Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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my 1973 240z has two electrical connections on one end of the wire harness and a black wire on the other that a bolt or screw would go through to ground it. when i ground this wire to the car, it stays hot all the time, and runs my battery down. what should i ground it to that that won't make it hot when the ignition is off?
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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My 78 280Z. Recently, while driving on city streets, way out in the country-burbs, my engine would just cut out with your foot on the gas, pushing just a little. So I let off the pedal, and the engine comes back., push again and it "stalls" like if it was floodded or the injuectors suddenly quit. A couple times it happened turning a corner, or when you accelerate off the light, usually just after the 1-2 gear change. I was thinking there might be a problem with the wiper on the AFM, like water or oil on the resistive strip. or something with the flapper. Any thoughts? thx
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have a 72 240Z. I am in desperate need of the front engine frame rails...............If anyone out there has a parts car sitting around that the 2 rails are in good shape...but the rest of the car is shot......Please hack them off and sell them to me. Or point me in the right direction to purchase them. Thanks in advance Jeff
Last reply by ecp48, -
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after my car got left out in the rain for the 1st time (seriously) the car wouldnt start so i got out and noticed that the covers for my fusable links were letting alot of water in, so i replaced them with the ones out of a friends datsun,jumped it and drove it home now sometimes if i have any electrical stuff on, i.e. lights, turn signal, dash lights, and i slow down the car will just die.. i loose tach,the door open alarm goes off and my fasten seatbelts light turns on and i just coast.. most of the time i can just let off the clutch and it will pop back on. my volt gauge shows about 13 volts most of the time but it noticably goes down w. each electrical thing turned …
Last reply by beandip, -
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1972 240Z I did a little searching and it seems to point to the vapor tank vent hoses....I think that is what they are called. It only drips out when you put more than 1/2 tank of gas into it. Does this sound like the hoses to you guys? Maybe the filler neck? I also read that to replace the hoses you remove the inside access panel.....Where is this? Behind the interior trim? The trim panels are held in place by Plastic rivets....Is there a way to get them out without breaking the rivets? Thanx in Advance Jeff
Last reply by Go240Zags, -
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Ok, so i jus swapped a 77 motor into my 78 shell. Im using the 78 ecu. I also have a 240sx 60mm tb with the 240sx tps. I never touched it. i pluged everything back where it supposed to be. Now when i start up the car. I can rev it up a bit for maybe a few seconds then it'll begin to stall and if i try to give it gas, the rev's drop and car tries to stall n when i let off the gas, the revs may come bak up a bit then it'll jus stall most of the time. wat is going on here? can anyone help me figure this out? Oh yeah, i also removed the air regulator.
Last reply by z_boi, -
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Is there a way to bench test a wiper motor to see if it is working? I was thinking that using the battery, I could apply power to the LR (Power Source) and a ground back to the battery via B (Ground) but what do I do about the LW (To Relay), L (Low) and LY (High). I assume that they are some how related to the 2 or 3 speeds of the motor. If anyone knows how to do this I would appreciate the help. r/, Jimmy
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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Hey guys, I'm in the process of mounting an MSA rear sway bar on my 73 240. The car did not have an existing rear bar, however it appears that there are factory mounting brackets welded to the frame. I have secured the swaybar to the a-arms with the appropriate linkage, and interestingly the sway bar fits right into those welded "mounts" on the frame. The instructions that came with the MSA bar don't mention this mounting place and suggest drilling holes through the frame (via removing the carpet behind the seats). Can I just use the existing "mounts" or do you suggest using the MSA method??? Thanks! Daniel Stampf
Last reply by beandip, -
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:disappoin If it's not one thing, it's another... My Z has had a vibration coming from the rear for a while. I recently jacked up the left rear, wiggled the wheel to see if it was a bad bearing, and spun the wheel to see if there was anything visible. There was nothing "visibly" wrong, but instead something was "audibly" wrong - The wheel would spin freely for half a revolution, but then kind of "rub" for the second half of the revolution? You know, like there was friction preventing it from spinning freely? :disappoin Any ideas what it could be? Would it be explained by a bad wheel bearing, or something more dramatic?
Last reply by 2-4-T-Z-MAN, -
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Hello all, I need two inner tie rod ends (the ones that go inside the steering rack) for a 75 260Z. Nissan don't list them any more, neither does my regular parts shop. Does anybody know where I can get these? Preferably in Australia, but will order from US if I have to. Thanks
Last reply by Rob, -
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Hi All, I thought I didn't have an electrical fuel pump because I couldn't hear it. Well, I did have one, but it turns out it was crippled. It was pumping so badly that it was actually impeding the flow of fuel. I replaced it with a universal in-line electrical fuel pump and now the car has good power at all RPM ranges even after driving for a while. By the way, the coolant to the carbs was blocked already, so I knew my problem had to be something else. Now, I've got another problem I'd like to run by you all. When I'm crusing at 3000 RPM and I just put the car into neutral, the RPM will hold at about 2800 RPM and stay there even though my foot is off the gas pedal. If I …
Last reply by ChrisA, -
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Well, it's not quite an emergency, but I could use some advice. About four months ago, I was pulling out of a parking garage & smelled smoke. I got the fire out, drove it home & was so disgusted I parked the Z for 4 months while I worked on other projects. Today I finally crawled under the dash & found what happened. I think the heater switch failed & started a fire. I'm not sure why, but a couple of suspicions: > could have just been 25 yrs of crud & dirt > I've been running over-voltage because I haven't been able to track down why the voltage-regulator can't maintain voltage. Have replaced it twice. Might need to change out the altern…
Last reply by zoom240,
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