Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
Hey everybody Over the last couple of months my 75 280Z has gotten harder to start weather the engine is cold or warm. When it is cold it seems to be cranking for longer than usual and then sputters for a few seconds then begins to run normally, this will only happen when i hold the gas pedal down. If i dont give it any gas it will just sputter and die. Sometimes also when the car is warm, i will start it and it will idle at about 400 rpm and i have to rev it up for about 10 seconds and let off the gas and it will begin to idle normally. Ive ran injector cleaner through 2 or 3 times, it was recently tuned up, I pulled a plug and it looks to be running clean, and i put in…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 7 replies
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While driving and taking the car out of gear the tach or idle will drop to around 500rpm and go back up to normal. also when I shut the car off and start it right back up it will do that same thing about five times and then idle fine until I give it gas and let go it will drop to 500 rpm's. Help!
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
- 13 replies
- 2k views
Anyone have a good source for radiators? I pulled the one out of my 73 and it appears it needs more than I thought. The local guy is telling me it might be between 300-400 to repair it. That seems sort of high to me. Tx, Bill
Last reply by sakijo, -
- 18 replies
- 3.7k views
I have a 73 240z, my tachometer does not work, i have checked all the wires around the ignition coil, i have a spare tach i do not know if it works though, but i tested it directly on the coil and could not get it to move at all, i do not know which wire i should be looking for on the coil it seems as though there are more than the 2 that the manual idicates, help would be awsome, thanks.
Last reply by Skotty, -
- 8 replies
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Hi all Now after i put my Z back on the road it is running like a POS! Stock everything L26 Auto. Me(apprentice mechanic) and my Dad(Mechanic) have been trying to tune/sort this problem out all last weekend! Down low its pretty good, maybe a little rough but once it reaches 4k?(my tacho doesnt work) it will backfire and die and splutter. Sitting at 100kmh it is a struggle in increase revvs. It surges and carries on like above.(very annoying when comodores are screaming past you!) What ive done is... Tuned carbies as well as i can tappets timing new BOSCH plugs (i know bosch plugs are $^!#) new leads new dizzy cap/button and points newish coil new fuel fil…
Last reply by datto_240z, -
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- 870 views
I have checked out a bunch of wrecking yards in the bay area and can't find any 240/260z's to take the rear strut from. I am not talking about the strut insert. I want the whole hub piece that holds the strut insert. Let me know if you have one or know where to get one. Thanks.
Last reply by joefarnarkler, -
- 7 replies
- 4.7k views
I am a neophyte regarding Z engines. Do most Z engines use solid or hydraulic valve lifters? I have driven 3 Z cars in my search for a good Z car and all have had a lot of valve tappet noise. Is this normal or do the valves need to be adjusted (if they are solid lifters)?? Would they need adjustment if they were hydraulic lifters? Thanks Widget777@centurytel.net
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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I have a little problem, I bought some used springs hoping to cure my rear end squat problem. I can figure out which of these springs are front and which are rear. They all look exactly the same. Comparing them to my front springs they are all different. I think they are pretty simular to my rear springs. Are their any markings on the spring to identify it as front or rear? I also think that I overpacked my front wheel bearings, the rotor is pretty difficult to turn in comparison to how it previously was. Would this make sense?
Last reply by joefarnarkler, -
i am putting a head together to replace the one that has gone bad on my l28. the e88 on it has a bad valve in #6. the motor has flat top pistons and su's on it. i am putting a n42 on it which i have polished the intake and exhaust ports. the e88 has a cam with green paint between the intake and exhaust lobes and the n42 has red paint. what is the difference and which would be better for what i have going. mc75z
Last reply by Ed, -
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- 1.6k views
So on Friday i decided to tackly my suspension finally. The plan was new polygraphite bushings from PST, struts, wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends and probably something I am forgetting. I started with the rear on Friday. The drivers pivot pin was a pain, but finally came out once I got angry enough. The passengers side wan't as fun. I started with the classic hammer. IT FAILED I got a bigger hammer, 5lb sledge IT FAILED I got a bigger hammer, 20lb sledge It FAILED I cut the pin off the control arm and maxed out a 20 ton press and heated IT FAILED Time to think. . . ouch . . . Nothing to lose. . . Drill the pin out. My machinist friend and I set it up…
Last reply by zack_280, -
- 2 replies
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I found a new way to remove the rear control arm bushings. Like other ways: Torch the bushings to remove the inner sleeve. Then use a 1" drill to remove the rubber. Instead of using a hack saw to cut the pressed in sleeve, try this. Use a dremal with a cutt-off disk on it. I actually stack 3-4 cut-off disks. Run the dremal in and out of the sleeve slowly grinding away at the length of the sleeve in one area. You may say "but what if I grind through then I am screwed." If you go slowly enough and don't stay in one area for too long you wont have a problem. When it starts to get thin slow down and watch the sleeve where you are grinding. You are looking for it to…
Last reply by ncz, -
- 11 replies
- 3k views
hi people, I was shocked when I opened the Victoria britihs's web site when i found out that there is no Z parts no more?? they are not selling these parts now or what happened to them? it was really good site with zcarparts, so the best spare parts site is motorsport now?:disappoin
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs,
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