Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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Does anyone out there have a copy of the original 1973 V-3 fuel rail insulation modification instructions that I can get a copy of? Thanks, Mark
Last reply by esmit208, -
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- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 916 views
I am aware of three detents on the sandwich plate. Two on the driver's and one on the top right. Can someone tell me which one is for 3rd gear? The top right one seems to be 1st and second.
Last reply by gnosez, -
This is a 1974 Datsun 260z, coolest car i have ever seen. It has a hotrod 2.8, dont know exactly what was done to the motor. But it forsure has a different cam and custom block on it. I paired it with a clean set of Dual Webers. Runs perfect 5-speed Nice set of wheels on it, original wheels come with it too. Brand new HALO headlights with black background Brand new Starter, Alternator, Elderbrock low pressure fuel pump. I cut out and fabricated the extra wheel well so it can have a bigger gas tank compared to the original. Heat works great Custom center console, with tray and wiring for newer radio. It has push to start system with wireless key fob, cra…
Last reply by Slane Jode, -
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- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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So, I follow a lot of Z guys in Japan on Instagram, check out these connectors for a fuel sender, I like the shape of the rubber cover. anyone seen anything like this? Mine are super stiff, and I cant get a good connection on the sender, seems to be finicky.
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 2.3k views
So the car never had one, just plugged. I got one from oreilys for $12. Looks weird, not the original can type. Anyway, with it unplugged from the sending unit, no gauge movement, key on or running. With it plugged in it does a full sweep with just turned to on, then when running goes to zero. Is the sending unit just bad?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 4 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.4k views
Hey guys, I know there might already be a forum about this but I haven't been able to locate it myself. I accidentally hooked a jumper box into my 1978 280z backwards and now the fuel pump as well as the dummy light for the alternator both stay on when the battery is connected. I thought it could be a fried ignition switch but even when I unplugged it they both stayed on. The car fires up and idles perfectly. If anyone could help me out I'd really appreciate it.
Last reply by psdenno, -
- 1 follower
- 25 replies
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So after Dave and I did quite a bit of electoral work my car is running a lot better. The engine missing is almost completely gone. Only problem is my engine RPMs are still dropping when I brake, when they start dropping in the 500 area my engine begins to miss. When I first start the car up and I'm letting it warm up if I push on the brakes i hear a distinct Whoosh/hissing sound. Then my engine rpms drop 100-300. This also happens when I put the car into neutral at stop lights and signs. Which sometimes puts my car into the danger zone RPM wise and stalls the car on occasion. Does this sound like the symptoms of a failing/leaky brake booster? I never thought anything of…
Last reply by Spikzsta, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.3k views
1972 240Z original pump failed replaced old fuel pump with a Carter Fuel pump worked great until yesterday and now it won't work at all changed fuel filter still no gas
Last reply by 72zoom, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
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1977 280z the last year of externally regulated alternators for the z cars. Over the winter I purchased some parts for the cars, one of which was the 60amp zx internally regulated alternator from Zcardepot to gain the reliability on the integrated voltage regulator . This is a common swap that I am sure has been done a thousand times or more. Of course, after removing my perfectly functional externally regulated alternator and installing the new one - no charge output. I used Blue's well documented wiring diagram to unplug the regulator and make the connections on the 6 pin harness connector to jumper sense line and complete the circuit. Pins 1 to 5 and 2 to…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
Need rubber fuel/brake line insulators and rear proportioning valve for 73 BRE Tribute 1 2 3
by 240260280- 3 followers
- 28 replies
- 2.7k views
I'm helping a club member finish his BRE tribute car. Some parts went AWOL during the decade at the body shop... no BS. Currently it is raised to run the brake and fuel lines but the owner lost the originals along with the fastening hardware. I'm currently looking for the rubber insulators and brackets to hold all lines. Grateful is someone has these parts for sale!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 2.3k views
Just bought a HS130. Wondering what kind of information you guys can tell me about the following tags. Thanks in advance!!
Last reply by JessHS130, -
- 4 followers
- 22 replies
- 16.2k views
Ok guys, I've have issues with my blinkers ever since I got my '78 280z a couple months ago. I've searched and searched on this forum and others. Please nobody reply with "try using the search" because believe me I have... a lot. I know this is a relatively common problem and most threads seem to point toward the hazard switch as being the root problem. At first my hazards worked, but irregularly. Sometimes they came on sometimes not. I took apart the switch and cleaned everything and sanded the contacts. Now hazards work perfectly every time no matter what. Then I took apart the blinker switch and noticed some issues. To be safe I sent it and the combo switch to Dave (@Z…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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