Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi all, I wanted to put my car up on stands tonight to check the brakes, but a look in the "trusty" Haynes manual was not to clear up my question - where do I put the jackstands??? I figure that I can lift the car on the differential, but the Haynes manual is not very clear on where the axle stands can be placed. In the picture, it looks like the rail to which the swaybar mount is attached is a safe place - would that be sufficiently solid? It also looks like the front edge of the floor support is where to put the front jackstands... is that correct? They don't look all that structural in this car... any advice (preferably with pics!!!) would be great!! Thanks, Ayan
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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- 14 replies
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I recently had to re do the hard drive because of a virus and lost all files and everything. I had a geocities.com address that covered the 180 to R-200 swap in a 240 . I am doing this swap starting tomarrow and would like the infromation . Thanks
Last reply by Mike, -
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- 1k views
Nothing major , I am swaping out the 180 and going with the R-200 . The trouble I am having is the studs that are in the back of the diff. that bolt to the moustash bar are larger than the 180s that I had planned to use. WHAT SIZE ARE THE NUTS ?? I know the thread size is 1.5 but I need to know what the size is . I miked the stud and they are .510 in dia. accross the threads . Is it a 13 mm or 12mm? Thanks Gary
Last reply by V8-240Z, -
- 8 replies
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I am using the engine from a 280ZX in a car I am building. I chose to remove the EFI and computer stuff and replaced it with a pair of SUs from a 240Z. The SUs sat on the shelf for several years. I can't get the car to run right. Specifically, the carbs flood after I shut off the ignition. I have a low pressure fuel pump. Are there soft parts in the SUs that I can get in a rebuild kit? Ther are other problems (I think) but need to get this sorted out first. Any ideas? Dan Danley
Last reply by beandip, -
- 6 replies
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A few little pieces fell out from under the horn pad yesterday, causing the horn to sound constantly. I had to pull the fuse to continue our trip. Today, I pulled off the horn button and matched up the little pieces that fell off. There are 3 screws with washers that go through a black plastic spacer. One of the screw assemblies had fallen out. I also found a black rubber O-ring on the floor, and when I removed the contact plate that these screws go through, an old, fragile thinner O-ring fell out. Any suggestions on how/where to mount the O-rings would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by MariaAZ, -
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How many horsepower is a stock 280 motor? and if you put 40mm tripple SK racing carbs? and does anyone know how fast 0-60? if all this set up were on a 240Z? Thanks guys
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
- 4 replies
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Hey guys, Ok Z problem # 95 (god I love my Z) ! What would cause my exause to smell really "exausty" (new word). the engine is totally rebuilt. new rings all new bearings the head was totally redone 3 angle valve job new seats the works. I think I might have a leak in my SU's on the butterfly valve bushings. So what could be making my exaust smell so bad??? help:alien:
Last reply by zeiss150, -
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Ok got my z running great su's all tuned then when I was driving it back from the muffler shop it started sputtering and spitting like it was not getting fuel, made it home and waited 5 mins and it fired up fine , then the last 2-3 times it will fire up and run ok for a bit then start the sputtering part and today I couldn't get it to fire without that, the car has sat for almost 2 years from the previous owner, it ran fine when I first got it running so I added a touch of fresh gas to help things but I think I loosened up some bad stuff, got a guy in town who wants 125-160 to clean the tank , came highly recommended from a guy I regularly use, any big NO NO's when removi…
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hi, Please forgive me for asking, but I need some help. I am working on a 1972 TR6 and since the bolt patter matches that used in Nissans, I am in the process of fabricating attachments to hang a set of rear calipers from a 1984 300ZX. The car originally came with drums, so the improvement to discs will be great. Why? Well a friend of mine gave me the calipers and they will be a great fit. I took them apart and unfortunately the pistons are pitted. THey will leak. Several qustions come to mind: is there a way to buy just the pistons? These calipers look in good shape, so maybe buy a rebuild kit and new pistons and I'm ready to go. HOWEVER, does anyone know where I…
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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Just bought a 1983 280zx turbo. Car was setting for 2 years on a lot. It would not start after replacing the battery, so started doing some troubleshooting. Found that 5 of 6 plugs were fouled out. After replacing the plugs, the car now runs. It idles pretty well, but is sluggish when given the gas to speed up. I have 2 questions: 3 of the injectors are green and 3 are brown. does this mean that 3 are turbo and 3 are not? The turbocharger does not give a positive boost like it should. The manifold gauge goes from negitive pressure to about 0 at best. I can spin the turbo by hand and it turned with very little drag. Is this normal? Could an exhaust restri…
Last reply by dan280zx, -
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Hood sticker on my 1983 280zx turbo has 24 degrees btdc. My Hayes manual does not adress how the car should be set up to check the timing and how to adjust it if it is off. Is there thing that needs to be unhooked before using the timing light? Is there a better manual that I can get for this car? Hood sticker engine # is DNS2.8V5FBF7
Last reply by dan280zx, -
- 13 replies
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We took the '73 240Z out for a brief run yesterday. Hubby (whose Z it is) is already challenging me and my '74 260Z to some friendly competition. The first few times I tried starting it, it blew huge clouds of white smoke from the tailpipe. However, after running for awhile it gets better and the water vapor get less noticeable. Cylinder 4, which has very low compression, has a sparkling clean sparkplug, a sign (I hear) of water leaking into the combustion chamber. I haven't yet tried retorquing the head bolts, suggested in an earlier post. However, I am preparing for the eventuality of pulling the head. I checked the gallery to see if I might find a photo of where …
Last reply by MariaAZ,
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