Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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I just recently bought an aftermarket JSK fuel rail. I was wondering if anyone has installed these fuel rails and where they located the fuel pressure regulator and what kinds of things did they use to mount it, it has bolts for mounting it to the stock location but no hardware for mounting it. Is there a way that someone could send me some pics of how they did these two things so I can get some kind of idea on what to do. Thanks in advance. I probably should have posted this in fuel injection but I am a nerd
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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- 12 replies
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Well I took my cylinder head in yesterday and they called me back saying it was cracked . If anyone knows where to get a rebuilt cylinder head or one that doesnt have a camshaft in it because I already bought one before I took it in, please let me know. I need an N-42 with the round ports. Thanks
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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I re-built my front suspension on my 1970 240Z. I used a set of front springs that were on my 1971 240Z. I blasted and painted them. When I installed them, the front ride height was much higher! Also the camber is way off. Top of tire leaned out (popsitive camber I belive). Before installing the springs, I compared the heights. The old vs. new were within 1/4 of a inch. After scratching my head, I belive these front springs may be too stiff and holding the front of the car too high? I just measured the coil diameter. The old spings are about 0.425" wire diameter. The "too high" springs are about 0.455-0.460" diameter. I am going to install the old springs to…
Last reply by zguitar71, -
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guys I'm lost here, I joined the PCV valve with the block under the intake manifold, sice then that engine die under 1000RPM and very strong vacum pressure in the engine (flet and heared when openning the upper valve cover cap) and at that time also dies even on 1000RPM! I guess that I have a mixed up hoses coz the 1978 owners manual shows that there s a hose that goes from the valve cover to the rubber between the flowmeter and the throttle body, but on my Z the hose goes to a junction which leads to the throttle body just after the throttle! does anyone have a diagram for the hosing system? or a picture of an original "1977" z engine?? thank you
Last reply by sblake01, -
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so i have an electric in-line fuel pump, im going to be swapping this motor into another Z. "the book" doesnt explain this procedure, since the "L" series came with a mechanical pump. help me! also, does anyone know any "do's and dont's" for swapping a L28(carb'd) into a 240z chassis? i know the basics,but every swap is different. any info will be helpful.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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So, my car made it from Long Island up to Syracuse with no problems at all. On the way home she started to buck, hesitate and backfire, sometimes very badly. I cannot figure out what is happening but I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned both carbs (‘72 SU’s) as best as I could. I recently replaced my water pump, radiator and it seems that the cooling system is working fine. The problem seems to be heat related as it will start and run fine when cool but as soon as it starts to heat up it starts to act like it is not getting fuel. It will sputter and backfire and eventually stall. If I let it cool it will go just fine again until it gets warm. Again these are 72 carb…
Last reply by boostedz, -
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Today was a fun day. I went to my Z-parts guy to get a used wiper motor and new linkage. I guess I installed the linkage to the motor the wrong way because the blades are pointing straight up, not down like they are supposed to. I hope all I have to do is move the arms down and remount them to the motor. Any suggestions? Thanks..
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Need alittle help i just bought another '72 240z it has been sitting for 20 year in a garage. it turns over very well, i changed all the fluids, it is getting gas but no spark. i pulled the coil wire off and there is no spark coming from the coil to the distributer what does everyone think i haven't had time to to get a voltometer and check to see if power is getting to the coil even but I will. what do you guys think has this happened to anyone else? i have to get it running by this weekend or else I have to drive about 150 miles to get a trailer and back again. Thanks guys i'm in a bit of a bind!
Last reply by beandip, -
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Ugh... well some of you may have seen my post in the Electrical section about a weird negative spike in my voltometer reading... and I inquired if it could be the signs of a dying alternator... well... today I inadvertanly answered my question... in a bad way... If it hadn't been for my cell phone my Z would have left me stranded. Basically, I overworked the alternator I suspected was not working too well already, and now I need a one (windshield wipers + headlights + stereo = 'crippled alternator' and battery with about 7 volts of power) Once jumped the alternator provided enough power to keep the car running... but tacking on any additional accessories led to rapid powe…
Last reply by KDMatt, -
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Hey ya'll i just bought a 78 280z with a 6 cyl. overhead cam. i was able to drive it home but when i got it there it won't start. i have no idea why all of a sudden. i dumped the old fuel and put about 4 gallon in the tank but still no start any ideas??? maybe possible fuel pump? its bugging me really bad (anybody know how big of gas tank would be in that)
Last reply by Zwief280Z, -
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1974 260Z Electrial Issues Hi, about 2 years ago i bought a new alternator with life time guarantee, i also have a 150 watt amp in my car that powers my subwoofer. So what ended up happening is one day the car would start, it was totally drained, and you could hear the starter just barely trying on the first 1 or 2 turns of the key, then nothing, except you could hear the fuel pump running. So we jumped the car, and it worked, and every few times the car wouldnt start, so i replaced the alternator, and it worked fine for about 1 year. a few days ago i had the same problem, and like before, the amp needle is constantly moving, wether i turn on the lights, or have the radi…
Last reply by surfsnake2, -
- 24 replies
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Good afternoon, Well my 240Z is finally complete; G-nose and fender flares added, all paint and rust stripped off then repainted. I'm very happy with it. This is a 1970, and it is rust free. I even got the G-nose headlight covers shipped to me from my friend who lives in Tokyo. As you can see at the shifter, the original color was green but I have painted it silver and black. Problem is, some exhaust is getting in through the gear shift area. The rubber is completely shot, Any advice on how to replace this? What is the process and what kind of adhesive do I need? Thanks all. Erik
Last reply by erikgiles,
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