Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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Just wanted to Thank the people that assisted me by giving their Greatly Appreciated Knowledge to help get this beautiful Z car back on the road. Update- The fuel sending sensor was the problem. Not getting enough gas and was getting too much 0xigen. Now with the '77 motor in her she is faster than she was before. My deepest gratitude and heartfelt Thanx to you all. Thanx for having a Classic Z Car Club to come to for advise or if needed moral support. Bone Cracker & Wolfin32Z- You are the Best!!!! Stacey & Car Car
Last reply by calliebrat, -
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Ok, I went and checked out a 240z today. It was in decent shape. The floor boards looked rather rotted other than that as far as rot goes nothing else to major. The clutch went straight to the floor, possible a leak in the line or the clutch master? Im not sure if there is a common issue with these cars and the clutch. Maybe it is something simple im not sure. There is something wrong with the fuel pump/fuel line. The car ran great if we hooked up the fuel line straight into a 1 gallon gas tank. But other than that a line may be clogged or fuel pump may be dead? Not sure if there is a common problem there either. Some pluses where it had a after market heat wrapped head…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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I need some help identifying the parts in the attached pix. They should have all come off of a '82 280ZX non-turbo but since I'm not into those I just don't know what these are (plus I didn't pull them, they came with a lot of parts purchased from a buy stripping his car). The last two pix are the same part but I zoomed in on the label.
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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hey ppl, my dad has a problem we need answered yesterday! he has a 260z 2+2 speedway car and what we would like to know is did it ever come out in the states, south africa or anywhere in the world for that matter with fuel injection rather than twin S.U.'s? this is a urgent post, thanks every1! any websites with info regarding this would be appreciated! Rohan
Last reply by deadflo, -
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I am trying to figure out why my tach does not work. From searching I have seen that the green wire from my - term on the coil goes to the tachometer. The tach also has a black (ground) and red/black (12v) wire on the back of it (along with light bulb wires). I have tested for breakage in the green and black wires and they read fine with the ohm meter. Power reads 12v from the red/black wire and ground. When the key is on, 12v, when the car is started and idling it drops down to about 6v-7v. When car is fast idled the voltage increases again up to 12v. With this information, am I believe that my tach is toast? Is there anything else I can test that will give me my answ…
Last reply by seerex, -
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I have been noticing some play in the handle, and today it popped, then quit working. The inside one still works, I just have to lean through the passenger side to open my door. What parts do I need to replace? I am hoping to be able to fix it in one day, so knowing what is likely broken and needs replacing will be invaluable. My days off are kind of spaced out, and I do not want to have to lean through my passenger side for a week and a half.
Last reply by seerex, -
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Thanks ahead of time for all of your help. I may be posting in the wrong section and if I am please excuse me, it's my first post. I have just begun to look for a z to buy and I'm going Saturday, that's why I posted in the urgent section, to look at a 76 one owner car with 176k miles. I am a completely ignorant about the 280z but I love the looks of the car and I know it has a good reputation among its owners. What I'd like to know is: 1. What's the price range for a fixer upper that runs, to one that is say an 8 out of 10, keeping in mind the year and the miles on this car? 2. Anything specific to the 280z that I should look for? 3. How difficult are parts to find? 4. I…
Last reply by venom42, -
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Hi, For my '70 240Z... I used an impact to remove the bolt that holds on the AC & Crank pulley. I'm assuming I use the impact wrench to put it back on too. Am I correct? I just don't want to damage anything. :nervous: Thanks, Steve
Last reply by texasz, -
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The passenger door window of my '72 240 won't go down or up. It's stuck about 1/3 of the way up. I took everything off to expose the door shell and found the roller had come out of the bottom guide. After trying for some time to fix this thru the small openings in the steel shell, I was hoping for a better way to do this. No matter what I do, or how I position the window, I can't get the roller back in the window guide Any suggestions, tips, prayers are appreciated. thanks Bill
Last reply by BunkyScott, -
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Hello all, I just picked up a 72 240Z and was wanting to read up more on it. Technical articles on engine swaps (particularily a 280zxt swap), suspension, technical info like engine stats, gearing etc and just general owners rantings. are there any recommended pages to look at (shameless plugging of your own site is recommended ) ? Honestly, this site is a little bit hard to navigate and I can't seem to find any live links to a good tech write up.... Thanks so much in advance all. -Chee
Last reply by xray, -
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Has anyone done this successfully? Any opinions on whether to do this or not? I had to replace the flare nut for the clutch master cylinder and cut the flare off the tube to get it off. Now when I try to flare it, the flaring tool needs space to get around the tube and the new nut won't go down far enough past a bend to allow the room. A friend had suggested cutting the line further down, flaring it and coupling another piece of line to make up the difference. Not sure if I want to do this, or just buy a whole new line from the clutch hose to the m/c. Thanks for the help Bill
Last reply by BunkyScott, -
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well of course i get the engine all back together and ready to go but... it wont start. ive got spark, my injectors say they are firing, and i have compression. although its weird, the spark plugs are completely clean but smell like gas. everything should be close to time since i took the engine apart and put it back together the way the FSM said to (i.e. putting the correct cam chain links on the timing mark of the crank sprocket and cam sprocket and installing the distributor in that 5 degrees position at TDC) My mechanic gave me a noid light to confirm my injectors are firing and they are. he also gave me a test light to check all my grounds but im not sure how to …
Last reply by seerex,
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