Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 901 views
Is the angle of these calipers alright ? I see posts that the bleeders should point straight up. I can take them off to bleed them, so I can get trapped air out. Should they be pointing straight up just for bleeding purposes ? Thank you very much.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 891 views
Just picked up an '83 ZX turbo 2+2 at a yard sale. Body/interior are beautiful. Engine clean. However, the idle is rough and it chugs at low RPM and very poor acceleration. Nissan installed a new fuel pressure regulator but now it runs worse! Any suggestions what to do next? Any advice is very welcome.
Last reply by 83 Toy, -
- 2 replies
- 779 views
I need a NOS or good for restore by-pass tube for my Z. Anyone have one?
Last reply by timsz, -
- 2 followers
- 14 replies
- 5.2k views
I put an LED in my dome light and wasn't too impressed. Do they work good on the map light, if anyone has tried. Thanks!
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
Hey guys, final issue on this car before its all ready (besides bleeding tbe breaks). I have no turn signals or hazards. Not flashing on the dash, no lights. It seems like the wiring all goes through the hazard switch. I have power to the switch, I think its a green wire. But out of the switch I have no power at all. Doesnt matter whether its on or off. I also have no power to the flasher units. Either of them. Fuses are good. Connections are cleaned. Will a new hazard switch magically fix both issues? Or am I missing something here?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 2k views
Hi I have a 78 280Z that wont run. 2 Owner California car, very clean. I had it running when i bought it, but it always started rough, backfiring and sputtering. After replacing some hoses, I drove it about a mile and it started running very rough and had a major loss of power. I have checked for spark and fuel pressure (you can hear the pump running, too). It will crank and not even backfire or fire at all. Compression is also good. I do question the wiring because the pins on the ECU/ computer and the leads on the fuel injectors do not correspond with a wiring diagram I have. Faulty crank sensor? I have replaced all the easy ignition stuff- Wires plugs cap rotor. Really…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 3k views
Last free day before I start a rally next week and I realized that my spare tire won't fit my Toyota brake setup on my 240z! Need to get out to a pick and pull ASAP to grab a compact spare or .... to fit in my wheel well, who knows what Works? My wheels are 15" rikens with 205/50/15s. Brakes are Toyota 4 puck s12w and rears are 300z disk setup. Any input greatly appreciated and I will keep searching the archives! Chris
Last reply by Boomguy, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 818 views
Greetings from Pakistan I need technical advise , I’m in the process to restore my 260Z for that I have arranged 280Z as donor car, my question is, it it possible to swap engine, gear, suspension even interior or do I need 260z to do that.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 26 replies
- 5.3k views
I was changing the whole cooling system with my dad and in order to take off the thermostat we have to take the top part off, we got one bolt off and the last one broke on the top. As we used a bolt remover (drill Bit & Drill) we got I off but we were left with the bolt still in the other half. So we did the same on that half of it. And when my dad was trying to re-thread It, it expanded and got busted. So as we tried to take off the entire housing we got the first bolt closest to the sensors and that came out fine, the last one snapped and now it's just there still. I guess I'm going to have to buy a better one since this one I pretty beat up now. Sent from my SM-J…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 17 replies
- 8.6k views
So i recently deleted the EGR system on my 1977 Datsun 280z. The car sputters and loses power at higher RPMS only under load (as if it doesnt get enough air) My theory is: The egr system is ment to suck air from the exhaust system and push it back into the intake system. So the car is designed to have that 'extra' air coming in. So if i delete the EGR and leave the MAF as it is the car will lack air because the MAF does not know that the car is no longer getting the recycled air and is not compensating for it. And if i buy a new MAF then it might have the same problem because that MAF is designed to be on a car that is getting that extra ait from the EGR system.…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 911 views
I have a L28 with flat top pistons and stock boar. I also have mikuni triple dues carbs. Does anyone know what head i should use? I would like to keep the compression down so i can drive it on the street and use high test gas. It also has a mild cam (witch i don't have to use). Also the header ports are square that matched the n42 head exhaust ports that met its demise by the last owner. I also don't know if i can use those headers on say a p79 with round exhaust ports. Any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by Chad Hack, -
at wits end 1 2 3 4 8
by sweatybetty- 2 followers
- 87 replies
- 9.1k views
#1 piston at tdc, silver link on timing chain on #1 on sprocket, v-notch on cam sprocket lines up with the little line, timing mark on the crank pulley at 0*, and the rotor is centered on #1 plug wire with the distributor centered in it adjustment range. i cannot get this pig to run without back fire through the exhaust, unless i advance the timing to around 35-40 degrees at idle. with the timing set at 15* at idle, and i run the rpms from 2200 and up, i get continuous back-fire in the exhaust. any ideas?????????? ill post a video tomorrow thanks all sb
Last reply by sweatybetty,
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