and bent the left contact slightly so it made contact right away, and it solved the hesitation problem.) The only problem I have now is when I come to a redlight, or push the clutch in, if the idling is above 1500 rpm, the idle will slowly climb to 3000 rpm. If I wait until the rpm's go down to about 1200, and then push the clutch in, it will stay around 1000 rpm. I checked the linkage and throttle body, and it is closed. When I start it up it…
Last reply by s14280zx, -
- 7 replies
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I've been having trouble with my 280z running right, I posted a thread, and tried all of the suggestions, but I still have problems. Now when I start it up, it fires right up and idles fine. As soon as I go to give it a little gas it bogs out. If I floor it it stumbles a little, but then revs good. I crawled under to look at the fuel pump, and looked up the part #, and it is the right one, but they bypassed the fuel regulator that was back by the tank.(it was all rusted up) Could this cause it to run too rich, and flood itself out after sitting(see my other thread). Thanks for everyone's comments and advice.
Last reply by s14280zx, -
- 10 replies
- 2k views
Looking for a set of 280zxt wheels.
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 43 replies
- 4.6k views
So, i finally got to take my 280z out for a spin today. It ran great. till it overheated, the headgasket is fine, it doesn't burn antifreeze (no smoke) nor does it leak into the oil or anything (looked in the rad, no oil) but it overheats REALLY badly. could it be that there's some nasty garbage inside the hoses or something? how would i know if it's the water pump, if that's the problem? (when i say bad, i mean, within like, 5-10 minutes of driving)
Last reply by m4xwellmurd3r, -
- 2 replies
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is there a trick to inserting them, bought the small kit for 8mm, drill bit, tap and coils, but cant seem to get them inserted, get like one or two threads in and stops!
Last reply by TBK1, -
- 2 replies
- 1.5k views
I need to try and locate the part numbers for Nissan for the "Tie Rod Assembly" that is the Tie Rod and also the Inner Tie Rod for a 1975 280z (north american model) ... the tie rod bolts on mine are seize and I have to change the tie rod boots for the car to pass inspection. Thank you for the help.
Last reply by 280z1975, -
- 10 replies
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I'm doing the final assembly of my engine before I throw it into the car, and I just have a couple questions before I fully take the plunge. I had new pistons installed into my block (flattops with valve recesses, bored .020 over), had the block decked and had the bottom of the head shaved slightly to ensure a good mating surface. The new pistons protrude out of the cylinder bore slightly past the deck of the block. I understand that this is alright, as long as you run the correct thickness gasket. I am using a gasket out of the master rebuild kit that the machine shop gave me. I have put the head on and torqued everything together, and then spun the engine over by han…
Last reply by Pir0San, -
- 9 replies
- 1.7k views
Ok i have searched and found nothing that helps i have a 71' 240z the hoses are hooked up looks like they are correctly done i have tried moving all cable operated doors for the heat vent floor defrost. I have loosened hoses and checked for air in lines but all hoses are full off water. I appreciate the time Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
My 73 is driving me nuts. I dont have a spark from the plugs or coil. PO installed Elec Ign but I dont know how to wire it properly. I no longer have power to the + post of the coil so I ran a jumper of 12V and still nothing. tried another coil (not sure if its good) with no luck. I've been trying to follow my factory wiring diagram but it doesnt work too well with EI installed. There is still a resistor installed and it gets warm with the key in the run position with car not running. If anyone has the wiring diagram for wiring the EI that would be great. the dist has a red and a black wire from it. thanks
Last reply by Linkstar07,
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