Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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In 1989 I built a PAW blower motor kit: chevy 350 with a B&M supercharger and a B&M superjection kit.[about 400 hp] This was installed in my Datsun 240 Z with a Nordskog kit. The tranny is a GM 350 turbo. Initially there were cooling problems which were eventually solved with a 3 core radiator, oil cooler, and accessory trans cooler. This combinationj has run well for nearly 20 yrs, but now it gains heat at highway speeds. I think I need to redo the cooling system. The question is, what to select. Motorsport lists several radiators: 3 core, 4 core, 4 core crossflow, and 4core cross flow aluminum. Should I keep the add on oil and trans coolers? Any advise …
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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Anyone have s30 blueprints so i can print them out/trace them to come up with paint schemes and things of the sort?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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ok, so i've taught myself pretty much everything i know about cars. which is more than some, less than others. i just got a '72 240z and the brakes are bad. they get to about 2 inches from the floor before they engage. i tried bleeding the brakes, except, i could only figure out where the master cylinder bleed screws were. i think it helped a little bit, but that could just be my imagination.. does anybody want to tell me where i would find the individual bleeder screws for each brake? im a little new to the whole car thing, this is my first restoration, so be easy on me please.
Last reply by beandip, -
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I've replaced the FI on my son's '76 280z and replaced it with dual SUs. Probelem is that when I removed the FI wiring harnes, I lost the fuel pump relay. I had been given some earlier advice regarding new wiring for the lower-pressure pump I put in, but when looking at the wiring schematics, it seems to me that the 4-pin connector under the left side of dash, which has connections for the fuel pump, ignition switch and ignition module, would be a better way to address this, perhaps with another relay. Now, to my point, are there any sharp folks who 1) could offer guidance on this approach, and 2) wouldn't mind checking the changes before I try them? Thanks in advance fo…
Last reply by pbatura, -
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After a year of driving, all at once my 240Z dies after I get her up to around 50 miles per hour:dead: It idles fine. It runs up through the gears a little low on power, but still runs. Then after I try to cruise in fourth gear,,,it dies:dead: It will start right back up, immediately. It will get me home at a lower speed. It will not run at a higher speed. I had just replaced the voltage regulator the night before this all started to happen. I wouldn't think this should be the problem. I can dump he clutch when it dies, and it starts back up. When I bought the car it had the problem of dying out. The owner had gone through many things/ He finally changed out t…
Last reply by obxtrainman, -
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My passenger rattles very badly, it sounds like it could fly open at any moment. However, it shuts securely and can't be pushed open from the inside. I bought a pair of door bumpers to replace the two that had fallen out from each door. It actually seemed to make the problem worse. The weatherstripping is all there and looks okay. Is my latch in bad shape? Any ideas?
Last reply by 240ZX, -
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I'm no mechanic but tonight on the way home my lights started getting very dim and the car was hesitating, almost "missing" if that makes sense. By the time I got home I barely had enough headlight light to see 5 feet in front of me. I was thinking the alternator is bad, but I'm no mechanic. Also why would the car run so bad if the battery was failing..... Any thoughts?
Last reply by Arne, -
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I took the 71 out this evening to get a better feel for the car( I just got her two days ago) and just a few miles from home I applied the brakes and it was almost nothing....After changing my underwear I checked the fluid and the front reservoir was full but the back reservoir was empty. I know that I should have checked this prior since it is an unfamiliar car, but I didn't and earlier drives the brakes seemed a little soft, but worked fine. Anyway I filled up the reservoir but the brake pedal is still spongy. My question is if the reservoir went empty do the lines need to be bled? Would there be another reason for spongy brake pedal besides bleeding? Thanks in advanc…
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
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Could someone explain exactly what "ping" is. I have an idea, but somewhat uncertain. Thanx in advance for any replies. obx
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
I have a 75 280 w/ AC well there was AC anyways pumps been removed. Does any one know if there is anything vacum related that will stop my heater valve from opening? It was working but the valve itself was sticky so I moved it back and forth at few times with my fingers now NO HEAT. I think lever stripped on the valve but not sure.
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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As almost all of you know Z's are notorious for having problems running if the gas tank hasn't been re-lined. I had mine done at a local radiator shop, lining is black material that they said would never come off. Car ran great after having this done up until about 2 weeks ago. Roughly 8 months. However, son has replaced the fuel filter twice so far and says it's still sputtering and dying. I haven't looked at it yet but does it sound like I have trash in the tank again?? Any help would be appreciated.....thx
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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I changed my oil yesterday and over-tightened the drain plug, it now just turns in either direction. Luckily, no oil leaks. I'm guessing I stripped the threads in the oil pan. Any suggestions on removal? I'm hoping I don't have to replace the whole pan.
Last reply by sblake01,
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