Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 9 replies
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So I found a LSD 3.54 gear ratio differential. If I swap this into my 71 240z that has the stock differential which i believe the gear ratio to be 3.36 what kind of difference will I see. Is this a better upgrade? Any performance difference? Also I am running a 5 spd tranny and l24 modified. Thanks
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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- 1.1k views
How Do you put one of your pictures next to your name right here <----------------------------------
Last reply by kcoke, -
- 4 replies
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ok, so im not sure if this is what caused it, but today i tried to.."tune my carbs," meaning that i tried to make the mixture right. i twisted it all the way counter clockwise (which i think/hope is lean) and then i turned it two and a half times clockwise (they're stock SU's on my '72 240Z). there is now a bunch of smoke coming out of the exhaust, and when i was driving it i would step on the pedal and it would almost feel like i was engine braking, my car would actually SLOW DOWN when i stepped on the gas.. did i do something wrong? what might have caused my car to do that?
Last reply by Rust Bucket, -
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- 1.3k views
always the most rusted pat of the any z car.....how do i remvoe it?
Last reply by Mat M, -
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hey guys i need help badly. at parking if i hit the gas the car starts to shake at about 2500 rpm and if i let go and tap it again it raises to 3000 rpm and starts again. when it shakes the exhaust throws out smoke in puffs. this never happend before, i resently change the ingnition control after that its when it started. could it be the timing, if so how can i check it. because when i put the new magnetic pickup i thought i mark it and put back correct. any thoughts
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 14 replies
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Hey guys, Earlier I posted about dim lights and motor hesistating. I started to begin removing the alternator and found a wire disconnected, and another "object" that I wasnt familiar with. Is this a ground wire from the alternator and if so would it being disconnected cause the alternator not to work? Also what is the other "object" that is attached to a wire, I checked my manual but didn't find anything. I hate to buy a new alternator if this might be the problem.....any thoughts. Thanks, Randy
Last reply by sblake01, -
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In 1989 I built a PAW blower motor kit: chevy 350 with a B&M supercharger and a B&M superjection kit.[about 400 hp] This was installed in my Datsun 240 Z with a Nordskog kit. The tranny is a GM 350 turbo. Initially there were cooling problems which were eventually solved with a 3 core radiator, oil cooler, and accessory trans cooler. This combinationj has run well for nearly 20 yrs, but now it gains heat at highway speeds. I think I need to redo the cooling system. The question is, what to select. Motorsport lists several radiators: 3 core, 4 core, 4 core crossflow, and 4core cross flow aluminum. Should I keep the add on oil and trans coolers? Any advise …
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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Anyone have s30 blueprints so i can print them out/trace them to come up with paint schemes and things of the sort?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 4 replies
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ok, so i've taught myself pretty much everything i know about cars. which is more than some, less than others. i just got a '72 240z and the brakes are bad. they get to about 2 inches from the floor before they engage. i tried bleeding the brakes, except, i could only figure out where the master cylinder bleed screws were. i think it helped a little bit, but that could just be my imagination.. does anybody want to tell me where i would find the individual bleeder screws for each brake? im a little new to the whole car thing, this is my first restoration, so be easy on me please.
Last reply by beandip, -
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I've replaced the FI on my son's '76 280z and replaced it with dual SUs. Probelem is that when I removed the FI wiring harnes, I lost the fuel pump relay. I had been given some earlier advice regarding new wiring for the lower-pressure pump I put in, but when looking at the wiring schematics, it seems to me that the 4-pin connector under the left side of dash, which has connections for the fuel pump, ignition switch and ignition module, would be a better way to address this, perhaps with another relay. Now, to my point, are there any sharp folks who 1) could offer guidance on this approach, and 2) wouldn't mind checking the changes before I try them? Thanks in advance fo…
Last reply by pbatura, -
- 16 replies
- 3.1k views
After a year of driving, all at once my 240Z dies after I get her up to around 50 miles per hour:dead: It idles fine. It runs up through the gears a little low on power, but still runs. Then after I try to cruise in fourth gear,,,it dies:dead: It will start right back up, immediately. It will get me home at a lower speed. It will not run at a higher speed. I had just replaced the voltage regulator the night before this all started to happen. I wouldn't think this should be the problem. I can dump he clutch when it dies, and it starts back up. When I bought the car it had the problem of dying out. The owner had gone through many things/ He finally changed out t…
Last reply by obxtrainman, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
My passenger rattles very badly, it sounds like it could fly open at any moment. However, it shuts securely and can't be pushed open from the inside. I bought a pair of door bumpers to replace the two that had fallen out from each door. It actually seemed to make the problem worse. The weatherstripping is all there and looks okay. Is my latch in bad shape? Any ideas?
Last reply by 240ZX,
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