Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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I'm trying to remove the inside speedo cable, the "snake" in the cable housing, on our '71 Fairlady Z. Can't figure out which end it will pull out from, speedo end or tranny end. Tried at the speedo end and it didn't budge. Tugged on the tranny end a little but it doesn't want to seem to come out! Is there something unseen holding it in or am I missing something? The dealer said all he knew was it was 8" shorter than the regular Z cable ... not much help. Which end should it pull out of??? Thanks!!!
Last reply by MikeW, -
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- 17 replies
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Have a 1975 280Z. Decided to take it for a spin this afternoon. For starters it doesn't run that well but well enough for a low mileage spin. I have been trying to decipher problems and fix them as I go. Today I got about 2 miles from the house, got a bad feeling, turned the car around and headed home. Got to a red traffic light put the car in neutral and stopped. When the light turned green I went to put the car back in first and the shifter won't move. Had it towed home. With the engine off the car will go into all four gears and reverse but strated it won't go into any. Did I kill something??????????????
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs, -
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what kind of gear oil goes in the 260z differential?
Last reply by Ed, -
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71 240z up to a month ago it was runninig good not perfect but good, then i hit a huge dog , i had time to just see it before it hit, it riped the wiring from me alt ,wich put it into over charge set off my alarm, wich tosted soon after, and so did the alt /volt reg,i got it home , next day it started but was missing,repaced the alt and reg..no charge found a huge maltie wire short in the loom to the vreg, cut out the bad rewired the vreg plug no charge, returned both for testing ..fryed replaced .. fryed got gm single wire100 amp alt, it charges at idle but the lights go dim as i drive what gives?? at idle its 13.21 at 1500 14.85 vlts what could draw it down while dri…
Last reply by 3RDZ, -
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1978 280z Head is back from the machine shop ( e88 head all new 280 valves and springs, hot cam) Arizona intake with a holley 390. MS square port header I am going to be putting it all back together this weekend. I am interested pinning the dizzy at full advance......How do I do this? I can see how to pin the vacuum advance with a small machine screw but doesnt this car also have a mechanical advance? If so how do I pin it? Do I need to remove the entire dist. to do this? How many degrees of advance do I need to set it at while at 3k rpm? What type of performance gains can you get by doing this? Thanx in Advance Jeff
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs, -
- 3 replies
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Hi all, I rebuilt my carbs 'cause I had the well known problem that there was a "rev limiter" at 5000 rpm. This problem was discussed in another thread up to 2 weeks ago. The engine now runs fine and the colour of the spark plugs is ideal, but when I have to stop for instance at a red light the engine starts to die (revs go down to 100 rpm) for a short time, than idle goes up to normal (700 rpm) again. I didn't have that effect before the carbs tuning. Any idea what is wrong and what I have to do? Thanks Rolf
Last reply by Doehring, -
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I believe the fuel pump relay is out on my 87 ZX. The fuel pump runs when I jump it out, however when I turn on the key it does not. The problem is that I cannot find the relay. The Chiltons manual I have only addresses the location of the relay for earlier models. I am starting to wonder if it has one, however the wiring diagram shows that it does. The fuel pump wiring was shorted out accidently by the previous owner trying to install underbody neons. If anyone can help, pleas do so. Thanks Rono
Last reply by mwz, -
- 3 replies
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Hi guys, im in a bit of a jam, ive put on a custom fuel injection system that uses webbers as throttle bodies but i cant get the thing to idle below 1800RPM. even when the butterfly's are closed off it still runs at 1800. is there anything after the butterfly's on webbers where air could be getting in? ive take the fuel needles out as there are now fuel injectors down stream.
Last reply by Bruce Woolmore, -
- 10 replies
- 1.8k views
(This is about a 78 280z.) My fuel pump went. I tested it to see if i could hear it run in the on position. I couldn't hear it run so i went to buy another one at a store 25miles away, I left the ignition on and now the car gets no spark. Has anyone had this prob before? Now my car won't start. I thought it was the ignition module, i found one swaped it and it still won't start. I think it is the pickup coil but i am not sure. i have spark from the coil but not the plugs I am stumped but out of time today and tommorrow i will try to replace the pickup coil.:cross-eye :
Last reply by thefastestz, -
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I took out my starter to paint my block and now I cannot remember where the main battery cables connect (on the starter)!! Can anyone please advise? Thanks a million, I really dont want to ruin the motor now that I have finally finished putting it together.
Last reply by escapedan, -
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HELP - I AM 5' 0" AND CAN'T SEE OVER THE STEERING WHEEL. DOES ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION HOW TO CHANGE OR OTHERWISE ADJUST THE ORIGINAL SEATS? IT GOES FORWARD ENOUGH - I JUST NEED THE SEAT BACK TO GO UP.
Last reply by sjcurtis, -
- 10 replies
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I've tried searching for an answer to my problem but came with no clear answer. It seems like FI cars have the same problem. My car is an early 1970 240Z with all stock components (except an alternator from a newer car, electric cooling fan, stereo, and alarm) Almost a week ago, my car ran perfectly with no problems. Now, it is difficult to start and seems to misfire. The engine revs roughly up to 3000-4000rpm when cold then it hits a "rev limiter" and refuses to go any higher. I figured it would be driveable, but it lacks too much power and I must slip the clutch to get the car moved out of the way. (I need to do this at "full throttle" doing 3000rpm) When the engine war…
Last reply by Bambikiller240,
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