Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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Where to start? 1 2
by onuthin- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
Okay guys I really need some expert help on my big project.I started out by buying a finished 70 model Z. That turned out to be not as much fun because it didn't need anything so I made up stuff to do to it.Then I bought another 70 model that needed a lot of work.Great,Now I needed parts for it so I bought another Z. It was better than the parts car so I was going to fix up both of them.Now I need another parts car.After several more cars I purchased 000913. I now have more cars than I can use but that don't mean I don't like all of them.My problem now is I wan't to completely restore 913.I have read as many threads and post as I could find and I find so many different wa…
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
all lights work on my car besides the normal tail lights. the brake lights and signals work and reverse light. but the tail lights wont come on when i turn on the lights. the fuses are good and i changed both the bulbs and they still wont light up. anyone know where i can check next please let me know. thanks
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 5 replies
- 2.9k views
I'm getting ready to reassemble my '80 L28 block. I had the crank ground .010 undersize and ordered bearings to match. However, when I set the crank in the block the middle journal (#4) that has the special bearing for dealing with thrust is so tight that even before I put the caps on, I can't turn the crank by hand. My suspicion is that the thrust surface of the center bearing is also expecting the crank's surface to have been ground .010, and that the crank shop didn't grind that surface. I called the parts house but they were of no use to tell me if the bearing expects the thrust surface to be ground like the main journal surface. And the shop is closed (Saturday).…
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Hey Z people! The Crank turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE right? and if thats the case then the timing marks on the crank pully from left to right would be 0,5,10,15,20. So... the timing pointer will hit the left hand mark first (0 degrees). Just to be clear the 0 degree would be in the 8 o-clock position, 5 degrees would be 9 o-clock, 10 would be 10 o-clock and so on and so on. so the pointer would hit the 8 o-clock(0 degree) timing mark first... NOT the 12 o-clock (20 degree) mark. and isn't 17 degrees of advance the recomeneded timing? Rock on Z people!:stupid:
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
- 19 replies
- 2.1k views
first of all i have very little mecanical expericance (ok i lie, i dont have much at all). i have a 280z that is stock. wanted a little more prefomance so i installed headers. i started to install headers and put everything back went to start the car. this ridiculous poping noise at idle. i pressed the gas and it dies completely. that was yesterday and now today it wont even idle. i did remove all the intake, injectors and fuel rail to install the headers. maybe i didnt do something right when putting everything back? it wont even idle anymore and the sound coming out of the exhaust is this stupid poping noise. help please! id like to use the car tommrow.
Last reply by bemmerguy714, -
- 15 replies
- 2.5k views
I have been putting together my car and it is scheduled to go the the mechanics tomorrow. I was adjusting the hood and when I finally thought I got everything alightned right I went ahead and pushed it shut. Well now it wont' open up!!!!! When I push down on the hood it doesn't go down at all or move so it can release so I can reach the hood release latch. What the hell can I do. I am am about ready to start taking a damn hammer to this thing! :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth : Please help!
Last reply by kenz240z, -
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
Ones in Motorsport and "British" catalogues go for over $100. Ones on Ebay are rediculously cheap even after shipping. Is quality or design that much different on Ebay ones? Would appreciate any comments on experiences with either Motorsport, etc. or the Ebay ones. Thanks guys, Mark
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 10 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi everybody, I bought a 77 280Z 4 speed with all original equipment two years ago. The only things new are the fuel injectors and new clutch that were installed just before I bought it. The car ran fine the first summer I owned it, then it sat over the winter of 2005 without being started and it didn't have very much gas in the tank. I've tried to start the car numerous times with a new battery since the weather has warmed up, but with no success. She turns really strong, and I put fresh gas in the tank (no dry gas yet) but it still won't start. I even checked the distributor, all is clean and dry, no moisture. I thought maybe the gas lines were frozen because there was…
Last reply by 280z1975, -
- 7 replies
- 1.3k views
Hello, i am a new member looking forward to getting a datsun (either 240z or 280Z, I guess 280z is newer and a little bigger then then 240z, but i guess there is no real difference (is anyone of the two "better" then the other?) between the two) I've searched alot but couldnt find an answer to my following question. What should you look for when buying a datsun? I want something to be daily driven. I am willing to fix it up, but looking for not as much work to start with... please post your tips on buying a 240z/280z thanks!
Last reply by beezee, -
Chasing down heater probs. Door mode acuator holds vacuum when using a pump( but very hard to push opening it by hand)and all new lines,newer water valve,thermostat. manifold vac pressure is good but when running the mode acuator does not operate and only cold air at panel vent of course. Could it be the solonoids not opening or just a bad acuator ? The solonoid closer to the firewall has continuity . The other shows 12v with the key on but no continuity with key off. I don't know what else to check . 1977 coup. Thanks
Last reply by mriz, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
I need to know how far the brake pedal should be traveling. I've been getting ready to take the Z out into the spring-time weather during the past week or so, and so I took an opportunity, as I'm sure we all have done at one point or another, to sit in the driver's seat and just visualize... Anyway, for one reason or another I ended up depressing both the clutch and brake pedals. The clutch will go to the floor... but the brake pedal seems oddly stiff. It seems like I can only push it down a few inches, and I can't tell if this is normal or not. I remember the Z having very "tight" brakes in comparison to both of my parents' cars (especially my mother's Honda, which feels…
Last reply by KDMatt, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I just rebuilt my z engine. I have a 77 but the engine came out of a 78. I am trying to figure out the wiring diagram I cant remember where the wires are that go to the Distributor? Any one that can help would be very thankful.
Last reply by Armypilot,
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