Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 42 replies
- 18k views
Earlier today my 280Z started right up and idled just fine as it has done for the past 9 years. It was idling for about 5-10 minutes then it just dies. No stutter, no chugging, no nothing, just dies as if the spark randomly shut off. So I test my spark plugs, no spark. Inspect the distributor cap, looks good. Check the coil, no voltage signal from the coil to the cap. And that's my issue me thinks. So I pull the coil to test it. Primary circuit has 0.8 ohms resistance and the secondary has 22k ohms resistance. The values are a little out of range from what the book i have tells me, but they should still be close enough to send some sort of signal. I have 12vat the…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 711 views
Ok so I recently bought a 71 240 and am looking to find out what engine and head this thing has?? Where would it be marked and what would I look for to try and see what's in this thing.. when I bought it the guy didn't know much about it he only told me it had a 5 speed swap.. since then I've come to find out it has an r200 swap as well eibach coils are on it it has an Arizona z car intake with a Holley 4 barrel. It has a cool looking 6into 1header and flow master muffler. 4 piston Toyota brakes.. I wanna decide to know what engine this is.. any info is appreciated thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by TheErictag, -
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
- 2.9k views
Hello folks I'm kinda new here I recently bought a 240 z made in 9/71 the original transmission has been swapped for a 5speed and under hard acceleration when I grab 3rd gear it grinds for a sec and I think I should be able to get it in gear easier without the grind. I love my z it's been my dream car for the past 30 years or so since my godfather had one when I was young I've been hooked ever since. Any info on the trans is appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 896 views
I recently bought a 300zx 1991 N/A. It was running perfectly for about 3-4 months after i bought it then we had some pretty bad snow and it sat for a day and a half and everything started happening. Coolant leaks (fixed) horrible idle, i need to keep my foot on the gas when stopped or it will shut off, its lost so much power, and i did a compression test and they were all over the place (150,150,140, then 90,100,&50) i hope its not a head gasket but all signs point towards it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 4.7k views
2 days ago I noticed that my switch on my right lever (that controls the headlights driving lights etc ) was a little "sloppy" which is the only way I could describe it , I would turn it to the driving lights only at it would not work until I gave it a little extra push and it would work just fine . Now my driving lights won't come on , my dash is pitch black and even if I turn them all the way until my headlights come on , still no driving lights or dash lighting . Any ideas ok where should I start ?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
1975 280 Z
by GlennM- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 601 views
Hi! I own a 1975 280Z. The entire car is original, its a survivor! I like in Suffolk County, New York. I'm looking for a reputable repair shop that knows the vehicle - specifically, I want entire car checked and gone through mechanically before I begin paint and interior retro. Can anyone help?
Last reply by GlennM, -
- 3 followers
- 32 replies
- 4.2k views
Okay so I've been restoring a 75 280z and it's so close to being finished but for some reason my fuel pump won't kick in when the engine is turning over unless I direct connect a wire from the fuel pump to another wire source that is getting current. Is it okay to do this? If so, where can I hook it up so that it's safely getting enough power, isn't stealing too much power from something else and won't burn up any wires or create a huge electrical problem. Oh, also, where would I hook the negative side to?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 2k views
I have a 1980 looking for a temperature sending unit or might be called a thermo time switch
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
As I've followed the ongoing story of RedBird's gremlins, I've often wished I could just be there to get my grubby mitts on them, as I'm sure a lot of you have too. Several members have generously donated their time and parts to help out and continue to do so. There is an ongoing problem of a dying engine, only to restart again in 10 minutes. The most urgent problem to be dealt with is a slipping clutch. This repair should be made ASAP, as she's now driving borrowed transportation. To my knowledge a 76 doesn't have an adjustable rod and this clutch has been slipping for at least a year. The answer, it would seem, is a new clutch. Jai, Redbird's soulmate and daily driver, …
Last reply by gundee, -
- 2 followers
- 28 replies
- 3.8k views
My problem happened after i replaced my alternator belt, my 77 (technically a 76 because of its production date) used to run at around 180-185F , now the norm is 210-230 or really close to over heating after a 7-11 minute drive and considering the weather in california is fairly cool/cold this problem is really weird to me. I already replaced the thermostat and its gasket (no luck) there are no leaks , other things that ive done to my car during this period where , an hks smf filter (mostly for looks) and replaced some worn rubber hoses that run across my intake manifold (which fixed my bad idle) this car is my daily driver to college please any help is welcome.
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
- 4 replies
- 912 views
I have a handful of parts that I got with my car that were loose when it showed up. Can anyone identify them for me so I can install/replace them? See below:
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 4.6k views
I've searched on here, on hybridz and all over about the dreaded pertronix ignition tach bounce fix. I find lots of places talking about it but nothing on fixing it besides getting a different tach. I have the 3.0 ohm coil that came with the kit and I bypassed the resistor just like the installation instructions suggested. My 1973 240z now starts a thousand times better and faster and the throttle response is great and seemed to pick up some power. The problem for me is between 3000-5000 rpm the tach will drop to zero then bounce like crazy. I don't experience and problems with misfiring or the actual rev of the motor, just the tac. Has anyone found a solution to…
Last reply by Zpat,
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