Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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i was trying to adj the window on the track that is not right (p.o) issue i guess. the track looks bent so i cant put the wheels back on the rails . i obviously cant take the panel off because it is spot welded. now the window is just sitting there freely off the tracks! i lifted the window up and jammed something to keep it shut for now. any suggestions on how to get this fixed? i want to be able to roll down my darn windows! i dont think they sell the track sliders or do they?...and seems it might be easier to pick up another door any help would be appreciated. thanks ~B
Last reply by 260Zed, -
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(78 280z) Ok, im in the process of rebuilding my engine. I just got 500 bux that i can spend on parts. So im getting main, and rod bearings, rings, and some other small stuff. I was wondering which of these two am i supposed to get for my mains? http://shop.nissanpartstore.com/?make=NI&year=1978 Thanks a bunch EDIT: Go to the main bearings section under engine mechanical. There is STD, and 0.25mm (0.010") Which one is for me?
Last reply by MrMarcDude, -
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OK, I have all the basic knowledge of how the turbo system works, and how to incorperate it with my early Z.. BUT!!! One Part I just dont quite get......... "Timing". stock 76' is 8 deg. (+/- 2 )..... 81'-82' turbo 20 deg... and 83' is 24 deg. 1) Why would you Advance the timing on a turbo system??? 2) Can someone help me understand why with a system that you dont want detonation!!, would you have the spark start sooner?? 3) Is there something about the increased cylinder pressures that slows combustion??? or do I have something wrong in my thinking this out?? Any help appreciated, aZcarbum
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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:stupid: Hey, my speedometer on my 1975 280Z does nothing except light up.... any ideas?
Last reply by jszarecki, -
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Hello, all I am in the last stage of dash removal(76 280Z). On the factory service manual there's one instruction that I am not very clear of : 9.Remove Screws securing side ventilator control bracket in place. I don't know what it is referring to? or where it is. My current situation is : I haven't disconnect things behind the dash, but most related nuts(if not all?) are removed. Dash is free to move on the passenger side, but something on the driver side keeps it from coming out, it will only come out 1 or 2 inches. As I pull, it feels like something is stuck, but not electrical connections nor steering shaft. Please advise. Thanks
Last reply by mdbrandy, -
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What is the BEST product you have found to aiding in the removal of rusted on or otherwise stuck nuts and bolts? I have heard to use a 'penatrating oil' but that's a bit gernic, what brands have you found to work the best? I am going to get back to stripping down my parts car and many of the nuts and bolts have never been loosened are are quite stuck.
Last reply by Inf, -
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I have a 72 240....body is shot, but it is all there. I purchased a 1970 that is in great shape but it is gutted.....No dash no wiring harness...no motor....no fuel tank. How difficult and how much time will it take to swap all parts from one car to another? Am I getting into a big mess with this project?
Last reply by jeff1216, -
Title Problems 1 2
by jeff1216- 17 replies
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OK........I bought a great condition 1970 240 that is gutted. I am transplanting the motor,trans,dash,wiring harness from a 1972 240. The vin# is one digit off on the 1970's title. The state that the car came from does not require a title on a car that old.....The state I am in does. I could not get it titled in S.C. because the Vin on the car was one digit off on the title. (it was a typo). S.C. told me that G.A. needs to correct the title......I called GA and they refuse to correct the title because they do not require a title on that old of a car. So I am kinda screwed......I am going to try the DMV once more tommorrow. If I cant get it straight my only choice is to…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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i upgraded the front brake caliper on my 72 240z with a 4 piston caliper from a 79 or 80 toyota 4 x4. i use the original brake line and a 15/16 brake master cylinder from a 280z. the rotors are newly turned and i put a new brake pads. i bleed the front and the rear brake. the brake are spongy and have to pump twice for the caliper to actually engage. please help my restless 240z? what did i do wrong? i decided to hire a mechanic to check it. he said that the 4 piston caliper is much to big for the brake master, help???help ???
Last reply by hf240z, -
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Woe Is Me, I took my 280z down to a Car Wash Place that also does Detailing. They Steamed cleaned the engine, painted(?) some of the wires, buffed the car ...etc. The problem? ...... :mad: When I try to accelarate, the car tends to want to stall. Car runs fine to 2500 rpm, but when I push the gas pedal down, it seems to starve for gas or something. It sounds like someone reving the engine up and down several times. What's Wrong? Please Advise Thanks in advance.
Last reply by dga, -
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I have a 1973 240 with a rusted front fender and have found a fender off of a 1978 2+2. Do any of you guys know if it is interchangable? Thanks
Last reply by Bluesman1958, -
- 3 replies
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Does anyone sell a battery tray replacement that can just be welded into place? As you guys can see......I am gathering every possible piece I may need for my 72 to 70 swap................................I ordered around $1k worth of goodies from VB and Motorsports and around another $700.00 on Ebay......When I start this transformation....I want to make sure that I have every part I could possibly need.....May even have a couple xtras when I am done. Better safe than sorry.
Last reply by abas,
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Wilbur
