Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 1.3k views
I have a 74 260 that will start and run great for about a half hour then it will start sounding like its on 5 cylinders, after it sits for awhile it fires right up and goes great again for about half hour,then all over again.. Does anybody know what is happening, im very frustrated.. It has the original flat top carbs.
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Hello everyone, I will be swapping out my auto to a manual conversion here in a very short time, and have just a few questions. I have someone who has a 1974 260z pedal assembly that he can sell me. I was just wondering if this assembly would work for my 1973 240z. (this will be both the clutch pedal and brake pedal, seeing as from what i've read, the brake pedal for a MT is smaller then the AT.) I also have someone who can sell me a 1972 240z pedal assembly with the actual hard line from the MC to the SC. He on the other hand has been hard to get in touch with and i don't know if he'll come thru. He is very busy lately and hasn't returned my e-mails. Anyway, i was just …
Last reply by Arne, -
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Hi Can Anybody Tell Me Why My 260z Will Start And Run Excellant For 20 Min Or So And Then It Starts Sounding Like Its Running On 5 Cylinders. I Will Limp It Home And Then After It Sits For A While, Ill Go Back Out And It Fires Right Up And Sounds Normal, Then Ill Try It Again And Same Thing Runs Good For Awhile And Then Back To The 5 Cylinder Sound And Running Crappy.i Have All Original Carbs, That Seem To Run Excellant, Until The Car Is In Its 5 Cylinder Mode..
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 11 replies
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I've got another question for you guys here. I forget what this does, but I know that a couple hoses run off of it and not sure exactly where they go. If it's something to do with emissions, then I'll probably just leave it or take it off as all the emissions crap was taken off. I'm thinking about hooking those two hoses back up to it, but not sure where they would go and what the purpose of the "bottle" is for. Here's what I'm referring to.
Last reply by 76Datsun280z, -
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Hi, I need to know if a 280Z heater fan blower motor housing will fit in a 1971 240Z.I can find some in the local junk yard but I need to know if they fit...I'll be changing the fan motor for the Honda upgrade.
Last reply by DRBall, -
- 12 replies
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I'm a bit perplexed with my father in law's 240Z. We backed it out of the garage this morning for the first time since the fall, and hooked up the battery charger. The battery charged at about 2.7-3.0 amps for about a half hour so we tried to turn it over. The starter clicked repeatedly (like it does when your battery is too low to turn it over). Probably a bad battery, we thought. So we put the car on a boosting charger to try to get it started, and when the boost kicked in, it did the same thing. I bridged the posts on the solenoid with a screwdriver, and it only hummed and did not turn over. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated!
Last reply by KDMatt, -
- 4 replies
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Hey all, An issue I've run into a few times is my Z just dying at idle. Starts fine, runs fine at any RPM level, but if it sits at idle it just slowly dies. It will fire right back again after it dies. No hard sputtering or anything like that either. Just a slow quiet night-night if you will. My initial thoughts would say fuel pump. That's why I asked about the electric pump in the other thread. Any thoughts o' wise ones?
Last reply by DaveN, -
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Does anyone have step by step installation instructions and/or pictures for XR700 installation on a stock '71 240z? I have been to Crane's web site and have those instructions, but they are pretty vague. I've searched the archives but don't see any installation instructions, just opinions on whether or not to install this vs. petronix vs. ZX versions of EI. This is already purchased so it's going in...can always come out if it's ineffective. Thanks,
Last reply by MidLifeCrisiz, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
Hi, I have a leak in the front seal of the transmission on my 86 300Zx, and the transmisssion mount bracket is broken. I've been told that the transmission has to come out. Is this a difficult and expensive job? Would it be better to take it to a transmission shop? If anyone has any experience with this, I'd appreciate your help very much. It was rebuilt 80,000 miles ago, and is shifting well.
Last reply by Craig86Z, -
exhaust smell 1 2 3
by Ramses- 24 replies
- 6.9k views
Hey guys, Thanks for all your help on my previous posts. I am still trying to tackle the smell that I get only when I roll down the windows. This is what I have done thus far: Replaced all rubber...seals, grommets, all penetrations in cabin. I did a smoke test in the cab and after replacing the seals in the window channels, I have found not one leak in the cab. I took her out yesterday and when I got home, I smelled like exhaust. I have a couple of questions. How far out does the tail pipe need to extend from the rear bumper to help eliminate this problem? I have also read that I should adjust my SU's. Is this correct? Why should I adjust my su's if they are r…
Last reply by BuDavid, -
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i recently took off my charcoal canister thinking it would be fine, well it wasnt,..... well first off i cranked up the car to leave, drove fine for about a min. or so then when i hit about 2500 rpms it started jerking so i turned it around and came back to the shop,.. i then thought it was the differiential or the tranny but i cranked it up again and put it in neutral,...reved it up a little and every time it hit the 2500 range to 5000 it would be really bad like it is out of time or something,and it was smokeing really bad... soo... i then realised that one of the vacum lines running from the charcoal canister was to keep the engine in the right timeing,...soo i proceed…
Last reply by Cincy_280Z, -
- 8 replies
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I have a '73 240z with A/C and the previous owner hacked up the wiring to install a sound system, CB, and who knows what else. I am trying to remove the dash and reviewed EScanlon's article, the haynes manual, and FSM before starting. Well now i am stuck. My biggest problem right now is that i cannot get to the body and engine wiring connectors. On the passenger side, squeezed behind the dash, firewall, and evaporator are at least three connectors i cannot get too. One is green, one is blue, and one is white. Is there some secret to disconnect these things? I can touch it with a finger but no way can i grip it. I don't know how anyone could get the dash out in 20…
Last reply by Ramses,
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