Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,100 topics in this forum
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When I was young I had problems telling the time. It appears that this problem still exists not knowing my clockwise to anit clockwise. I went out to do the valves on Friday arvo in preparation for a weekend hillclimb. Then I noticed the the rotor goes anti clockwise. I now know why I have the manual close at hand whilst doing work on the Z. PS The hillclimb that I was at had a Z car come 2nd overall out of 135 entries including open wheelers, Mustangs, 7 litre fords, WRX and Evo5's. The guy flys, wish I had some of his componentry and a dash of his skill. The onylthing that could outdo him was a rotary in a 25kg frame! Biker
Last reply by biker, -
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I have a 1973 240 and am rebuilding the engine. When I measured the rod bolt threads to determine whether I have 8 or 9 mm bolts, I came up with 8mm. From what I read the 1973 is supposed to have the 9mm bolts(I think). Any ideas as to what happened and should I torque these to the lower value as specified for the 8mm bolts. Are the threads where I am supposed to measure? Thanks, Vic.
Last reply by tanny, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Hello All, I just got the CDROM. Where might I find info on 280z's? All I could find was 240z stuff...at least in the brake area. Thanks, Joe
Last reply by fdskipper, -
- 14 replies
- 2.5k views
Hi guys, I need a hand. I'll give you a bit of back ground first to try and set the scene and make it a bit easier to help me. I've just swapped the L26 engine out of my auto parts car (both 260Z 2+2) into my daily driver (5 spd manual). This engine has the good SU's and when I stopped my parts car (about two weeks before doing this swap) and it ran fine. The old engine had the flattops but I don't think that's relevant... Now that I've got it into my daily driver, all hooked up and ready to go but turn the key and it won't fire. It turns over fine, all the electrics are good but still no life. I've checked the fuel pump (electric) no problems, after trying for a bit …
Last reply by dohc, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Ok Guys, In the morning I am pulling the 5spd out of 75 280 and installing it into my 72 240 is this pretty painless? Anything speacial I need to do to acomplish this. Second, I am have some oil leak out of the rear main of the engine on the 72 240. I previously owned a 69 mustand with a 351w in it. I was able to replace the rear main without pulling the engine apart. Is this possible on the L24 with the tranny out.
Last reply by FROZN, -
- 1 reply
- 1.7k views
Here's my story. I have a 73 240Z with a 5-speed 76 L28 FI motor. I went overseas for a few years leaving the car in storage. I totally rebuilt the motor when I got back, and now I seem to be having the wierdest problems. Two are the real biggies to me. 1) When I rev the engine in nuetral I can hit 7K with ease. When driving the engine chokes at 4K (simalar to when there's a hole in one of the airflow meter boots. A preveous problem)and will not excelerate unless I get off the gas and press down again. This gets progressively worse until I can no longer drive the car. I have a 76 factory service manual, my timing is correct, new spark plugs, XR-3000 ignition, PS-91 coil,…
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
Hello--I have been having cold start problems. This is a relatively new problem. 1972 with stock SU's. When it did start, it was running very rough like on 4 or 5 cyls. When it was starting it would turn over fine but it would sort of sputter in starting. Sort of a kachung, kachung, kachung, sputter, die, several times until it started and then it would barely turn over. When it did catch it would run very rough. Got it to a shop and they found that the front choke was stuck and the front three plugs were badly fouled. Unstuck the choke and replaced plugs with 6 new NGK's. Tweeked the carbs and got on the road and the car ran sweet. The morning after it started…
Last reply by ZwolleY, -
- 7 replies
- 2.4k views
Well, after much cussing and fussing with those rear brake drums on my 74 260Z, trying to remove them, I've deceided to ask for help. I followed the Haynes manual and that didn't work. I backed off the shoes adjuster wheel all the way, disconnected the E-brake, used Liquid Wrench (lots!), tried heating the drum with a torch, and a little hammer action (no fins were hurt). What have I missed? Also, is a rear disc brake set up from a 280ZX a direct bolt up to my 260Z? Britt Boyette
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 0 replies
- 1.1k views
I have a 1973 240 Z with the following components: MSD 6A, mallory distributor and plug wires, NGK Iridium spark plugs, pertronix ignitor II and Flamethrower II coil. The car failed to start a couple of weeks ago. I replaced the points and coil with the pertronix units and the plugs with new Iridium units. The Pertronix was wired according to the MSD instructions using the ballast resistor to ensure a proprer signal to the tach. The coil generates spark, however the plugs aren't getting it. Specifically, they did get spark, then abruptly stopped after one last bright spark. The only answer is either wiring, which i went over with a fine tooth comb, or the pertronix unit.…
Last reply by LadyZ, -
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
i'm driving an 83 zx n/a as my daily beater and the sensor light is now on-can anyone clue me as to how to turn it off? thanks!
Last reply by Ed, -
Ok, as you can tell Im new here. I am currently a member of the RX-7 forum and the owner of an 85 rx-7 gs and an 81 rx7 gsl. I have finished the mechanical side of the restoration for the 85 and am looking for a new project car.I have always enjoyed the early z cars but dont know which to choose. If some of you could post some features of each car and even some pics it would be mutch apprecieated. I need engine specs (hp, top speed, interchangeability) body differences common problems with each and good reference sites TIA peace
Last reply by Ivan, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
i have piping that is about 2 3/4 inches wide, and i am afraid that it sits too low (because the car is lowered 3 inches) and I think that it will be a problem. Are there any alternatives that i can do with the exhaust so that it still sound good and performs well?
Last reply by k2chronic,
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