Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
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Hi everyone! Long time member here but really my first post! I am in the process of getting ready my old girl (1970 240z) for a longish rally and thought I should probably change the transmission oil.... Any ideas as to what this mystery piece of metal is that I found when draining my 5spd transmission?
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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This topic came up here about two months ago. In fact, I even commented at the time (without much optimism). However, now I have to deal with the reality of my own situation and I'm looking for 'been there / done that' tips from anyone who's managed to accomplish the task successfully without pulling the head and manifold. Issue: the rear-most manifold stud on my L24 engine has been snapped off (not by me!) flush with the face of the cylinder head. The exhaust manifold is still in place, and I'd prefer to leave it there if I can. That means drilling out the stud with a hand drill and working within the confines of the hole in the manifold flange (which is about 0…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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i'm not getting power to my defroster element at the hatch window, but i used to... pulled the 2 plugs at the hatch glass, test light does not light. the 20amp defroster fuse is good. when i turn the defroster switch on, the blue "defroster" indicator lights up the defroster relay makes no "click" when i turn the switch on/off. the defroster relay has a 4-pin plug: 2 pins have constant power (test light lights up between them) when the key is in acc mode, regardless of defroster switch position - i assume this is the power that is supposed to be sent to the defroster elements when the relay is activated by the defroster switch. the othe…
Last reply by rossiz, -
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Thanks Lon
Last reply by Marine240z, -
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I own a 1971 right hand drive fairlady 240z. I am wondering how sought after it is, may want to sell but am testing the waters. I have been researching it online and can not find the value for this specific car. Anyone know where I can get it's value or it appraised?
Last reply by Red7, -
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In the process of redoing brake lines at the wheels, and have never flared brake lines before. I am using polyarmor with the plastic coating, and it may be slightly too large for the 3/16" tool I am flaring with. Here is what I have done so far. I believe they look pretty good, but I am little worried this tool overtightens the second flaring operation and I don't want it to thin out the wall too much. FYI I applied some anti-seize to lubricate the operation, so some of the metal coloring you see on the inside is that. Even so, in the second image you can see a little bit of burring on the crushed over wall (despite my cleaning up all the edges at the start.) I …
Last reply by One Way, -
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Hi, I'm putting my 1976 280 back together after (shamefully) letting her sit for 5 years unpreped. It wasnt my intention to go for so long however, life got in the way as it sometimes does. I was wondering if anyone could please help me on the huge anxiety I am having on just getting my spark plugs. I have a turbo on the car plus she is stroked and has a bore of .90 over. I believe because of the turbo alone shouldn't it be 1° cooler? I don't know if the other mods would play in that as well. I think stock was like BP6ES? But I don't know if that would be safe to use. Any help I'd appreciate it.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I am getting my 70' 240Z ready for an inspection so I can get it on the road. There is some major corrosion/mechanical damage to the floor pans on both sides, so feeling that I wanted this done properly (I do own a Mig welder and have the tools to do it myself), I took it to a body shop in town. We havn't agreed ona price yet, but I'll be supplying the floor pans for the repairs. How many hours would it take for a professional bodyman to cut out the old floors and weld in the new ones and seat supports? I'm getting a vibe of 2000-3000 dollars so, 20-30 hours respectively, which seems like a lot. I think for about 10 hours I could do this myself, with no prior training. T…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hey mates This past Saturday I replaced my old and destroyed rear strut mounts on my 76' Z. While I was there I readjusted the rear drums as they seemed quite loose. Everything seemed fine until later this evening when I went for a cruise. At red lights it seemed that the brakes would stick - car wouldn't move back when the car sat on a slight angle. When I got home the driver's side brake was quite hot to the touch. I've been having issues with these brakes for months now and am really at my whits end. I've adjusted and readjusted these a few times now. I've replaced everything on these but the wheel cylinders and those aren't leaking. Could my master cylinder not be r…
Last reply by djwarner, -
Body panels 1 2
by marksexton- 3 followers
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My beloved 1971 240z was recently hit causing damage to the front of the car. I need to find a replacement hood , left front fender and doors. Anyone have any suggestions on where I might find these panels/parts. The car was in perfect condition and I want to get it back on the road.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Ok, so, I have an issue. It's been some time since I've posted here and I'm still working on a 1973 240z. Since my last post, which was in regards to replacing/repairing the fuel pump, I have replaced the pump, strainer, and the fuell line between pump and strainer. Now my issue is that, despite the new pump, the car will not start. My current assumption is either a clog in the metal fuel line from pump to carbs, a clog in the rubber fuel line that connect directly to the carbs, or an issue with the flow guide valve. These being my assumed issues I was wondering how I might go about checking these. Also to state, before someone suggests it, I was able to put a vacuum pu…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 2 followers
- 25 replies
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So, the wreckers in Alvarado Texas won't ship me the gas tank I need... Anyone know someone in Texas near Alvarado that could look at it and perhaps perform a little third party transaction? They say it's rusted inside, but as long as it is not damaged, and no holes, it could still be salvaged maybe... Thanks guys! ...or even better, does someone HAVE a 1976 gas tank they are not using that I could buy? Mine is pretty banged up.
Last reply by Patcon,
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