Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 24 replies
- 4.8k views
well i finaly got the injector hoses replaced... all 12 of them... that was a serious pain. now the car wont start, will crank over but dies right away does not respond if i give it gas. i understand car problems are hard to fix w. out checking out the car but can any one give me some ideas as to where to start? maby a bunch of stuff to rule out? any and all help welcomed -Jon p.s. its a 77 280z fuel injected
Last reply by littlebuddy61, -
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My 280 dies
by MC75Z- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
about 4 months ago my 75 280 started to die occasionally. the first time it was on the freeway and it just suddenly died. as i coasted over to the right i put it in nuetral and it started right up. this continued on occasionally on or off the freeway. it always started right up. sometimes on the freeway if left in gear it would it would start on its own it seemed like it was out of gas but would happen immediatly with no sputering. it dies all of the time now . i have run a hot wire from the bat to the coil. but didn't help. i tried a different trans unit. not hearing the fuel pump operate every time when turned to on i unhooked the line before the filter and nothing came…
Last reply by naviathan, -
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
Well I just got my 1978 280Z automatic yesterday and I decided that I would change the Dist cap and rotor. The car was idling ok but a little rough. I drove it 150 miles on highway to bring it to its new home and it ran fine. Anyways, I changed the dist cap and rotor and tried to be careful to put the correct plug wire on the correct dist connector. I did not take pic of it first.....big mistake because I am not sure if I did get the plugs wires on the right connection on the dist after all. I have checked the wires for correct sequence of firing order and they are correct. The question is on orientation. Can someone take a pic of their dist and send it to me at widget777…
Last reply by widget777, -
- 3 replies
- 1.8k views
I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on tuning and rebuilding the carbs on my L-28. I'm trying to find a link or website with detailed instructions on rebuilding the triples. Also does anyone know a good source to buy rebuild kits for these carbs.
Last reply by 997TT, -
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
Hey everybody Over the last couple of months my 75 280Z has gotten harder to start weather the engine is cold or warm. When it is cold it seems to be cranking for longer than usual and then sputters for a few seconds then begins to run normally, this will only happen when i hold the gas pedal down. If i dont give it any gas it will just sputter and die. Sometimes also when the car is warm, i will start it and it will idle at about 400 rpm and i have to rev it up for about 10 seconds and let off the gas and it will begin to idle normally. Ive ran injector cleaner through 2 or 3 times, it was recently tuned up, I pulled a plug and it looks to be running clean, and i put in…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
While driving and taking the car out of gear the tach or idle will drop to around 500rpm and go back up to normal. also when I shut the car off and start it right back up it will do that same thing about five times and then idle fine until I give it gas and let go it will drop to 500 rpm's. Help!
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
- 13 replies
- 2k views
Anyone have a good source for radiators? I pulled the one out of my 73 and it appears it needs more than I thought. The local guy is telling me it might be between 300-400 to repair it. That seems sort of high to me. Tx, Bill
Last reply by sakijo, -
- 18 replies
- 3.8k views
I have a 73 240z, my tachometer does not work, i have checked all the wires around the ignition coil, i have a spare tach i do not know if it works though, but i tested it directly on the coil and could not get it to move at all, i do not know which wire i should be looking for on the coil it seems as though there are more than the 2 that the manual idicates, help would be awsome, thanks.
Last reply by Skotty, -
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi all Now after i put my Z back on the road it is running like a POS! Stock everything L26 Auto. Me(apprentice mechanic) and my Dad(Mechanic) have been trying to tune/sort this problem out all last weekend! Down low its pretty good, maybe a little rough but once it reaches 4k?(my tacho doesnt work) it will backfire and die and splutter. Sitting at 100kmh it is a struggle in increase revvs. It surges and carries on like above.(very annoying when comodores are screaming past you!) What ive done is... Tuned carbies as well as i can tappets timing new BOSCH plugs (i know bosch plugs are $^!#) new leads new dizzy cap/button and points newish coil new fuel fil…
Last reply by datto_240z, -
- 1 reply
- 885 views
I have checked out a bunch of wrecking yards in the bay area and can't find any 240/260z's to take the rear strut from. I am not talking about the strut insert. I want the whole hub piece that holds the strut insert. Let me know if you have one or know where to get one. Thanks.
Last reply by joefarnarkler, -
- 7 replies
- 4.8k views
I am a neophyte regarding Z engines. Do most Z engines use solid or hydraulic valve lifters? I have driven 3 Z cars in my search for a good Z car and all have had a lot of valve tappet noise. Is this normal or do the valves need to be adjusted (if they are solid lifters)?? Would they need adjustment if they were hydraulic lifters? Thanks Widget777@centurytel.net
Last reply by jmortensen, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I have a little problem, I bought some used springs hoping to cure my rear end squat problem. I can figure out which of these springs are front and which are rear. They all look exactly the same. Comparing them to my front springs they are all different. I think they are pretty simular to my rear springs. Are their any markings on the spring to identify it as front or rear? I also think that I overpacked my front wheel bearings, the rotor is pretty difficult to turn in comparison to how it previously was. Would this make sense?
Last reply by joefarnarkler,
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