Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.4k views
have a '73 240 with an L-28 and a new 5-speed. Runs through 1-4 just fine, but will slip out of 5th after 5-10 seconds unless I hold the shifter in place. have just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder. Any ideas?
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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i have no idea whats wrong with my heater. it blows air as cold as can be but when i switch it to heat it will continue to blow air the only problems is that it wont get hot:dead:
Last reply by zoom240, -
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I am rebuilding a 1971 L24 engine and am installing a remanufactured oil pump. The old and the new pumps are identical except the new pump doesn't have the angled oil hole that is on the cylindrical part of the oil pump housing that inserts into the front cover. Instead, the new pump has about a 3/16" hole that goes through the cylindrical housing to the tang area inside the housing where the distributor/oil pump drive shaft meshes with the oil pump(on the old pump, this hole has a metal plug in it). What does the oil hole on the old pump lubricate and will the hole on the side of the new pump accomplish the same thing? I don't want to install this pump if this is cr…
Last reply by tanny, -
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Yep now my driver's side door won't latch. I took the inside cover off and got a good look and found this (notice the broken spring hanging in mid air): Also, I found these laying in the bottomof the inside of the door (except the screwdriver). If anyone can identify anything that looks like it might be important I'd appreciate it. This is what the latch looks like from the outside. I've never had the dovetail and the door has always worked perfectly. How do I fix my door not latching problem? Is the spring the cause? I can't even get the old spring out of the door - how do I get to it? Thanks in advance for helping befor I fall out of my car .
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 6 replies
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Hey Guys, I wanted everyone's opinion on this Z that I'm considering buying. Here are the details I got from the seller... The engine: 280 Electronic ignition, Mallory fuel pump, Fuel regulator by Mikuni Chromed Valve cover Polished Water Pump, etc K&N Air Filters (3) Lightened Fly Wheel New HD Clutch & Pressure plate (Name I don't recall) Header, Thermal wrapped (Name I don't recall) Suspension: Upper and Lower Sway bars, New Urethane bushings Koni Struts, Springs ( Name ?) Wheel Camber adjustments Roll Bar Body: Professionally flared - like the picture below Ultimate (this picture is…
Last reply by Ed, -
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I can't make out the wiring diagrams in the stupid Haynes book. I am wanting to add the electronic ignition from the ZX I gutted. I have the engine harness out of the '73 and I want to add wiring if necessary. Also what if any components are necessary to ensure proper operation and tach ops. I have swapped out the engine (less the EFI, I'm sick I like my SU's) and I could use some guidence. I have read some other posts on this subject but have come up short.
Last reply by beandip, -
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Go figure as soon as it starts to approach winter and get cold, my 240 decides I don't need heat. I've had no problems with the heat since I've had the car up until now. Suddenly the other day, I have no heat. The car is warming up normally, coolant is good, tubes all look good, fuses look good, even the hot water supply tube is hot. NO HEAT. Any ideas? What should I check next?
Last reply by Si|v3r72, -
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Can anyone assist availability of r/h outside door handle for 1970 240z
Last reply by eskee, -
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my borther and I have been rebuilding the engines in our z cars, his for the fun of it, mine because it started leaking water into the combustion chamber (still not shure if it's a cracked block, head, or bad gasket) my question is this; both cars are suposedly 1971's but my engine has flat top pistons and his has valve recesses, both engines had E-88 heads on them and the bores seem the same (haven't accually measured) so you can understand my confusion. any info would be helpful
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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I'm in the process of removing the interior panels of my '75 280z. I can't seem to break loose the bolt that holds the shoulder strap to the roof. And I don't want to damage or break it by forcing it. Is it normally hard to break loose, or could the threads be left hand? Thanks, Rob
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 3 replies
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I'v been haveing so many rear end problems with this Datsun its starting to p--- me off. My rear end mount is bad, I know that. I wanted to go with a solid one, so everyone suggested I just do the angle stock idea, so I did. Well, first peice wasn't thick enough, and the rear end bent it. Well, I finally got some thicker today, and installed it after much difficulty, only to take it out once and dump the clutch and take off hard, and on my shift into 3rd my damn loud thump is back again. Take it home, and one of my bolts had been spripped out. I don't know what to do anymore? Can I take it to a shop and have it welded in place? If I do will I be able to remove the rear en…
Last reply by smg1404, -
- 8 replies
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i know that you're all going to tell me to take it to a shop because its tough to diagnose a funny noise without hearing it, but i really have no money to get it checked out. this happens sometimes when i'm driving, usually only when accelerating: i get a noise like something is rubbing very fast on an irregular surface, or maybe like a metal plate is shaking loose. it seems to be coming from the front right side of the engine. i jacked it up and checked things out, but nothing is loose. it is rythmic, and gets louder/faster when i put on more gas, when i let go of the gas, it goes away. like i said, i have very little money, but plenty of free time, please gimme someth…
Last reply by 2ManyZs,
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