Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Alright...got my car running smoothly, now it turns out I've got a transmission problem. It turns out the vacuum line that connects to the manifold was loose, and leaking vacuum, causing the transmission to lurch at certain speeds depending on the throttle position. I re-attached the hose securely, and the car is much smoother, but it will still ocasionally lurch around during a shift. This is mainly at high speeds (45+). What more can be done to fix this? Is it possible the hose itself is leaking? What other parts could cause this to happen? I've read something about a "vacuum modulator" in the tranny. What does it do? I've got a 76 280z, auto tranny, stock. Thanks fo…
Last reply by kmack, -
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- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Anybody have an Idea how I can get the tie-rod ends apart? The outer tie-rods on my car were a little loose, the shop wanted $200 to replace them, now I know it would have been worth it. The outer end, the one with a castellated nut, is frozen (rusted) in place. It is firmly attached to the steering knuckle. I have cut the castellated nut off, and tried to hammer the bolt out. I've let it sit a few days with penetrating oil, and I've also tried heating it with a propane torch. Nothing gives. I am contemplating drilling out the center of the bolt, but this is going to be a lot of work. Plus I run the risk of damaging the recieving hole in the steering knuckle. I thought…
Last reply by baddriver, -
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
hey all, My engine is hesitating between 5000 and 6500 rpms. can anyone tell me what to do, to determine wether it is fuel or a spark problem?? My motor runs sweet at the lower rpms, pulls hard, but when I hit around 5000 rpms or so it starts to hick-up (cuts in an out), on its way to red line. Is it starving for fuel? when I excelerate slowly it doesn't do it. Anyone have any suggestions?? I've set my timing, I've adjusted my valves (I'll check the clearance again if need be) I've balance my carbs. My plugs look good. I'm baffled.
Last reply by Dreco, -
- 25 replies
- 3k views
okay, I ran a complete search of this site, checked Chilton's, Haynes...not even the FSM had any info on this: I replaced my calipers (when I ordered from the local parts store, I thought they'd be new, but they were rebuilt ones). the picture explains my problem. I had my rotors turned, too, so I took note of exactly how everything came off, and I put it all back on the same way. this rebuilt passenger-side caliper...the outer half is riding on the rotor. I don't know much, but I know that's not good..plus being that I can't get the pad in. anyone know what to do? btw, on the subject of pads, when i removed all the hardware (pins and anti-sqeal shims/springs) I…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 12 replies
- 1.5k views
As some of you might remeber I snapped a uni-joint a short while ago. Last night I thought I did another one but now I'm not so sure. Here's what happened; I was giving the car a bit of a workout for about half an hour and arriving at my destination I put it in reverse to park it. I didn't accelerate really harshly as I was in reverse but I heard the same type of crack like the time the uni-joint broke. Anyway, I had dinner and proceeded to go home expecting the car to seize up any minute so I was driving well below the speed limit and staying out of the way of traffic just in case. Nothing happened until I was close to home when it happened again but this time it was in…
Last reply by That Ozzy Guy, -
5-Speed Problem 1 2
by dohc- 21 replies
- 3.1k views
Arrrgggghhhh. This car is driving me crazy. I've finally got the brakes to an acceptable level and started to drive my Zed again only to (I think) destroy syncro on second gear. I've got a 5-speed gearbox (the B type I think it's called?) that has always been fairly tight on all the gears, but never enough to worry about until now. When I make a quick change up from first to second I get a little crunch, nothing major and I always thought it meant the syncro was going. Now however I can't change down from third unless I match the revs. ie it needs to be reving at around 4500 to get it in. If I try and change any other way it makes a sound similar to trying to put it into …
Last reply by Alan Pugh, -
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
My 75 280 started running rough about a month ago, after checking everything i know how to I still coudn't find the culprit, I then decided to start replacing all the usuals, ended up putting in new plug wires, distributer cap, rotor, fuel filter and cleaned the plugs [ had less than 5000 miles on the plugs ], the end result was that it ran a tad better but nothing significant, after thinking it over i decided to try a new set of plugs [ NKG's ] and i was not to hopeful about the outcome...well, i was surprised, it started right up and ran like a top. Forgot to tell you that when i pulled the plugs to clean them they were black all over. Back to the current situation; I…
Last reply by seehunt, -
- 6 replies
- 2k views
OK, I know Rebello Racling is over in Pacheco, but can anyone recommend a shop closer to San Jose or better yet, on the Peninsula? I've definitely got a bad head gasket. As I suspected last night when it wouldn't turn over, today I found the #6 cylinder hydro-locked. I'm sure it also has bad valve seals and needs hardened seats installed. Yes, it would be best to rebuild the entire engine, but I'm not ready to do that yet. Right now I just want to get the head work completed. Any suggestions from some of the locals around here would be appreciated. TIA.
Last reply by DHunt592, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
So I decided to replace my water temp switch today,.yesterday i called around and found a store that had all my parts in stock! When i got there they had none! So i drive around a little bit and find the switch, so i think. I go home , a wrnch slips , crunch goes the sensor next to it! I finish pulling off the swith and its like , hmm, its just a cap with a sensor in it and doesnt look anything like the one I bought. So I set that aside and take out the one I broke, JACKPOT. The wrong part was for the one I broke! Anywasy,.after driving around for a few hours today to get a few parts and order the temp switch. Im lookin for a place in the seattle tacoma area that might c…
Last reply by nutxo, -
- 3 replies
- 2.9k views
We pull the release and the hood goes up part way but it does not spring up far enuf for us to get a hand under and push the latch up to open it. We have tried pulling the release cord WHILE someone else tries to pull up on the hood and push the open latch. NOthing works. What to do? P.S. It has been cranky for a while - it would fail to close even tho it seemed it had closed, and then it would pop open while we were driving. To prevent this we would (my wife especially) slam the hood down real hard - she admits it. Thanks!
Last reply by Daniel, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
I have goten almost all of the old parking brake cable off my 73' 240z and i finally got the propellershaft off too.. The part where i am stuck is the connectors that hold the parking brake cable to the car. there are 4 of them. 2 are next to both rear drums then theres 2 more up inside the tunnel area where the cable gets latched on by the y piece connector. I got the first 2 off next to the wheels but I can get the last 2 inside the tunnel. How do you do it? Is there a special way or tool that you have to use? I got the first 2 out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I cant use that up inside the tunnel.. any ideas would greatly help... I have a week to get this car on the…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 17 replies
- 2.1k views
My z was jus stolen about an hr before i got home from work. I live in Oakland CA. Its a white 280z with no bumpers and a front air damn. Has damage on driver side door and fender. It has black mesh wheels on the back and gold mesh wheels on the front. Help me out guys!
Last reply by tanny,
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