Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Anyone in the LA Area (4500 block of Worth Street)? I am semi interested in a car in that area and wondered, not for anyone to go out of their way, if someone would be kind enough to inspect a 71 for sale.
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
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- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 982 views
I'm at the end of my rope here. I have a 1978 280z and I am having issues getting her to start. I have a spark at the spark plugs due to a tester I bought. My fuel pump works. It is timed correctly because I rotated the engine to TDC at #1 cylinder then put the dizzy back in it's place. All the spark plugs are timed in order at 153624. I took out the cold start valve and made sure it was spraying gas, it does. Although, upon putting it back in the rubber seal broke so now it sprays a little gas everywhere. I tried to circumvent this by just buying starting fluid and spraying it in the intake. Still no dice. My last option is to see if the fuel Injectors are sp…
Last reply by Patcon, -
Cadmium vs Zinc 1 2
by Patcon- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 1.5k views
I have seen this discussed a number of times on the forum. Has there ever been a definitive answer? Was the hardware on the car originally cadmium plated? I have never really been able to determine if that was in fact the case. I have been having some health issues lately and am trying to run down possible sources of exposure to heavy metals. Cadmium being one of them. Thanks, Charles
Last reply by zclocks, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
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Hi guys, I'm adjusting my cam/valve timing on my L28 and since it's the first time I have a few questions I hope you guys can answer for me. 1. Which of the 5 marks should I use on the camshaft pulley? See picture. Some sources say the first and other sources say the second. It doesn't really matter with setting the chain on the camshaft but it does matter a lot with reading the timing notch and grove on the camshaft sprocket. Which brings me to question 2. 2. Reading the timing notch and grove on the camshaft sprocket is clearly a very precise thing but how can I do this accurately? Just 1/20" (1mm) rotation on the crank makes a lot of difference on readin…
Last reply by Reinier, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 756 views
Took the day off and decided to take the old girl for a spin, drove it about 3 miles and then it died as if its out of gas...right next to a gas station, pushed her in and put in $20, It was strange ..I just put in 4 gallons last weekend and drove it maybe 5 miles. Any way, the fuel pump is working (electrical) but no fuel gets to it (got a glass filter pre pump) History: up to 2 years ago the car set indoors for 18 years in socal, when I drained the old gas (2 years ago) it was very clear and chunk/rust free, since then it was a strong runner with zero issues, I don't drive regularly it but do try to start and drive it at least twice a month. I'm suspecting tha…
Last reply by tzagi1, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
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Hello, I have a purchased a 1970 240Z. It is in boxes and I am just getting started on the restoration and I would like to verify the vin number with the engine block that came with the car. I am missing the plate in the engine bay on the tower and would like to keep it a matching numbers car if it is the original block. Based on what I have been able to find I think it is the original block but 100% confident that it is. Could someone please help me verify?? Vin #HLS-30-02884 Block #L24-005300 Thanks!
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 21 replies
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Im about to install my newly rebuilt head onto the block but before i removed the head prior to the rebuild i didn't set my timing to TDC with the cam lobes pointing upwards. The picture i attached is where it sits currently. I do know that the engine goes through tdc twice during the cycle so i think another turn will make it the correct TDC. Right now my head cam timing is in the correct position with the front lobes pointing upwards. Do i simply just install the head and then crank the engine slowly till it reaches the next tdc cycle? Any help would be great lol.
Last reply by fairladyz432, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
I have recently taken ownership of a 1978 280z, original motor and everything. But, I am having a power issue with the fuel pump wiring. At the relay, I am getting 12V into the relay (the green/blue wire), but only about 3.4 volts out through the other green blue wire. My question is, is this a simple grounding issue, if so, where it the ground for the fuel pump exactly? I have looked at the wiring diagram still my eyes crossed and I have determined that the fuel pump is grounded inside of the ICM with a few other electrical items. So would my best option be to just cut the grounding off before it splits and just screw it onto the chassis for a ground? Would love your guy…
Last reply by FairAbrocoma, -
- 4 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.9k views
Hey guys, my 240z pulls to the right if I brake really hard. The car is bolt and nut restored, means all brake system components (except brake booster) are brand new. I didn't notice this issue during the first 1000 miles, so I suspect something changed/failed recently. What I checked: Tire pressure, even wear Tension rod nuts (torqued them a little tighter) Rear left drum (no issue there) front left caliper and pads (even pad wear) The car drives straight as it should and the problem is really only noticeable with high brake pressures. Could it be an alignment issue? Or did I miss any other thing to check? Any help is highly a…
Last reply by german240, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 3.3k views
Dear members, Yesterday my dad just bought a Datsun 240z with a 280 motor swap. Today I figured I’d just check under the car for any oil leaks. And sure enough there was a substantial puddle of oil. Right underneath the u joint. Any one an idea what the cause could be of this leak? Some observations we made: tranmission whines a bit (is this normal behavior?), the car jerked a bit yesterday while accelerating but later stopped jerking. car has been restored (in 1998), recently new fluids: transmission, engine & diff. Also so the right floor pan is rather wet and greasy from underneath the car. I hope sincerely someone can help us out in fi…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.2k views
Anyone? Needs to be correct year. I know earlier models will fit.
Last reply by Frankenstein, -
- 9 replies
- 2.1k views
I finally figured that I should swap the struts in my car because they're 15+ years old. Found a deal for $40 off if you buy all 4 KYB, and I'm job hunting so it seems like the best way to go. I got the fronts struts removed from the car, was straight forward, I undid the steering knuckle/strut tube to avoid messing with the balljoint. NOW! I had to weld the gland nuts to remove them, which needed my pops to stand on the tires while I used multiple cheater bars on a pipe wrench to break the gland nut, and it took me almost 2 days of fooling around with the struts to remove one of them. I got this one out by putting the spring back on without the gland nut, then…
Last reply by heyitsrama,
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