Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Ok so my Z is coming along well now! after a week of 15hr at college and 35 hours at work, the weekend finally came! I have almost all paint off my car and I finally found car in my bondo ( the root of all EVIL). To make along story short my clutch doesn't work, when you press in on it, with no resistence it goes right to the floor. I tried bleeding it, but i think it just leaks air to much. I bought a new master and slave cylider, I hope that is what i needed. Please inlighten me with your clutch knowledge and tell me if this is the right thing to do or if it is something else. THANKS AGAIN
Last reply by cremmenga, -
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i have taken 4 bolts and the starter motor off and my tranny wont come off. what else is left??
Last reply by texasz, -
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before you even ask yes i do have the rebuild your nissan and datsun engine book as well as how to modify. i see what sequence how to take off the head in the book. but these 10mm allen bolts are tough. well to start i bought a L28 (n42 block) and im taking it apart. this engine has been out of the rain and has been sitting in a garage for some time. so the oil is stuck on everything. i already drained it and got all out of the oil pan. im trying everything i can do to get these bolts off. should i spray with oil pentrator or not. since i plan on cleaning anything anway i dont see it hurting it but i dont want to do something if it effect my head in the long run. i plan …
Last reply by MikeW, -
- 6 replies
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I was driving home a few minutes ago and i was ona pretty cruddy road (bumpy, potholes) nothing too serious...when I hit a bump and lost all my electrical power... lights, engine, everything dead. All my fuses appear to be ok (although I only had my cell phone as a light) fortunately I was able to pullinto an AC Delco parts shop/repair shop... I need to knwo what possibly caused this so I can salvage my car ASAP...the only reason this is urgent is this happened in a pretty sketchy part of Waco, TX and I fear for my cars safety...as when I was leaving a small crowd was watching me from in front a seedy hourly rate motel... anyway, any pointers on the little info I have …
Last reply by TXblue240Z, -
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(I posted this in another thread, thought I'd post it here as well) Hello all, I am (and have been) actively in the market to purchase my first Z. After about a year of frustrating and unsuccessful attempts here, my efforts have led me to the West Coast. There is a Z that I am interested in that is located in the Sacramento area. I am out of state (TX), and, as nervous as it makes me, would be unable to see the car before purchase and am wondering if any members know of any 3rd party inspection companies in the area that can give it a good once over to verify everything is in good, working order. The owner seems legit, I'm just skeptical by nature. If not, not to be presu…
Last reply by Mikey Likes It, -
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I got sloppy while disassembling an L24 block. I didn't keep track of which main bearing cap went where. Oops! It's easy enough to figure out which one is the front, rear, and middle. The rest I'm not sure about. One has a 6 stamped on it, another a 5, and two more don't have anything stamped where the 6 and 5 are stamped. Any suggestions on how to proceed and get this straighted out?
Last reply by SuperDave, -
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HELP!!! I decided to drain and replace the Diff. fluid. I took out the drain plug before seeing if I could remove the fill plug. It is stuck!!! Can I fill the Diff. from that clear plastic plug on the top of the Diff??? Will 1 quart be enough? Please help... I have rendered the Z undriveable and it's a beautiful day out! Nate
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
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I received an early model Z car that I need to identify. I'm a noob and have no experience with the cars. I don't know if it is ok to post the VIN on a public fourm but here is the info that should help. I tried looking up how to decipher the VIN number but mine seems to conflict with the info I found. The vin starts with HLS30-###### The serial number falls between 270001 - 350000 Could someone help me figure out the year and model? Thanks! Darren
Last reply by dagmandt, -
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1970-240, I bought it from a guy that had it in his garage for 4 years. It cranked up and ran for a short time while I was there and I told him to shut it down. Trailered it home turn the key and got nothing but a click sound from a relay on the passenger side. I am not sure what the relay is and the books/ microfich are not to clear. I know I have a lot of work to do but first I need it to turn over. Any help will help........
Last reply by Mike, -
- 8 replies
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Hey guys, Sorry If I posted this in a wrong section but Im looking to get a Z. Could anyone please tell me in few words the differences between the Z cars. I always though 260Z was longer then 240Z but apparently they all the same size.... is this true? Are there any 2 seaters in 240Z family? are there any 2+2 in 240Z family? What about 260Z? how different they are from the 240Z apart from the engines? Which year model 240Z is the best to buy? Which model 260Z is the best to buy? If I get 240Z will restore it to its original conditon... if I get 260Z I have a RB20 engine package sitting in the garage waiting to be transplanted. I really what to get both I prob…
Last reply by dogma420, -
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Hey Z people, I just put in a new altinator and regulator (cause the last one wasn't working) on my 72 240 and it worked just fine for a few weeks.... but.... now it seems to not work when it gets cold (which is only at night cause I live in California :laugh: ) as soon as it heats up the altinator starts working again. I know it works because of the amp meter. When it works amp meter is in the + ... not working - I checked the main ground and it seems to be solid. Any suggestions? Thanks, Matt-
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
Have just installed a new motor and cannot get the clutch to work. Have put in new master cylinder as well as thrust bearing, pressure and clutch plate. The strange thing is that I can literally push the thrust bearing lever that comes out of the gearbox with little resistance. It does not even bounce back as one would expect if it is supposed to push the fingers in on the pressure plate. The pushrod on the slave cylinder practically falls out. :tapemouth Would this mean that the thrust bearing is not sitting on the lever correctly and if so, is it somehow possible to fix this without removing gearbox by going through the dust cover (I am not keen on doing this again!!)…
Last reply by zeiss150,
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