Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
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New to the site, I've done a lot of Google but can't find the answer I'm looking for anywhere. Basically I'm rebuilding a california 1973 datsun 240z it has a e88 and p30. As far as I'm aware it hasn't been rebuilt. I purchased some new pistons however these came with no valve reliefs whereas the ones in the engine do have valve reliefs. I'm guessing that the valve reliefs are there for a reason. Maybe due to the 73s having bigger valves? (If I read correctly). I was effectively wondering if there's any chance I could run without valve reliefs. Quite expensive getting hold of new pistons here in the UK so thought I'd ask whoever unlikely
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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How to check main thermostat // Where to buy an original Nissan Thermostat? 1 2 3 4 6
by jalexquijano- 2 followers
- 65 replies
- 10.6k views
I wanna open the thermostat housing on my 1972 240z so i can check if my thermostat is 160, 170 or 180° degrees? Should i just remove the bolts of the cap that covers the thermostat and avoid spilling any coolant? Whats the correct procedure to remove the verify and remove the thermostat as i want to be sure its a 160° thermostat and not 180°. I would like to purchase an original nissan OEM 160 or 170° thermostat but its getting complicated. WHere do i buy one?
Last reply by S30Driver, -
- 1 follower
- 25 replies
- 4.6k views
Does anyone know what I can buy as a replacement for this coil? I removed it from the power unit pcb. The schematic says it is 1.5 mh. I am not sure what the other markings mean.
Last reply by gotham22, -
- 32 replies
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So I have a early 71 240z that I bought not to long ago, and it runs but like crap. I have never been able to get it right. First I had an issue with the SUs and the choke being out of adjustment so I fixed that and started to tune the carbs and noticed a huge vacuum leak out of the air tube, one of the ports had a large hose hooked to it that was sucking in tons of air, so I plugged it. As soon as I plugged the port, the motor started running smoother but then started backfiring constantly out of the tail pipe and out of the carbs back and forth, puffs of fuel would come out of the carbs every so often. It was almost like the motor is choking and builds up pressure and …
Last reply by 5 Star Rising, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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My Z has been occasionally making a "popping" sound when accelerating, or going uphill. sometimes there are a few in rapid succession and sometimes its just one. This is not my video but this is the exact sound that I am hearing. I have all new injectors. I just want to know where to start before i start buying new parts hoping something will fix it. All the vacuum lines are good. I have been googling as much as I can to try to find a solution. Thank you for your time.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
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Hi everyone, I discovered this wire had melted. As you can see from the attached pictures it leads to the T shaped plug that goes into the alternator. I can splice in a new wire but I'm clueless why this happened. I also found this blown 10 amp fuse in the fuse block. (Ignore the tissue paper I was just using it as background for photo clarity). Howard 1974 260z
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 21 replies
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Hello all This past afternoon I found that the rear of my Z oddly smelled of raw fuel. While doing laundry at my brother's place I jacked the rear of the car up to find a nice line of fuel coming from the sending unit (the round thing on the right side of the tank right above the centerline). I'm assuming that the O-ring that sits inside has probably been nicely eaten by all the ethanol in the fuel, are these hard to replace? Do I have to drop the tank or can I finagle the thing out with the tank still in the car? Thanks Jan
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
- 2 followers
- 105 replies
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Hello, I have searched previous threads and am not coming up with an answer. I have no power at the signal wire from the voltage regulator to the altenator. I have replaced the altenator, then the battery, then I thought maybe I got a bad altenator and replaced it again after getting it bench tested, then the voltage regulator in that order. Any ideas?? Thank you in advance.
Last reply by FreshZ, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.4k views
New to site. Anyone know a competent Z mechanic in the central New Jersey, USA area?
Last reply by alsboes, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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Greetings, I'm not much of a mechanic. But I'm learning and enjoying myself. Anyway, I'm working on fixing up my 1973 240z. I want to change out this ratty braided hose in the picture. It goes from the engine block to the intake manifold right between the carbs. I cannot find this hose on any parts diagram. Can somebody send me a link to a supplier? Or at least tell me what it's called? This is driving me nuts... I'd like to replace this ratty old hose with a fancy stainless steel braided hose that looks awesome. Thanks in advance for the help.
Last reply by ahgreen, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 967 views
This just started happening out of nowhere a while back. I can feel the popping/vibration through the handle as it rolls up and down. It doesn't appear to be slipping on the little gears, but that what it sounds like. I've lubed the window tracks but it still pops like this. Any ideas?
Last reply by Mike, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
Anyone have a source for the OEM engine mounting bushings (11345-N3000) that are pressed into the rear manual transmission mount.
Last reply by Zed Head,
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