Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
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Am new at this! I just bought a 1976 280Z and need to repair and replace a few things on it, I need to know where I can find a Hazard Switch that goes onto the shift console. If anyone can help, message back or e-mail me please! thx. lockandloadandready@yahoo.com
Last reply by lockandload, -
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- 12 replies
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so, I'm cruising along until I get to one of those stop lights things(damn things...don't they know that Zeds were made to go? ). It's my turn to go, I attempt to shift into first, but it won't go. none of the gears will. I push the car off to the side of the road and do a quick checkover. I couldn't find anything externally: the pedal linkage is good, there's fluid in the reservoir (but, I checked the whole line anyway...no leaks) and I checked the slave cylinder. I only had enough time to have it towed home before I had to be at work, so I haven't had time to look at it yet. so, when I get started tomorrow, what should I be checking and how? a note about the slav…
Last reply by george71z, -
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OK, the last thing I want to do on my winter front-end rebuild is take the rack out and clean it up before I put everything else back in, especially since I'm doing poly on the rack bushings and steering coupler anyway. So, right now, the rack is loose and ready to pull out, EXCEPT, that it won't come out with the U-joint rod still attached! I have the rod disconnected at the steering coupler, but not at the rack end. I do, of course have the rack end pinch bolt off, but the #%*#&% joint onto the splined shaft will NOT come off. I've been Kroiling it for a little while, and done a LITTLE light prying, but I don't want to hurt the rack. The pinch area seems really…
Last reply by mdbrandy, -
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Hi All, My 1973 240Z steering wheel shakes considerably between 45 and 65 MPH. It smooths out at speeds greater than 65 MPH. Is this a wheel balancing and/or wheel alignment issue? I guess I'm perplexed by the fact that the shaking lessens at higher speeds - If it was balance or alignment wouldn't it get worse at higher speeds? Thanks in advance for any info/advice.
Last reply by dogma420, -
- 14 replies
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My '78 280z was running fine until I decided to remove the fuel rail and change the incorrect hose clamps on the fuel injectors to the proper type fuel injector hose clamps. To make a long story short, I have removed the fuel rail three times due to the same hose leaking upon reassembly and cranking the motor! I am using 1/4 inch fuel injected hosing at 400 PSI. The leaky hose in question is the second injector nearest the radiator. Yes, I have switched injectors to no avail...the same situated hose still swells up and starts to leak. Someone suggested changing the fuel pressure regulator which I currently have on order. Could this be the problem? It appears that a…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I need to know weather there is a wire going from - of the coil to the ballast resistor on a 280zx. Cheers.
Last reply by san_maru_zed, -
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I have the early model of a 260z with a 240z engine. It has the distrubiter off the original 260z engine and the 72 SU carbs. The original engine had the same problems but had the 74 flat top carbs on it (which were supposably rebuilt). I had a 240z parts car this engine and carbs came from. Ran great but was a complete rust bucket. So i'm just using this engine temporary til either i rebuild original or convert to v8 ( leaning towards v8 for the power ) The problem I'm having is its backfiring thru the carbs when I give it gas. Usually it won't do this if I "slowly" rev it up. I can get it to idle perfectly at 750 rpm. Sounds and idles smoothly. It also does this with t…
Last reply by cremmenga, -
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is the yolk for an 82 5 spd borg warner transmission rebuildable? i notice a clanking sound on my 72 240z car. i find out it is coming from a bad universal joint on the transmission end of the drive shaft. i pressed the u-joint out. the yoke does not look rebuildable. the u-joint housing does not have grove for the lock for the u-joint to stay in place. am i not just seeing it? if it is not rebuildable, what other input shaft is compatible with the borg warner transmission? thanks!!
Last reply by hf240z, -
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I have taken off the head light buckets and front fenders and just in that little bit i have twisted off alot of bolts, just wondering if this is happening to alot of you. I'm not worried about it i have all the tools to tap them out, just wanted to know if there is somthing i should be doing to prevent this. I am using penetrating oil and leting soak for hours if not days and spraying it several times. Any ideas or just keep twisting away??
Last reply by cremmenga, -
- 8 replies
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this is tougher than a Rubik's cube! So I got a new mirror, and I went to install it, but the installation screws are covered by the mount itself. So I can't figure out how to screw the mirror in without some kind of magic tool that can install it right through the piece of solid metal! Any help out there? I can't figure this out. Erik
Last reply by erikgiles, -
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- 2.9k views
I recently was in stop and go traffic and I noticed that as I was coming to a stop, that all to uneasy feeling that the Z was about to die came on. It was running hot that day and the temps had been in the 80's for the first time this year. Sure enough after a couple more stops I had to get off the hwy and let her rest for about 30 min. I was able to drive home after with no heat issues???? The car is a '73 240 with an after market A/C unit which includes the A/C radiator (which sets in front of the car's radiator). I have the original round tops and intake with Summer/Winter on it (set to Summer). Does this sound familiar? Can it be corrected? This is my daily …
Last reply by 240ZX, -
Dim lights 1 2
by The Wingnut- 17 replies
- 2.5k views
Just noticed this last night. I think that my alternator is going out, but I'm not sure. My lights are very dim, both the headlights and the instruments. The wipers almost don't move at all. The ammeter is reading a negative charge with the engine running. Anything other than a bad alternator that could be the cause? I'll probably buy a new alternator tomorrow, but I want to be sure I'm fixing the right problem before spending a load of dough.
Last reply by Victor Laury,
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