Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
-
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
Ok, so I am no dummy, I am actually pretty good at disagnosing problems on a car, but this one has me stumped... 1977 280Z New:battery, voltage regulator, starter, spark plugs, wires, dist cap, condenser, rotor Timed to 10º BTDC, vacuum line attached. When I first start in the morning, it fires right up, no issues. After about 10 mins, if I try to idle it likes to drop to 500 RPM and not come back. if I go from 0% throttle to anything over about 60% in one quick shot, it will bog HARD and usually die, unless I start pumping the throttle. If it rains, forget it. I will be lucky if I get her started. Voltage doesnt drop off, I think its a coolant temp sensor related iss…
Last reply by Jon Powell, -
-
- 19 replies
- 3.2k views
I know that this subject is here many times, I did the search, but I need a simple and clea answer, what are the advantages/disadvantages of Urethane bushings over the rubber ones? is the bushing kit from VB good to buy? coz shipping from them is easier than MSA for me.. thanx
Last reply by hls30.com, -
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
Need help! while driving my tack drops off to zero,engine stops running then comes right back! usually happens while cruising in 5th gear, can happen several times in a span of a few minutes most of times it does`nt happen at all.. the engine usually returns to life own it`s own or I just hit the key and it starts back up! it even happened while sitting at a redlight! car just stops running! but starts right back up with the turn of the key! i know it`s just a matter of time and I`m going to get stranded somewhere! what could be cause this speratic power loss???
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
Hey guys i was wondering what would cause me to not get power to the fuel pump? This is on a 78 280z... totally stock. I replaced the fuel pump, and still nothing. I'm getting pulse to the injectors, and im getting spark... just no power to the pump. Could it be one of the sensors on the motor?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 10 replies
- 1.8k views
I'm restoring a 260Z that my parents have had sitting in the garage for over 12 years. So far I have replaced the brake system and am rebuilding the carbureutors since one was seized, but I'm having trouble with the dash instrumentation. According to the wiring schematic I have they share the same ground so I was wondering if anyone knew where the ground locations were? My dad drove it through a "puddle" that submerged it up to the bottom of the windows so I'm hopeing this is the problem. Also any other suggestions are welcome, thanks.
Last reply by zpizzaman20, -
- 7 replies
- 5.7k views
Cant find the exact numbers but the tuning shop just did a test and got numbers like 110-120 with one even as low as 84 in a dry test, and about 120-140 wet. just had the motor rebuilt 5000 miles ago, and just had the head off for cam change and valve grind 100 miles ago. It is a high performance motor l28, p90 worked head, triple 45 webers, flat top pistons, medium cam (unsure of overlap), and the car makes about 180 bhp at the wheels. i really dont know whats happening, i suspect that it's rings because i just did a valve grind and its blowing a little blue smoke at idle, but then i had problems with the tensioner coming out and read that timing and a stretched chain c…
Last reply by Tommo560, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
:stupid: :stupid: i have a 76 280 fuel injected thats starts up and idols just fine...however after getting to running temperature, it will hesitate REALLY BAD (almost like a stall) then pick back up again and continue down the road till the next time. it never does it on idol or decelaration...only when accelorating. and it wont do it all the time...its very spiratic. its got new plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor, and fuel pump. i just bought the car so i cant tell u much more than that..the fuel pump did have a small leak coming out the bottom, but i tightend up everything and it seemed to be ok for about a week...now its doing the same thing again...but with no lea…
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
- 0 replies
- 935 views
I'm looking for the U-Shaped rod on passenger side door that is near the door cylinder. Car was broken into and that U shaped rod that's part of the door locking cylinder was taken. Need to find a replacement part for my mechanic. Thanks much, Eric
Last reply by EricR, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
After getting advice from you guys (and girls) last time, I got my Zed running again. It's a 260Z 2+2, with an L28 that has L20 EFI. Since then, I had to replace the thermostat, which shouldn't have been an issue. Car didn't want to start, so pulled all the temp sensors out and cleaned all the contacts (even pulled all the bolts out of the housing and cleaned them, to make sure of a good contact on the block). After cleaning everything, the car started up straight away, so I letit run for 5 minutes or so and turned it off. That was 3 weeks ago, and the damn thing hasn't started since. It cranks over fine, it's got heaps of spark. Initially it'll crank for as long as norma…
Last reply by gator, -
- 13 replies
- 3.3k views
Ok I have the york dealer installed A/C system. Was wondering my receiver has in and out on the barbed tube ends. What way do I place it. Does the inside face the condencer and the outside face the evaporator or Does it go the other way around? The compresor pushes into the condencer and then out to the drier then out to the expanstion valve then into the evaporator then back to the compressor. Is this right? Another quick question. What would cause the system to hold to much presure? Like 100PSI instead of 25 to 30 PSI. untitled.bmp
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 0 replies
- 1.1k views
anyone no the gap for the inductor coil that took place of the points on a 1978 280z 4 speed trans. the car is jumping and jerking at 20 to 25 mph. runs great at high speed and starts good.changed plugs distrubtor cap roter button have changed vacumn hoses that were bad,same problem. if anybody can help please let me know what to do. thanks eric
Last reply by hummer, -
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
The MSA electronic fuel pump I bought to solve vapor lock problems in Wyoming in 1990 has finally given up the ghost...I think. I used to hear it throbbing away when I switched the ignition on and I don't hear that anymore and the car obviously is idle and won't run. I'm assuming that the pump is toast or the harness piece the power wire was run off of is toast. I bought the pump from MSA in '91 and wanted to replace it faster than waiting for MSA to send a new one. What can I tell the parts guy at the desk at O'Reilly or NAPA in terms of finding a suitable replacement?
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
