Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.7k views
73' 240z- I blew a fuse to the park tail part of the amp section on fuse block when I was gettin on the gas, this killed all gauges and turn signals. I replaced the fuse and the amp gauge went wacko full tilt + a million on the gauge, so I thought voltage regulator, This is the second voltage reg in a year. The voltage reg is seperate from the Alternator, so I replaced it, it started out OK til I gave it some gas and the amp gauge increased with the RPM's. This lasted a short time, the gauge spiked a couple of times and then settled on the center. The gauge goes to -Neg when the lights are on and will not move above center with any other conditions. The alternator checked…
Last reply by Dale B., -
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- 2 replies
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i got a 73 240z and have recently put in a stereo. After i got it all in i found out that the heater blower motor wont come on. I did clean up some of the wiring in there when putting in the stereo but dont think i disconnected anything. I was wondering if anyone new what wires to check? I think once before the ground wire came off the motor a mechanic told me but i dont know which wire that is? Anyone got a clue? anything else i could check? It really suck driving in the winter withourt a window defroster. Also i noticed that my rear defroster still works but takes forever to defrost the window. Is there a way to put a little more juice in it to defrost the windows quick…
Last reply by Z-Priv, -
- 1 reply
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Help please. I have just picked up a rust free 73 240z the person who had this car before me put alot of work in her with 3 into 2 headers cam valves well you get the pic. any how with the new race cam and rockers and so on will the clearance settings still be .012 and .010 when hot?
Last reply by John Coffey, -
vapor lock
by Sonic- 6 replies
- 2.4k views
i was driving my 1973 240z up a winding medium grade highway, on a hot day (about 85 to 90 degrees ferenhight)in S.California; then it lost power and the rpms were becomig irregular, going up and down! i put it in 1st gear but that didn't seem to help! i got worse when i pushed on the gas. it also didn't help when i put on the choke i all the gages read mostly normal 'cept for the engine temp. was about 75% but it seemed normal since it was a hot day. later when it cooled down i reparked it and it seemed fine? in case you need to know when i purchased this car the original '73 carbs. were swiched with '71 carbs. and the smog junk was removed, mostly, and everything else i…
Last reply by Daniel, -
- 7 replies
- 2.7k views
Hoping someone can help me... Last week I pulled my air filter and most of the hoses attached to it to put on Ram-Flo air filters. I plugged all of the open air galleys, disconnected the smog pump belt and it's hoses (left the pump bolted in) and it ran great. In fact, it ran better, smoother, and faster than it ever had. No popping or spitting. So, today I unbolted the smog pump, disconnected the remaining hoses, backfire valve and the hoses attached to it (which in theory, were already detached). I plugged the remaining air galleys and fired it up with excitement, only to have it cough spit, and run like crap. I have a feeling that it's just the air/fuel mixture and tim…
Last reply by PetesPonies, -
- 3 replies
- 2.4k views
Question, my motor was smoking I looked at the plugs and #3 was covered with oil, all others looked good. I found that the rocker arm for the intake was completely off the valve spring!!! So, why would oil leak down and should I pull the head and get it checked out? What are your thoughts? Burned Valve? Rings can't be washed out because intake was closed...Help!!
Last reply by wburstein, -
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Capital DOH! I changed the latch mechanism on my '71 240. I test closed the hood, 1/2 way and the latch seemed fine. I lefty it barely bolted in, so that when latched it centered itself. Then, in an act of pure stupidity, I shut the hood all the way. The latch works great. Too well, in fact! No, I can't open it!!! HELP, how can I get my hood open? The cable just seems to be stuck:( I have pulled on it with all of my might, and it didn't budge... Any idea?
Last reply by Daniel, -
i have a 72' 240 with 83' 280zxt drivetrain. the engine has a LOT of mods and runs 11.6 sec 1/4 miles. problem is when i launch the car squats so much that my tires scrape the wheel wells. does anyone know what type of spring and/or strut would cure this? i do not want to lower my car.
Last reply by wburstein, -
- 1 reply
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Help! I got my E-88 head back from the machine shop the other day. Instead of having a nice clean shaven look, I got back a dirty head and a box of parts. The water passage near the #1 cylinder has corroded, and is into the head bolt passage I think. The corrosion has not penetrated to the combustion chamber, but is quite close... About 1/8" or so. FYI, the #1 cylinder was where the L-24 blew it's head gasket. The machinist, who was actually a Honda Acura specialist said that he might could weld it in, and then mill it down, but didn't recommend it. Is this head worth saving? I would love to keep this head, because for some reason I have grown attached to it:-)
Last reply by wburstein, -
- 5 replies
- 2k views
I have a 71 240z, that cuts off on me whenever I drive just a few yards. It idles fine. I checked the output of the fuel pump and it just sputters at best. I am new to zcars, so is this a problem with the pump or the lines and how do I tell. Should I stick with the mechanical pump or an electronic pump as some people have recommended. I am going to buy it soon so a quick response would be great. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Cliff. Elford, -
- 2 replies
- 1.5k views
I just got a prestine '73 240Z and the fuse to the brake lights just melted a hole in the fuse box!! What did I do to cause this?!! Has anyone else had this happen? I remember this same thing happening to my fathers '73 Z. Please Help!
Last reply by Dave Sommers, -
- 11 replies
- 2.8k views
No emergency , but, how many out there have had experience with using a slide hammer on the rear stub-axel? I do a lot of my own lighter work but this idea makes me wonder if I want to attempt it. The '71 Z in question has 250K miles on it and no indication that the rear bearings have been attended to since it came off the assembly line. I have no noise that I am aware of, the rear end is noisy enough that I can't tell for sure if the rear bearings are in need of help. Am I opening a can of worms attempting to pull these stubs and lubricating them or should I leave well enough alone and continue as they are? Your experiences would be appreciated. Both good and bad. Gee, a…
Last reply by Cliff. Elford,
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