Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 23 replies
- 3.2k views
Spark plugs have 60 miles The #3 plug came out looking brand new. I've pretty much ruled out some culprits below: Ignition coil: Wouldn't effect only one cylinder 100% and other cylinders not at all. Distributor: All tune-up parts almost new. Distributor cap metal contacts show the same pasty white surface wear indicating it's operating correctly even for cylinder #3 i.e. they all look identical. Spark plug wires: Almost brand new NGK set. Tested resistance on #3 wire as 5,980 Ohms which should be fine especially for a wire 2+ft long. Spark plug: Looks like it never even fired...unless it's been firing in a cylinder with no-combustion (no fuel) in air only. The …
Last reply by Jennys280Z, -
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- 12 replies
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Hello datsun community, Long time lurker and first time poster. I recently purchased a 1977 280z and it has been sitting at home for a couple of months. When I tried to start the car, the engine sounded like it was trying to turn but not enough electricity was coming from the battery. I tested and the battery fail. Today, I bought a new battery and plugged everything back in. Immediately, one of the wires starts to glow red hot. Fire ensued. I quickly removed the battery and it seems like I made a mistake? I don't know where to start.. Can you guys give me a hint?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 8 replies
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Here is a picture of the alternator. It is a Duralast from Autozone for an 82 ZX. Here are the instructions that came with the MSA adapter plug. Here is a picture of the wire coming out of the alternator. Question #1- Step 8 on instructions says to connect the black wire to the case mount marked "e". I just don't want to assume anything here. Question #2- Connect white/red wire to post marked "b"... I think I got the socket thing figured out but... Question #3- What do I do with that yellow wire with the plug on the end of it?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 15 replies
- 6k views
I wanted to drain the coolant out of the engine and replace it with water + waterWetter, but when I looked for the drain petcock, it was missing. It has broken off. So I call the friendly local radiator shop, and he says a new radiator takes two days to install! I asked why you can't just replace the plug, and he says "maybe they can drill it out." Is there a good way to remove the broken part of the radiator drain petcock, and install a new one? I think the local AP has them (it has 10 x 1.25 threads.) I probably could just disconnect the lower hose, but I'd make a mess of the floor, probably, or can you inch it off and get a controlled leak? I don't think it's loosin…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I brought this on myself when I posted earlier today (in the EFI forum) that I just ordered a new brake booster and that it looked like an easy job. The booster actually arrived today AND it was an easy job - well almost an easy job. At step N of the N step process I got to the point where I re-attach the brake lines to the master cylinder (OK, step N-1 since step N is refill). I Thought I was home free but reattaching the brake lines is not happening. They came off easy (I changed the master cylinder a year ago and it was uneventful then) and the threads look good all around. The only difference is the new brake booster - it is slightly larger than the old one. …
Last reply by S30Driver, -
- 15 replies
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Forgive the photo, but on my way back to work from my lunch, I was horrified to see "smoke" coming from the engine as I was about to park. I was somewhat relieved to see that it was only steam from the hot fluid in the cold air. There's a small cut in the hose (not easy to see in the pic, but its there), just left of the dipstick that was the culprit. Could you guys confirm that this is standard heater hose, and of what size? If I'm lucky, the hose will have enough slack I can cut it shorter and reattach it for now, put some new coolant in and maybe have her running to get home tonight.
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 11 replies
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hey guys this is my first post on the website so forgive me if its not in a well mannered order, but i noticed a couple days ago that one of my fuel injectors was leaking so i ordered the parts and everything i need to replace it and im just curious as to how difficult of a job its gonna be. i have a stock L28 engine. thanks, robert
Last reply by sscanf, -
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Dear guys I am looking for a set of 280zx Turbo center caps that comes on the swastika wheels. if any of you has a set and want to sell it, or can guide on where to find it, please let me know. i have been looking everywhere but it seems like they are no longer exist. thank you
Last reply by monirjw, -
- 23 replies
- 6k views
Got an e-mail referencing an article in Machinist's Workshop magazine http://www.magazine-agent.com/machinists-workshop/magazine I tried to look it up, but the site wants to see my cookies and as you all know Her Majesty doesn't show her cookies to just anyone. Anyhow, we have had several discussions about removing rusted bolts and rusted hardware. I can't seem to find any appropriate thread to tack this on to. Here is supposedly what was said in the article: Machinist's Workshop Magazine recently tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts with significant results: They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 7 replies
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I found my first/only lead on a local windshield its in omaha and its in a 280z 2+2, I have a regular 260z two seat coupe. Are the windshields the same?
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 10 replies
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OK it is a toyota. The rear camber adjustments are eccentric's that go through the control arm bushings. These things are like the wonderful spindle pins in that two cylindrical surfaces corrode due to water. The difference is that the hollow eccentric tube fits in a slightly larger tube that is moulded to the bushing (see cut up lca end bushings and eccentric tube that I found on line). Any ideas on how to separate? I will build a puller and spray with penetrating oil but I am thinking that controlled heating then cooling of the eccentric may help break the bond between the surfaces?
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
- 39 replies
- 4k views
Okay, I just boughat my first Z earlier today. My father owned the same 79 280zx model back when I was a kid and Damn it was awesome. I want to rebuild what he had and restore this one to its full potential but I just can't catch a glimpse of that happening. I've been battling with it since I got it home (I drove it 40 some miles with no more than some minor bumping in the front left tin rod and high revs in neutral and between shifts). I go to inspect my prize and I see chaos. The tube behind the mass air flow module (or what I believe to be) had been wrapped several times with electrical tape. Turns out it had a massive tear. Then I got it going again to test the high r…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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