Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 23 replies
- 3.4k views
Having some serious problems with the fit of the aftermarket left front fender on my '72 240. Does anyone have a good used original one from a 240, 260 or 280 they would be willing to sell to me for a reasonable price? I would only be interested in a factory original and not an aftermarket fender. Thanks!
Last reply by lonetreesteve, -
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- 38 replies
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I checked the oil in my car the other day and found out that there is gas in the oil and the oil is very thin:mad: . I have a fuel injected Z and just rebuilt it 2000 miles ago. What would cause this and should I change the bearings again. I am leaning towards the injectors but need to know if I have to take the engine out again:paranoid: HELP
Last reply by LanceM, -
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
I just got a 1979 280zx, the body is really great but the right fender is junk... plus i am looking for the whole inside. like seats, dash, and molding. I am also wondering if the 1979 ever came out with a double sun roof. Mine has one and i am thinking it is an after market, but unsure. I haven’t done my reading on it yet. any help would be great. Thanks Travis
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 31 replies
- 4k views
After dissasembling and reassembling my fuel injection system ( for cleaning and replacing 1 fuel injector) i couldnt get it started. So i rechecked ALL of my connections and vaccum hoses. I cranked it for like 5-10 mins overall now but still nuthin! I checked the lines for gas and its definantly getting clean healthy gas, but i pulled the plugs to see if there was any fuel on em and only 1 cylinder looked wet. I would think after this much cranking and flooding of the engine there would be some gas on the plugsbut nooo... Anyways i went back and checked my connections for lets see... the 6th time? and everything seems good to go.. is there something im missing? what s…
Last reply by bemmerguy714, -
- 5 replies
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Alright, i have the How to Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun book and im following the directions it says to properly time your oilpump/distributor. Well anyway, when i have the engine at TDC and the oil shaft at 11:25 with the offset on the face of the motor... the actual distributor arm is facing the wrong direction. Instead of facing the number one point on the distributor, its just past the #6 point going towards 2. Is there something that i may have messed up? I even tried lining the shaft so that when the engine is TDC the distributor is facing the number 1 point.
Last reply by oinojo, -
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On my way back to the junk yard with tools to pull a 5-speed from an 6/81 built ZX, the rear end has drive axles that bolt directly to the "pumkin", I thought they all still had flanges and bolts at both ends, did I dream this? Does it mean anything or is it just an R200 that was stock on all cars? Thought about pulling it also for the lower gearing but they want "extra" money for the independent rear end and even more for the axles. Mike
Last reply by LanceM, -
- 2 replies
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question being 1971 datsun 240z with the 280zx efi motor and after market computer is it possible to fit the transmitter(fuel float sender in tank) in the wrong way as my fuel gauge reads empty when full and full when empty at least it is accurate but reads back to front i could just pull it out and check but i thought i would ask the question first thank you for any response robert
Last reply by wedgey, -
- 12 replies
- 1.5k views
I am trying to get my spedometer gauge out of my dash. All other gauges were pretty simple. The spedometer has really kicked my arse. I now have everything un-plugged but the cable that runs to the tacometer. How does that come off? Of course I will be asking for advise this weekend on how to put all of these gauges bak in. Thanks
Last reply by MarkDixon, -
- 11 replies
- 2k views
i was finishing up my engine build when i noticed my rear (6 cylinder) cam tower had a shim on it. I didnt notice it until i started on the exhaust valve of the 6th cylinder. The pivot point for the rocker arm was way higher than the others. I also noticed the lash pad was different color than the others. As of now i have the valve lash on that one valve correct but im worried that if i ran the car i would have BIG issues. Now if i were to remove the shim, would adjusting the lash pad be back to normal like the others. And also would i ruin my headgasket by taking out that one head bolt in the rear in order to remove the cam tower shim?
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
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My daughters 280 is suddenly running very rich. Changed out air flow meter and problem still present. Any ideas would be appreciated, otherwise its off to nissan.
Last reply by Trudge, -
- 2 replies
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My RPM's will just die. I am driving and then stop at a stop sign and the RPM's will dip down to 0, then rev back up to normal idle. This does not happen every time, however. And sometimes the car will not start after being driven, but other times there is no problem. I am thinking this is electrical, but possibly carbs? I have replaced the points, plugs (not NGK plugs, but Champion-shitty), the rotor and cap. Could the coil be going out, or does it simply die when it goes bad? From the look of my plugs, it seems the carbs are running rich. Any thoughts on the above, thanks...
Last reply by Zmefeelme, -
- 8 replies
- 4.3k views
I have a 1971 240Z and it always smell like gas fumes. Any word on how I can solve this problem. ThanksROFL
Last reply by =Enigma=,
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