Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
hey folks: here's the story (updated) thanks all of you for your help so far. but im still stuck after fixing a few things. replaced ALT replaced Voltage Regulator Replaced Fuseable Links checked continuity on F & N wires in the plug at the ALT. wires are good if i connect a wire from the vertical part of the ALT to the battery, i get 13-16 volts showing on a Voltage Meter. so i know the ALT is good. ---------------- Q:Is there anyway to "check" the VR? Q:The Girlfriend says/susp[ects that since the new battery has been used for the past week or so to try and start teh car repeadely, sometimes with the help of a booster pack, perhaps the batt needs to be rechar…
Last reply by jszarecki, -
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someone please correct me if im wrong but the 1974 260z is the same body as a 1971 240z correct, the only differences being the taillights and dashboard correct?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 1 reply
- 992 views
Hey, I got a 1980 280ZX about 5 years ago, and when I first got it, the transmission broke, so i took it to Aamco(mistake number 1) and they fixed it, and about 4 years later it broke again... Whats happening is that when I drive it a little bit hard or if I drive it normal for about 3 weeks, I will turn the car off, leaving it in first gear. Then when I start the car, I put it in Reverse, but the transmission gets stuck on the first gear rail. So Reverse locks up the tranny, won't let me go anywhere, and stalls the car. From there on out, neutral is first gear. The only way to fix the problem it seems is to pull out the transmission, and as soon as the mechanics get it …
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
- 12 replies
- 2k views
ok, replaced batt/alt/voltage regulator. car will start, but will die after 2 minutes after watching voltage at alt or bat drop from 12.6 to under 10. so whats causing the low readings from the alt or batt?
Last reply by Nacks, -
- 2 replies
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Hi, anyone knows if there is some difference between the 280Z Coupe shocks and the 280Z 2+2 shocks? I will buy the set, but thats anounce only for 280Z coupe. BTW, which brand and model is best for my 280Z 2+2?? Thanks from Mexico
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 39 replies
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Does anyone know how to test the auxillary air valve for operation. I am having problems with the idle at warm up, and I think that might be my cause. My symtems are when I start it it will idle but when I step on the gas it goes up and when I let go it will act like it is going to die. This is only during warm up.
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
- 8 replies
- 3.6k views
I have a 71' 240z and I replaced my front rotors & bearings. After done, the dust cap on the passenger wheel went on fine. The dust cap for the driver wheel does not. When I try to push the cap on, it feels like there is a pocket of air traped in the hub assy. that is creating resistance. I can use a hammer and tap it on, but after driving around the block, it pops back off. Anyone have this happen?
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 33 replies
- 4.2k views
hey fans, after my stereo got stolen, i now have no fuel gague, tach or dash lights. The fuel gage was blown. everytime i replace it it blows as soon as i turn teh ignition to on. no clue on the tach lights thing... any clues?
Last reply by jszarecki, -
- 7 replies
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I have a '74 260Z (pre-fuel injection 280s), and sometimes when the engine gets warm, it will start to idle fast when I come to a stop light. To remedy the problem (until I come to a stop again) I can pull on the choke and then turn it off, and for whatever reason, the car will return to a normal idle. I got work done on the car about 1000 miles ago, and they said that one of the accelerator pedal hinges was worn out/installed incorrectly, so they drilled a new hole and so now I would get the full extent of the acceleration range. So yeah, that worked for about a week, and now it feels like it did before. Have any of you guys had this problem before? And if so, might y…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 6 replies
- 2.7k views
'80 280ZX Seems to be flooding real bad. It runs fine when it runs and then just cuts off like its an electrical problem. When I try to restart it, its so flooded, it wont start. I removed the fuel pump relay to prevent it from running, then it will crank eventually. I checked the plugs, they're firing. What I did notice is that the fuel injectors are firing erratically. I can hear them firing when the car is not running and the key is on! I did a search on this site and found an article about the "AFM" not sending the right signal to the ECU. What is thhe AFM? I noticed one thing that might have something to do with the problem. The dropping resistor/sensor for the inj…
Last reply by rcperez123, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
Question: i recently replaced my ALT and BATT. Measured voltage output from pos. term of ALT to NEG term off BATT: 11.36/38 this is bad right? it shoudl be about 14 or so, if im not mistaken. Also measured teh neg to pos term of bat: 12.87 this was with the car at idle after running it for about 3-5 minutes. but had to shut car off to opne hatch, than restarted the car. does this make a differeance? since this is a brand new alternator what is the issue? -Bad Ground? -Bad Positive connection? -is it possible i somehow polorized the alternator with all those wires floating around. (i did connect/install it with no battery in the car, but after battery install i might have …
Last reply by jszarecki, -
- 0 replies
- 994 views
I have a 75' 260z,and the fuel pump will not power on,I have put direct power to the pump and it works,what can be the problem.Why aren't I getting power to the pump(all the fuses are good)is there something I am missing?Please help!
Last reply by rcperez123,
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