Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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I've read a lot of posts on switching from automatic to standad and none viceversa. Is it a bad thing to have an automatic transmision an a 240Z? It's because of poor performance, or do they fail more often. I just bought an automatic 240Z with L28 engine, I want to know how much the automatic tranny is ruin the performance of the L28. I haven't seen a automatic race car in my life, that mean someting I'm not a hard core racing fanatic. but it's more fun driving a standard that's for shure.
Last reply by GunnerRob, -
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- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
K.here's the thing.I'm almost positive the problem is my carbs but my dad says I should check compression etc before I assume its the carbs.Just thought I'd see what you guys think.Now for the symptoms: I havent drove it but did this while on a jackstand(brother had to use rim)hehe.I can start the car.Idles fine.But if I step on the gas all the way car will just run rough and RPM's wont go go up at all.Just sound's like its being overchoked with gas or something. RPM's wouldnt go up so I decided to mess around and if I put the gas pedal about 1/4 and it'll run rough but I hold it there for a little while then slowly rev about 3/4 then full then it'll run rough then finall…
Last reply by seerex, -
- 16 replies
- 4.2k views
One of the head bolts broke last night on my "new" L28. Picture is attached. Based on other threads I've read on this site, I've been keeping it wet with penetrating oil since then. I also have drilled a hole into it to use an easy out. At this point I suspect the remaining bolt is rusted in the threads. The picture makes it look redder than it does in person though. I've twisted as hard as I think I should on the easy out and it's not budging. I read some discussion about heating, but I'm not sure if I should try that here, and how to go about it. I do have a propane torch (the kind used to solder copper pipe for plumbing). The block is on an engine stand righ…
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
- 7 replies
- 1.3k views
i have a 5spd tranny on my 280z. when i bought the car, the pedal for the clutch would hit the floorboard if you pressed it down. so i thought that filling fluid and bleeding the clutch would fix the problem. after cleaning everything out, i filled fluid in the clutch resivoir (spelld that wrong) and went ahead and started bleeding the clutch. after several attempts, it didnt seem like anything got better. while under the car, i was looking at the clutch as my buddy was pressing the pedal, it seems like its missing something(maybe a spring or sometihng)...could that be my problem??? as always, any and ALL insight/help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Last reply by silv3r0ne, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Alright you propeller heads.... Here's the dreaded compression numbers from my 75 Z with 173k. I did the test with all the plugs out and a preheated block. First the good news, I blew even numbers across all cylenders. The compression dry was 130 on all 6 and 140 with 2 squirts. I didn't think that a 10 PSI jump wet was a great jump (correct me if I'm wrong) so I was wondering if there is anything else that could be causing low compression like the valves? And without looking inside would you think that a simple honing and rings would fix this? The car seems to have OK power and no valve rattle.:disappoin
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Hey guys, The problem I'm having right now is that the car is not getting the full voltage when driving/sitting and dies. I recently installed a new alternator which is a Ac Delco GM 1 wire 90amp alternator. I hooked it all up and it charges the battery at 15 volts and when its off the car battery stays at 13.2v which is great. I have an altmeter connected to my battery while the car is running and it reads 15 volts, and the volt meter inside the car reads it at 8 volts when running. If I then turn on the headlights the voltmeter goes down to 4 volts and the car dies. If I shut the lights off the car will run fine. I can drive the car with no power on and it reads …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 5 replies
- 1.5k views
Hi everyone.I'm new to this board as you can tell.I'm a proud new owner of a 1973 240z..and I went down to purchase a new starter for it and they said there was hitachi or mitsubishi. I didnt know there was 2.Which one is the right one or does it even matter? They only had hitachi in stock.It's smaller then the one that was on there.But I thought hey..carbs etc. are hitachi. Please let me know. Thanks for the help guys!!!!!!!!!
Last reply by Chino 240Z, -
- 19 replies
- 2.7k views
I've only had my Z a few months and have done my fair share of surfing for information and applying what I've learned durring the day. I see the phrase "zed" used all over and have no idea what it means. I'm sure that you guys will set me strait. Thanks
Last reply by Stryder, -
- 6 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi gang, I sent my tank to "Gas Tank Renu" and it looks great. However, they appear to have permanently sealed the gaps at the bottom of the baffles in the tank, although I begged them ahead of time to be careful NOT to clog them. Anyway, they are sealed, thus leaving the tank very divided. I expect the result will be a lifetime of incorrect fuel gauge measurements. Any Suggestiions on a do it yourself fix, like drilling through the baffle? I have not installed the tank.
Last reply by Bentley, -
My first Z
by AndyG- 8 replies
- 1.5k views
Hey hows it going. My names andy. Ive wanted a z car for years. Every morning on my bus ride to junior high i used to see a cherry 240 z parked along the curb on my bus route. The first time I seen it knew i wanted a 240Z. Well Its many years later and now I have finally gotten a z. Its a 240 z manufactured in 10/71. It is in great shape and has very little rust. It has dual su carbs and a later model fuel injection head. It runs, but from my past experience with dual carbs i can tell that the carbs need balancing. It chugs while revving in nuetral and spits out medium amounts of black smoke. This combined with horrible gas milage is telling me it is running way too rich.…
Last reply by AndyG, -
- 10 replies
- 2k views
Does anybody have favorite weight/ brand/ GL spec for their gear lube? I've got one 4 speed, one 5 speed, two R-180's (one welded, one open), and one LSD R-200 to change lube soon. Petro based, or Synthetic? Any additives? Thanks, Pancho
Last reply by peterc, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
I have a 76 L28e N42, and it looks like I got the wrong head gasket. The gasket says 81-83 280ZX on it, for a F54 casting I'm guessing. Will this gasket work or do I need to return it and get the proper unit? thanks.
Last reply by 1975yellowBSPZ,
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