Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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I’m looking to install new shocks in my Ground Control Coilovers. They were built to spec as per the included instructions. I’m not sure what size to order for the front and rears. Anyone help me with what shocks to order? Thanks
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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- 6 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.9k views
Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any help you can give me. My 1976 280z was running fine last time I drove it, but after sitting in the CA sun for 2 years, I'm struggling to get it back on the road. After draining out the old gas, I have a new battery, new spark plugs, and a couple gallons of new gas in. When I go to start it, all I get is cranking, and no turn over, and I have yet to hear the fuel pump cone on. I've tried moving the new battery to the rear and getting 12v to the fuel pump directly, but this doesn't get the fuel pump going either, just a click. I also don't seem to be getting power to the fuel pump when cranking. Any ideas on w…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Hey guys I’m new to this website but I have read a ton of stuff on here and it’s been a great help so that’s why I’ve joined. Anyways my 78 280z has been running fine for a while, I have all new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and afm. My fuel pump relay was bad so I wired up a switch to the wires where the fuel pump relay normally connects to and it’s worked fine. Recently however it has been idling horribly at around 500 rpm, but when I flip the fuel pump switch to off it jumps right back up to 1000rpm and idles fine until it dies from fuel starvation. It will also occasionally die out in addition to not accelerating sometimes. I’ll be driving and suddenly the power will not…
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 952 views
Weird situation going on here. I'm attempting to charge my factory AC on my '78 280z. There's a non-trivial leak in the condenser but it will hold refrigerant for about a month and a half. I plugged an AC gauge/charger into the low side port and connected a r134a can, but the system only took in enough to get to about 20lb of pressure. After leaving the car running for about 15 minutes and it staying on 20lb, I shut it off and took the can out (i turned the can sideways and upside-down while charging but it never went above 20lb of pressure. When I wiggle the can I can still hear liquid in there. Is there some other liquid in these cans that do not get sucke…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 4 replies
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Hi Guys, I have a 72' 240Z that I want to restore. I have a question regarding a bigger brake upgrade. I have seen some assembly that doesn't use caliper line transfer. can I just put a longer flexible brake instead? without using the S shape transfer line? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 4.2k views
Hey. I have been struggling to trace down for some time an intermittent issue with my Z. The engine runs perfect besides this issue. Not a hiccup. It makes great smooth power, passes smog Extremely well, idles well, it basically runs exactly the same it has for the last three years except for this recent issue. Its a stock 1978 280z which I DD . The only modification that comes to mind is I have safteyhub 150 I installed years ago. Problem: The Engine will intermittently not start(it doesnt matter if its been cold and sitting or warm). It started happening months ago, It always starts back up, but the problem has progressively become frequent, and it takes long…
Last reply by stravi757, -
- 4 followers
- 22 replies
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CAR: 240Z build date 11/69: Problem: Cant find the YELLOW wire to connect to sender. It does not exist in the back harness any place. From what everyone says and from various manuals, there are two wires going to the sender: 1 black/ground and one YELLOW. Does anyone have any ideas? I am stumped. Any help/idea would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by 240260280, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 488 views
71 240z new to me. Thursday night I filled with gas, adding enough extra after the pump shut off, that I could see gas down in the neck, maybe 4". Intended to drive it the next day but did other things. Friday afternoon got to 85F, I walked by it and saw a little pool of gas on the pavement and gas seeping from under the filler cap. Cursed myself, got a turkey baster and sucked gas out until it was barely visible again, which is about 4" down. Saturday afternoon got to 90F again, and gas was seeping out a second time. Sucked it out again. Today it's done it for the third time in 95F temps! Unfamiliar with how the expansion tank and vent system is supposed to…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 4 followers
- 5 replies
- 5.1k views
What is the recommended sealant used to secure the rear tail light lens to the bulb assembly housing? There are two slots in the rear plastic lens on the lower part which at my best guess is to let water out if it does get in? Can anyone confirm if this is what these are for and if that isn't the case, what are they for. Thanks in advance. James
Last reply by 240znz, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I need to replace the rubber squeegees in the door to glass mouldings. - Does anyone know a source for the rubber (no metal)?
Last reply by Jughead, -
- 7 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.4k views
I just bought my first Series I from out-of-state (West Virginia) that is HLS30-07184 and is titled as a 1971. The build date is 07/70, making it a 1970 model. The car has not yet arrived to my home here in Colorado yet and I'm concerned about this issue. I don't know if it's a clerical error that happened many years ago and it just carried on for years. I asked the previous owner to take pictures of the VIN locations on the firewall, the data plates and the dash and they all checked out and were authentic with no signs of tampering in any way. I also had the previous owner take a picture of the original matching-numbers engine's serial number and it matched what was on …
Last reply by lonetreesteve, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 765 views
Hi All, Took on the huge task of replacing all my suspension bushings (rubber). Front control arms tough but no issues. The rear control arms have been difficult. 8 hours to remove the pivot bushings at the forward shaft. Upon removal of the second bushing sleeve, stood back to pat myself on the back and the control arm fell out of the vise and donked the tube for the slide on bushing (24MM bolt) Does anyone know what tap size is needed to clean up the top threads in the tube? Note to self, leave bolts in the tube on the next arm. Thank you,
Last reply by grannyknot,
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