Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 14 replies
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The body shop is putting the 1971 Fairlady Z (JDM 240Z) back together and don't have a clue about the rear hatch weatherstripping!!! Is there any weatherstripping actually put onto the rear hatch itself or is it all on the body? Is there a description or diagram somewhere I could look at? I'm afraid they are screwing it all up!!! HELP PLEASE!!! Thank you!
Last reply by Kerrigan, -
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I am the selection committee chair for the Cincinnati Concours for Muscle Cars and Asian Collectible Cars. I am looking for a concours condition (restored, factory correct) Series 1 for the show in June (June 11) in Cincinnati. This will be the second year for ACC cars in the show and last year we had a modified 260Z as well as Toyota's own 2000GT from the California Museum. I would really like to exhibit an original. Our website is www.ohioconcours.com. The show information and nomination forms are located there. If someone has a lead, let me know and I will follow up. Thanks in advance, Fred Jones fdjonesjr@aol.com President ZCCO
Last reply by Brown Bomber Z, -
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Has anyone used Dashboard Restorations to repair/restore their dash? They are in Washington and I am planning on sending my dash to them this fall. They also can do the center console. What do people think of the dash covers that you can purchase and glue over the top?
Last reply by Reddog929, -
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Not to terribly long ago, I started smelling gas after I parked the car. I poked around a little and quickly found gas on the PCV valve. By on, I mean you touch the valve and your finger becomes wet with gasoline. As far as I can tell, the only way gasoline could reach the valve would be via the Cold Start Valve. Thinking that the valve may be staying on longer than neccessary, I replaced the thermostat, checked the cleanliness of the sensors, and cleaned all the connections on the various thermostat mounted items (one was green with corrosion). Put everything back together, and drove 3.5 miles to work. I thought it best to check all my connections for leaks once I got …
Last reply by 76Datsun280z, -
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Hey folks, Just got my car back from paint and body...looks great, will be throwing up some photos in the open discussion very soon. However, the shop completley filled in the pre-cut holes where the side mirror goes. How will I know where the exact location is to drill new holes? What is the best procees for doing this...ie, I don't want to chip the paint. If anyone has any thoughts please let me know. Thanks, Randy
Last reply by hd240z, -
- 183 replies
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I'll start with being brief. I have owned a 1978 Datsun 810 for 26 years. It has, and still is, realiable, dependable and I still have faith but it has also had little brain warping idiosyncracies that even neither the dealers, car repair places, nor myself could understand -- costly, to say the least. Now it's bothering me because I cannot afford to take the chance of wasting money on someone telling me "It's fixed" then the problem arises again two days later. My future posts will explain some of the problems I've had and what eventually happened. Hopefully, my past problems might give someone an idea of what's going on with their car. Also, I hope to gain by someone gi…
Last reply by justaZcarguy, -
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hey all, my names matt and im brand new here. I own a 79 zx with a 302 Ford mill, full coilovers, diamond racing 15x8s, and a few other fancies... anywho my recent find was a 2way LSD from nismo. It came with the req'd stub axle, as you guys prob seen before. its the circlip style axle with, on the flange side, round flange, with three bolting spots to form a triangle. theres six holes in total three sets of two...alrite now were rollin:stupid: my axles of course have the u jointed axle stub, just straight to thhe u joint no flange. Maybe theyre 200sx style, i know some were circlip style(all lsd) im wonderin if there are people that have exp. with this conversion, i…
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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Well, my Z got smacked the other day when it was parked on the street. Luckily, the driver STOPPED and notified me. The damage isn't too bad, basically the driver side fender was hit from the front, and slid back into my door. So the fender and the headlight bucket need to be replaced, and my hood and door will need some paint. I went to the other guy's insurance for a claim, and they checked out my car in their garage. After doing an itemized report on the damages, they handed me a check for $2,200. The quoted part prices seemed pretty spot on, so I think it seems reasonable. Now, I also can drop the car off at any one of their approved body places, and say "fix it…
Last reply by ZCCOR#109, -
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Ok, So I am slowly getting my '71 240Z together. I bought it with the intake and carbs sitting in the hatch. I havent seen one of these cars together in person and I cant wait to get this running to drive it. I have a little question about the cooling circuit. On the drivers side there is a heater hose that splits into two parallel lines. One goes through the intake manifold and one kinda bypasses it. My question is, on the line the goes through the manifold, should there by some sort of a thermostat valve there? I dont think I want hot coolant going through there all the time. If there is a valve does anyone know the part number and where I could get one? Thanks,…
Last reply by beandip, -
- 10 replies
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I am a new to this and the search isn't that helpful. I want to say there should be a "NEWBIES READ HERE" in a tech section or "FAQ" about the z-cars for all the misconceptions a noobie might make. Maybe there is already one, but like I said, its very hard to get around. I would like to see the basics of how the motor works, mainly on how to get more power (newbie mistakes) and how to get use to the Carbs setups. I know squat about the carbs and the motor itself. From looking around the site, it looks hard to even make and all motor setup and proper tuning (carbs has no "brains", so what's so hard). Maybe its just me and my little knowledge about carbs and the motor…
Last reply by jdm_sai, -
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Hey all... When I turn the key in the 240, I just get a click and a draw on the AMP guage. Funny thing is, when I grab a screwdriver and jump the battery lead (on the starter) to the solinoid, it turns over with out any issues... I have not checked to see if I have 12 volts going to the starter, is there a relay near the kick panel on the passenger side? It seems that I hear a click from a relay near there. It just seems like in there was a solinoid issue, the screwdriver trick would not make a difference either. Thanks for the advice...
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
- 13 replies
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Just finishing up the final touches on the 78 when I ran into a problem installing the Toyota brakes. I had them plated and rebuilt. I always use DOT 4 brake fluids and assembled the brakes correctly. After installation, Bleeding went very easy, the pedal became stiff only when the car was off. When the vaccum assist came on with the engine, the pressure went to zero and pedal to the floor. At this point I realized it might be better to go with a slightly larger master cylinder. I then purchased a master cylinder made for a 1981 280zx. I installed the master cylinder and made progress. The pressure remained the same even with the vaccum assist on. But now the brakes feel …
Last reply by Mpower280z,
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