Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Triple M´s? 1 2
by Dan Hansen- 5 followers
- 19 replies
- 3k views
Working on my car got me thinking of replacing the SU´s to a rail of triple Mikuni´s.. Question is, where can i find a such a set-up besides the good old e-bay... Someone?
Last reply by gundee, -
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- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 772 views
Help! I got me a 73 240z. I did not have problem starting the car before but recently I when I start the car I only hear a click from the relay.Changed the ignition switch but no improvement. Clean the wires connected to the solenoid no change. But when I jump the solenoid the car starts. I am running out of ideas
Last reply by Mike, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 727 views
Hey Guys, Looks like I inadvertently deleted the images of the exploded view of my 280Z horn I am restoring. Based upon scouring the web, I've assembled them in the order I believe is correct. See image below. Can anyone confirm? Thank you! Cheers! ~Matt
Last reply by MattSaint, -
- 6 followers
- 26 replies
- 5.4k views
When I got my car I decided to restore the entire undercarriage, starting with the front and working towards the rear. First up... Front, nothing left untouched.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 885 views
RedBird (Jai) has been having intermittent starting problems for a few days. I listened to an audio. It sounded like a low battery problem. Battery is about a year old. Starter engaged and barely rolled the engine over. A couple of times it started fine. The engine starts and runs fine with a push. Today when Jai tried to start RB at the gas station, smoke came from under the hood. Inspection by someone says the wires going to the starter are burned. My long distance guess is a bare wire short circuit down by the starter. Possibly intermittently bleeding enough elec. to ground to deprive the starter. Today the wire must have welded itself to the chassis. Thoughts from the…
Last reply by esmit208, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 831 views
I just torqued my rear hubs down after replacing all of the bearings and seals and have different results from one side to the next. I had the bearings removed by a local shop, cleaned and repainted everything, bought brand new bearings and seals, and had the same shop press everything back together. The parts sat on my bench for a month and then yesterday I torqued the spindle bits down to 190#s. Both are more difficult to turn by hand than I expected, but the left one gives uneven resistance, which tells me something is wrong. I don’t think it’s the bearings because it seams to be in the same spot in the rotation every time and that shouldn’t happen if I had a flat spot…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
I dropped and restored the fuel tank. It now looks great; no rust and property coated. But to disconnect the vent hoses from the tank required the use of a long screwdriver to pry the vent hoses off the tank. That is because the '75 Z does not have an inspection panel for easy access to the hoses. Now how do I re-connect the vent hoses to the fuel tank?
Last reply by wheee!, -
- 8 followers
- 54 replies
- 5.5k views
hello all new here have been having problems ever sense i got the car my first problem was the distributor problems so i swapped that out for a 79 280zx one then swapped out the coil then the car ran more better the problem was that when it got up to temp it will go to a like limp mode it still did that after the new parts so after that i had an idea it was my transistor so i swapped that out for a gm control module then after that it only runs for a few seconds then shuts off and when i get it to run if i touch the gas it shuts off right away my car is a 1975 280z federal i get spark and fuel i dont know what it can be thanks for the help in advanced
Last reply by jesus, -
- 4 followers
- 73 replies
- 7.3k views
My 1976 280z won't rev past 3500 when not in gear, and about 2000 when in gear. When in neutral it will blow clouds of black smoke at higher rpm. It has run way to rich like this since I bought it. I have checked the wiring and sensors and rectified the issues I found to no avail. The water temp sensor was the first place I looked, I replaced it when I first got the car. It is giving the correct reading all the way to the ECU and has a noticeable effect when I unplug it. My only guess would be a AFM, I have two but don't know the condition of either. They both passed the ohm tests, could there still be an issue with them? If not what else could be causing such a rich cond…
Last reply by 240DL?, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 927 views
Does anyone know the bolt size for the crank on a Datsun 1600 Roadster from 1967? I have to help a guy break the engine free.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
- 1.2k views
This is for my '87 Hardbody Pickup so I apologize in advance. I am having tremendous battery drain every night, completely dead in the mornings and I can smell what smells like burnt wiring. The alternator is putting out 15.6 volts while at idle, measured at the battery terminals. After it sits for more than 30 minutes I have to roll start it or jump it off. After reading around a online I think the voltage regulator is shot. I haven't done the meter in line and start pulling fuses yet, maybe this afternoon I'll do that. Any advice would be appreciated. I like that old truck as much as my Zs, well almost. 300,001 back in November 2013. Now it has 350,…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 6.5k views
Have a question about removing the carburetor water cooling lines from my 72 240. I’m planning on plugging the holes in the intake manifolds, my question is about the rest of the circuit. Can I just block the lines where they come out of the block or do I still need to connect the lines together that go around the outside of the block. Thanks
Last reply by djwarner,
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