Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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GREETINGS, I have an L24 head and an L28 block both stock, my question is, what are the odds of running this configuration can I get more power better compression ect.. by running this or is better by keeping L24 head/block or the L28 head/block configuration. thank you
Last reply by beandip, -
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...seriously... two hours... lots of cussing and zip zero nothing. we raised we lowered we rotated the tranny all to no avail. F54 block w/new 81ZX non-turbo coupe friction disk & pressure plate correctly installed & lined up with Nissan clutch alignement tool trying to mate with a 77-8Z 5spd. 3 days of renting a cherry picker/engine hoist is getting expensive, so i guess i will drop the tranny after work (i REALLY didn't want to), put the engine in, bolt it up, return engine hoist and later try to reinstall tranny... Any local Z guy who always happens to get it on the first try care to give me a hand? The car is in Thousand Oaks (CA) off of the 101 west of the Sa…
Last reply by EricB, -
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heres the deal. I start to hear this noise when I shift gears. (mainly first). Even when Im in reverese I hear this noise.Somthing seems loose or broke. I came to the conclusion that I needed a tranny mount, however i took it to the shop and they lifted me up and told me that its the differential. He turned the right wheel and the left wheel didnt budge. Is this limited slip or is something broke? I also noticed that my stick shift get warm after driving for about 20mins. any suggestions. Is their a dianostic test that I can do myself to to figure out whats going on. I was about to go out and purchase a rear end, but I really cant afford that.
Last reply by moyest, -
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Anyone have a spare copy of the rebuilding Nissan OHC engines book I can Borrow buy or trade in Dallas?, Mine didn't come thru now I just have the factory manual (pull engine, rebuild, torque, replace) and this forum for my rebuild which we are starting this weekend. Bryan
Last reply by CaptnKrunch, -
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The original matching # L24 kicked the can yesterday afternoon. As a result I am putting in my F54 which has been waiting in the wings for some time, that and some brand new Mikuni 44s... yum! Head bolt torque specs for an L24 head with the F54 block? Or are they not different than a normal L24 torque spec? Which Z should I get the head bolts from? I've got a 77-8 5spd in there right now, when I go to get new clutch/press.plate am I asking for one intended for a 77-8 280Z? Or am I asking for one for an '81 280ZX? Should I keep my current flywheel or use the F54's flywheel? Does it matter? I think I've got everything else covered... -e
Last reply by Ed, -
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Several weeks ago I decided to put new plugs in my 79 motor and at the same time do my first compression test. It tested between 140 and 150 on all but number 4 which read in successive tests: 130, 140, 128, and 115. I went ahead and installed some platinum Bosch (at .034, seemed to run rougher than the old plugs, hmm.). Finding out that I could put some oil in the cylinder to try to isolate where the compression loss is coming from, I decided to retest number 4 tonight. Well, It tested 145 then 145 then 145 and again. I decided to test all the rest of the cylinders in case my inexperience could have caused issues with either testing sessions but got readings betwee…
Last reply by ScoHo, -
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I have holes in the top of the flanges of my N33 manifolds right before the carburetors. 4 on the flange near the front of the motor and 2 on the rear. The front 4 are all sealed with bolts; only one of the rear 2 is sealed, the other is sucking air. I don't know a whole lot about vacuum but this doesn't seem right. Also, I'm assuming the flying saucer thing on my distributor is vaccuum advance (?) which is also sealed. What should really be happening with all these sealed holes?
Last reply by ScoHo, -
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1978 280Z F54 block with flat top pistons E88 head Ported polished oversized valves Wild cam (stage III) Arizona intake Holley 390cfm A little more info........................I was suprised to find that my 78 had an F54 block.....when I pulled the head off the pistons looked new...very little carbon. I do not know if it has been bored over or not. E88 head was a lucky find.........I bought all new 280Z valves for it.............the machine shop had me come by...The head looked to be race prepped................Huge intake and exhaust valves.....much larger and thinner than the stock 280 valves. Installed the stage III cam and heavy springs. We can get the car to fire whe…
Last reply by Ben, -
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I'm having a really tough time with a very sporadic low rpm miss with my 1971 Z. The engine, carbs. and ignition are totally stock except for a Pertronix ignition I installed last August. I doubt thats the problem since the miss which can happen at any time whether the car is hot or cold, just started occurring last month and it occurs just out of the blue. The car can be running just perfect, it always idles just right then as I pull away from a stop it will hesitate and stumble until the engine hits about 3000 rpms where it clears up completely. If I hit the throttle hard as it begins stumbling it really bucks, but if I'm really careful and let the rpms build slowly …
Last reply by Ed, -
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I mounted the intake and Holley 390.....................There is ZERO room for and air cleaner.....Now What???
Last reply by kyteler, -
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Dose anyone know how to do a test on a ignition moduel for a 1980 Datsun 280zx?? Thanks Steve
Last reply by Ed, -
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I am gonna just tear her down and start over from the begining..............Is there a away to remove the timing cover without dropping the oil pan?
Last reply by Bambikiller240,
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