Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
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I'm restoring a 260Z that my parents have had sitting in the garage for over 12 years. So far I have replaced the brake system and am rebuilding the carbureutors since one was seized, but I'm having trouble with the dash instrumentation. According to the wiring schematic I have they share the same ground so I was wondering if anyone knew where the ground locations were? My dad drove it through a "puddle" that submerged it up to the bottom of the windows so I'm hopeing this is the problem. Also any other suggestions are welcome, thanks.
Last reply by zpizzaman20, -
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Cant find the exact numbers but the tuning shop just did a test and got numbers like 110-120 with one even as low as 84 in a dry test, and about 120-140 wet. just had the motor rebuilt 5000 miles ago, and just had the head off for cam change and valve grind 100 miles ago. It is a high performance motor l28, p90 worked head, triple 45 webers, flat top pistons, medium cam (unsure of overlap), and the car makes about 180 bhp at the wheels. i really dont know whats happening, i suspect that it's rings because i just did a valve grind and its blowing a little blue smoke at idle, but then i had problems with the tensioner coming out and read that timing and a stretched chain c…
Last reply by Tommo560, -
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:stupid: :stupid: i have a 76 280 fuel injected thats starts up and idols just fine...however after getting to running temperature, it will hesitate REALLY BAD (almost like a stall) then pick back up again and continue down the road till the next time. it never does it on idol or decelaration...only when accelorating. and it wont do it all the time...its very spiratic. its got new plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor, and fuel pump. i just bought the car so i cant tell u much more than that..the fuel pump did have a small leak coming out the bottom, but i tightend up everything and it seemed to be ok for about a week...now its doing the same thing again...but with no lea…
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
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I'm looking for the U-Shaped rod on passenger side door that is near the door cylinder. Car was broken into and that U shaped rod that's part of the door locking cylinder was taken. Need to find a replacement part for my mechanic. Thanks much, Eric
Last reply by EricR, -
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After getting advice from you guys (and girls) last time, I got my Zed running again. It's a 260Z 2+2, with an L28 that has L20 EFI. Since then, I had to replace the thermostat, which shouldn't have been an issue. Car didn't want to start, so pulled all the temp sensors out and cleaned all the contacts (even pulled all the bolts out of the housing and cleaned them, to make sure of a good contact on the block). After cleaning everything, the car started up straight away, so I letit run for 5 minutes or so and turned it off. That was 3 weeks ago, and the damn thing hasn't started since. It cranks over fine, it's got heaps of spark. Initially it'll crank for as long as norma…
Last reply by gator, -
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Ok I have the york dealer installed A/C system. Was wondering my receiver has in and out on the barbed tube ends. What way do I place it. Does the inside face the condencer and the outside face the evaporator or Does it go the other way around? The compresor pushes into the condencer and then out to the drier then out to the expanstion valve then into the evaporator then back to the compressor. Is this right? Another quick question. What would cause the system to hold to much presure? Like 100PSI instead of 25 to 30 PSI. untitled.bmp
Last reply by sblake01, -
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anyone no the gap for the inductor coil that took place of the points on a 1978 280z 4 speed trans. the car is jumping and jerking at 20 to 25 mph. runs great at high speed and starts good.changed plugs distrubtor cap roter button have changed vacumn hoses that were bad,same problem. if anybody can help please let me know what to do. thanks eric
Last reply by hummer, -
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The MSA electronic fuel pump I bought to solve vapor lock problems in Wyoming in 1990 has finally given up the ghost...I think. I used to hear it throbbing away when I switched the ignition on and I don't hear that anymore and the car obviously is idle and won't run. I'm assuming that the pump is toast or the harness piece the power wire was run off of is toast. I bought the pump from MSA in '91 and wanted to replace it faster than waiting for MSA to send a new one. What can I tell the parts guy at the desk at O'Reilly or NAPA in terms of finding a suitable replacement?
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs, -
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I have a 280Z 1978 stock. Three questions: What octane of gas shoudl I be using? What was the original horsepower of the engine?? Where can I buy parts that are Z unique? Regards WIDGET
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 9 replies
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Ok, I'm in the middle of this wonderful project :mad: and I am having a bastard of a time trying to get the knuckle arm separated from the lower ball joint. any help is much appreciated
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
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I have a none working temp gauge in my 73 240. I have tried to test is and either the gauge is bad of the wiring is bad. What is the easiest way to remove the gauge? From the Haynes manual it appears that are a couple of nuts that hold it on from the backside. Do the gauges come out from the front of back of the dash? Also, can you really get to these gauges from the glove box or do you need hands the size of a 5yr old?Once the gauges is out I hope to do a continuity test on the wiring. Tx, Bill
Last reply by wfl_colorado, -
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The heating/cooling fan on my '71 isn't working and I need it to pass a safety inspection (defroster must work to pass). I checked the solid blue wire idicated by a decent wiring diagram, and I checked the 20A fuse in that line. It worked just fine until I had a stereo put in, so it must be something simple. Any suggestions?
Last reply by naviathan,
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