Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 8 followers
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Question - I have a 1972 240Z. Recently replaced stock radiator with a Motorsport Auto stock 3 row one because I didn't like the temp gauge reading. Also, replaced radiator cap and installed a 160 thermostat. My problem is that when on the highway at 60-70 MPH the temp needle goes to the "M" in "Temp" on the gauge. As soon as I get off the highway it comes right down to middle......I can idle for hours and it will stay in the middle.....it's only on the highway at highway speeds. It may be OK but it worries me when it starts to climb like that. I have another '72 Z car and it NEVER moves off the middle point on the gauge. Suggestions on what to try next?? Mayb…
Last reply by 87mj, -
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- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 925 views
I'm restoring a 72 240z that's been sitting for 10Yrs. I have power to the front running lights and head lights but no power to the rear tail lights. I have also gotten the brake lights and flashers to work. Car had been completely stripped down, painted and had new dash installed. I have also determined that the head/parking light switch is ok. Seems like I'm not getting juice where the dash harness and rear one connect.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 2.9k views
Hey Everyone, i know there are several threads on the wiper motor conversation but I am stumped. Also I have looked at the FSM but electrical diagrams are beyond me. ok enough of the disclaimers and I appreciate your assistance. We have a 2000 civic motor that works and want to use it to replace the motor on my 78 280z. The original motor worked two months ago but has now frozen up. I have gotten the new motor to run in either high or low but not high and low at the same time. By that I mean with the same wiring set up. The Z has the following wires: blue/red, black, yellow/black, blue/yellow, yellow and yellow/green. The motor has the follow…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.2k views
I just acquired a 1977 280 and the battery will not stay charged. If the cable is removed it stays charged. It will not light a test lamp but a multimeter shows a 12v draw when placed between the ground cable and the battery post. Also the tack is stuck at 3000 rpm with engine running or not. Thought someone might have had a similar problem and could offer a direction to go to find a cure for both problems. I'm a returning member after a brief departure. Sold one 2 years ago but could not stay away from the allure of the early Z cars. Thanks a lot for any help. John Butcher
Last reply by jeremy93ls, -
- 5 followers
- 16 replies
- 3.3k views
Wondering if anyone has installed a Stahl header? If so, have you had issues with the steering column clearing the header? Sent from my XT1585 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 4 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.3k views
I pulled my car into the auto body shop in school because I notice one taillight was dimmer than the other. I fixed the dim issue. But I asked my friend to see if my brake lights worked and he said they didnt. Also I was really low on brake fluid because my dad was removing the calipers to see why there was a lot of squeaking. I bought some today and poured it in. Do you guys think it's the brake switch? Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
- 10 followers
- 35 replies
- 5.1k views
I have a 81-83 5 speed in my 71. I have an ACT street, race clutch and pressure plate. I have a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and a 1 1/2 inch clutch collar. I have a new master cylinder and a new non- adjustable slave cylinder. The car hasn't been driven. When the engine is running, it won't go into gear. It's been bled and the clutch fork and pushrod seem to be working properly. Do I need a different length collar ? The clutch release bearing is on properly, isn't it ? Do I have to adjust it at the master cylinder ? The pushrod on the slave cylinder seems to go out all the way though. I dropped the transmission to see if I had the disc on backwards ( I didn't ) and to see w…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 26 replies
- 7.1k views
I just recieved my new pistons and rings from the machine shop for my NA l28. I had to have the walls slightly honed so I required oversized pistons. I recieved a set from safety pistons with hasting rings. The part number is "SP123 -2 nissan (datsun)81-83 : 280zx 6v 81-83 : l28e eng 2753cc / 86.0 mm" The set of pistons I got from the machine shop were dished unlike my original flat top pistons and my uncle, who I'm building my car with, said that's how they are supposed to be even though it will lower compression. Through all the reading and searching I've done I thought that you only really wanted flat top pistons on the NA set up and dished pistons for t…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 893 views
Hi all, I've searched various z forums and haven't run across anyone with experience with this wheel issue so here goes- if anyone has Enkei 92s 14inch with 15mm offset can you let me know if you needed to use any spacers to prevent the wheel from rubbing on the strut or anything else on a 72 240z? Thanks, Lisle
Last reply by lking240, -
- 4 followers
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
I have a set of headlight covers, the ones with the chrome bezel. Now, I need to know which way would be the best way to install them? self tapping or should I tap a tread? I would prefer the last solution? How did you do yours?
Last reply by moelk, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 2.3k views
Hey guys! I own a 1976 280z. My wife overheard me talking about the intellitronix gauges for our vehicles and recently purchased me the tach and speedo. I replaced the speedo cable with an electronic speedo sensor as well. While installing, I cut the white plug connectors off of the original gauge wiring and spliced them into the new gauge wiring. I identified the power, ground and signal wire within each connector. I then plugged them back into my harness. All works fine except my turn signals. It appears that leading from the turn signal portion of the combo switch there is a 2 connectors, one"white" and one "yellowish" connector. The "yellowish" connec…
Last reply by jersey280z, -
Headlight Gremlins 1 2
by PKD- 5 followers
- 19 replies
- 2.1k views
My 1976 280Z headlights won't turn on. We had the dash out to work out some other issues when we put it all back, the running lights work, as the turn signals, but there is no headlights. Checked the switch with multimeter and have full voltage at all wires when lights are turned on. The voltage turns off when off. No problems there. High beams don't work either. Checked voltage at high bean wire input at switch and only get 3.5 volts. Checked at Relay, the direct power is at 12+ but the input wire was also at 3.5volts for both high and lows. What did I disconnect or not reconnected properly under dash that could cause this?? They worked shortly after a drive around the …
Last reply by PKD,
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