Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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Ok first problem.... I have a wire that is heating up when I use my running lights. I am pretty sure that it is a short but I would think that a short would burn the fuse.. does anybody know of common places that shorts happen in this car. Second problem is an intemitant one... For some weird reson some times when I put the car in reverse the engine dies. It is almost as if a switch is hit and kills the car. I think that when ever this happens the tacometer doesn not work. when the tac does work it will go in reverse. I dont know if this in coincidence or related.... Any help would be greatly apriciated.
Last reply by LanceM, -
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ok, So i've only worked on push rod motors thus far, and I've got to put a new cam in my 240 Z. i imagine the overhead cam situation can't be any harder to do, maybe even easier since I don't have to pull the engine. But I'm just curious if there is anything in particulare i should know. I've got the new cam and the springs and the retainers. And this may be a long shot, but I was hoping somebody out there new the torque specs for the job. Thanks to anyone who would like to share their know how with a Z car novice. Parker
Last reply by carguyinok, -
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if someone can send me the Hanes page concerning the valves adjustement procedure, because i don't know which nuts to turn to adjust the play....Never seen model like this system on european car!!!! furthermore nuts are lock up.... i don't want to make a mistake!
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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Thought I had better start my 240 up after about 4 months of sitting still. Had a flat battery so while I charged it I went and got some new plugs, condensor, points, oil and oil filter. The car started fine, iddled as it should and revved freely up to 4,000 RPM. It all seemed fine until I got her out on the road and the car just died under load, could not get above 2,000 RMP. Went home and checked timing which was O.K and cleaned my S.U's and re-tuned them. Car still dies under load. Where do I look next. I gather its an electrical/spark problem. Do I need to get a new Coil? any advise would be greatly appreciated. Gavin
Last reply by biker, -
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I followed the video directions and installed a turbo oil pump on my '73 240z with a '78 280z engine. I removed the distributer, clamped the rod, removed the old pump, primed and installed the new pump and put everything back together. Everything went fine until I tried to start the car. Very slow cranking. I removed the distributor cap and it cranked fine. With distributor cap on it cranks very slowly. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks Bill Delaune
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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Dashboard Restorations Member EricB has a multi-unit shipment of 240Z and 280Z dashboard Pads leaving for restoration by airfreight in just a few days. Any other members interested need to contact him right quick to take advantage of the big freight savings he has negotiated. Anyone needing a reference as to the quality of the restoration work just contact member Alan Pugh or see his comments on the forum. You will need to hurry though. :classic:
Last reply by PrOxLaMuS©, -
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I need some quick help:stupid: The PO pulled the stock turnsignal flasher and put in some aftermarket one and I don't know what color wires go to which connector on the stock flasher unit. Please help? Does it matter? How do I tell the difference? BYW I have a 72 240Z build date 4/72 Thanks in advance!!! David
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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After 4 year of sleep, my baby take the road for the first time today, i have doing evrything that must to be done for running the engine again and put a new oil pressure sensor, the oil is new my oil pan was cleaning, new filter.... but it seems that the oil prssure is too low (the 1rst quarter of the mano the most of time and when i take to 3000 tr/min nearly the middle but after few time...) What is the right needle place when all is good????? 2- When i slow down i heard a meow sound from the rear, i suspect the R200 :dead: what can be done to test it??? ( there are some new 75W90 oil in it) Thanks B.PACCAUD
Last reply by Bpaccaud, -
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Alright...got my car running smoothly, now it turns out I've got a transmission problem. It turns out the vacuum line that connects to the manifold was loose, and leaking vacuum, causing the transmission to lurch at certain speeds depending on the throttle position. I re-attached the hose securely, and the car is much smoother, but it will still ocasionally lurch around during a shift. This is mainly at high speeds (45+). What more can be done to fix this? Is it possible the hose itself is leaking? What other parts could cause this to happen? I've read something about a "vacuum modulator" in the tranny. What does it do? I've got a 76 280z, auto tranny, stock. Thanks fo…
Last reply by kmack, -
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Anybody have an Idea how I can get the tie-rod ends apart? The outer tie-rods on my car were a little loose, the shop wanted $200 to replace them, now I know it would have been worth it. The outer end, the one with a castellated nut, is frozen (rusted) in place. It is firmly attached to the steering knuckle. I have cut the castellated nut off, and tried to hammer the bolt out. I've let it sit a few days with penetrating oil, and I've also tried heating it with a propane torch. Nothing gives. I am contemplating drilling out the center of the bolt, but this is going to be a lot of work. Plus I run the risk of damaging the recieving hole in the steering knuckle. I thought…
Last reply by baddriver, -
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hey all, My engine is hesitating between 5000 and 6500 rpms. can anyone tell me what to do, to determine wether it is fuel or a spark problem?? My motor runs sweet at the lower rpms, pulls hard, but when I hit around 5000 rpms or so it starts to hick-up (cuts in an out), on its way to red line. Is it starving for fuel? when I excelerate slowly it doesn't do it. Anyone have any suggestions?? I've set my timing, I've adjusted my valves (I'll check the clearance again if need be) I've balance my carbs. My plugs look good. I'm baffled.
Last reply by Dreco, -
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okay, I ran a complete search of this site, checked Chilton's, Haynes...not even the FSM had any info on this: I replaced my calipers (when I ordered from the local parts store, I thought they'd be new, but they were rebuilt ones). the picture explains my problem. I had my rotors turned, too, so I took note of exactly how everything came off, and I put it all back on the same way. this rebuilt passenger-side caliper...the outer half is riding on the rotor. I don't know much, but I know that's not good..plus being that I can't get the pad in. anyone know what to do? btw, on the subject of pads, when i removed all the hardware (pins and anti-sqeal shims/springs) I…
Last reply by Bambikiller240,
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KenFirch
