Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
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Hi all ‘74 260Z here. I would like to replace the thermostat housing, water temp sensor, thermostat w new. As you can see in the image, the old housing has a tube/hose to the manifold (a/c connections have been removed by PO), and the new housing has provisions to drill and thread the same tube/hose. I’m not sure if I should keep the old tube connected - drill/thread, or ignore it and plug the hole going to the manifold. I’m replacing the components because the temperatures are reading poorly since I purchased the car. Thank you, Jim
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 7 followers
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I have a 280z with an L28 and triple webers, I recently went to the track and my car caught on fire, it looked like the fire was coming from my headers or from the middle weber and the fire started about 3 minutes after I spun out and was idling for about 2 minutes in the pits. For now I want to assume the fire started due to oil dripping onto my headers after spinning out and the fire probably seeped through the middle weber and ignited there too. (The car is okay I drove it home two hours away with no problem just 2 hours after, nothing looks damaged and the car drove like nothing happened) I have a K&N breather for both the valve cover and the crank cas…
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 780 views
Hey, just yesterday I finally got my hood open after 8 months, did a oil change, put in some new gas, and charged the battery. I decided I was going to take the car out for a spin to find out I had no pressure on the brake pedal. I didn’t see any leaks, fluid is full. I’m going to put on some new calipers, and brake pads due to how old and how many holes the seals on the calipers have. Plus bleeding the entire system. Any tips or pointers to look out for? Clutch seems fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
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I used penetrating oils, heat and light hammering....drum is stuck. Maybe I need a puller? Ideas? Thanks 12/71 production...finned probably aluminum
Last reply by iscnetwork, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
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I'm really struggling to install a new pair of these seats into my 5/71 240Z. Removed the stock seat with it's sliders. Attached the Corbeau sliders to a seat. Just don't see a way to install the nuts that hold the rear of the slider to the stock frame. Have installed/tightened the nuts for the front of the slider to the frame, but having only two fastening points seems sub-optimal. What's the install procedure, because I don't know it.
Last reply by kenward1000, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 552 views
Havent had this experience in a long time, but I'm sure it happens to the best of us.... my specs: 1972 240z. MSD ignition system installed recently, original distributor. New plugs last year, new wires. For the last few months, I've had periodic issues at low RPM(stopped at lights) with the car stalling; once I'm over 1500 RPM, engine has run smoothly. Stalled at a light, and would not start. Took the air filter cover off, blew it out, and it still didnt start. Eventually had it towed back to my garage (today). I never have had to address the fuel pump, as I've never had problems with it. Fuel pump very audibly runs, and I smell fuel when goosing …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 4 followers
- 36 replies
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Some of you may have seen my other post about vapor hose replacement. That was a great success, replaced all the vent hoses and both tank side and engine side fuel hoses, new filter, new tank sending unit, filled the tank everything works great and started on first key turn. Now the horror story. So that was a few days ago and my next task was to change the oil and filter. So I peak under there today to start the process and see a nice drip spot rear side of engine. I'm thinking its maybe a rear seal that dried out as the oil has been in the pan for quite some time (hasn't started since November). Well It's way worse. I found the PO had repaired the hard fuel line …
Last reply by AK260, -
- 8 followers
- 21 replies
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PROBLEM: Brakes too stiff. Long braking distance required. SUMMARY: After changing adding a new booster a while 1-2 years back: Dual Diaphram 7 inch 15/16 bore and a 15/16 MC. Had to drill new holes but it fit. The brakes had a stiff pedal, and the bolts came out on the MC side after a while. Took the booster to a repair expert (booster revamp shop - who took the unit apart (booster) and pressed and welded the pressed on bolts, then put the booster back together, and told me it was good. I installed it back, used the tool to gauge the 20 mils gap between the MC and the Booster rod and installed it. Bled MC, then all 4 breaks in order of distance. The brake…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 729 views
Anyone have a 1972 choke lever for sale. Or can you modify the metal lever to receive a 1971 lever
Last reply by inline6, -
- 2 followers
- 18 replies
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Hello, I am rebuilding an L28. I have an N42 block with an N47 head that I bought a couple months ago. I noticed one of the exhaust liners on the head pretty much fell out. I am wondering if I will run into any issues if I go head and remove the rest of the exhaust liners and if that will effect passing smog in any way or if I will run into any issues with how the car performs.
Last reply by Ownallday, -
- 4 followers
- 7 replies
- 930 views
I am back trying to start the 280 after almost a year off. Here is where I am: 1. The the engine to run without the injectors or fuel pump 2. Have replaced all relays related to the starting system. 3. Purchased an ECU and the resistor units. Have not installed yet 4. Fuel pump will not run through the system only when I do a direct connection to it only Question: 1. Should the injectors show continuity across the two connectors. 2. Any next steps to offer.
Last reply by James Que, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 964 views
About 13 months ago I parked my 240z after a short test drive. A few days after I parked it I believe there was transmission fluid on the floor. I checked the dip stick cold and it seemed good. I Have not been able to get the car to actually start to warm it up. But the immediate problem is when I put the car in neutral the car still seems to be in park. It is stuck. Cannot roll it. I know this is very limited information, but there are a lot of experts out there. Any suggestions. Thank you in advance.
Last reply by Don McNabb,
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