Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Any easy method of checking the fuel level in the float bowls of 3 screws round top SU CARBS? My car runs great at high speed but at idle it does not perform correctly.
Last reply by Randalla, -
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Today I found a set of SB needles on my work bench that I had forgotten I ordered. Now I am trying decide Why? Is anyone currently running these needles in their 240?
Last reply by Randalla, -
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Don't know if anyone else has mentioned this but the BringaTrailer auction website has on offer a pair of ZTherapy SUs. Look all shiny and new and come with the intake manifold. Be interested in seeing what they go for.
Last reply by texasz, -
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Hi all, I was wondering if many of us would share our weber jet sizes vs different setup L series 6's.. Just to help others tune their weber fed ZEDs. My 240z has the original block bored out to around 2.5l with a appox 280-288 degree cam or 74 degree depending on how you read them(tighe cams au-will edit with cam grind number later). No porting- valve grind - 6,3,2 extractors 2.5 inch system. Tripple webber 45's on lynx manifold running: 135 mains 155 air correction 32mm chokes f2 emm tubes 35 accerator pump jet f955 idle jets "sock filters" This setup gets me appox 21 MPG and revs out very hard above 3500rpm.. BUT is a bit coughy and sick up to 3000rpm whic…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Car was running when last parked 2 years ago. Emptied the old gas and put in new. I can get the car to start but it'll use up the fuel in the front float and then die. Rear float doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot and it seems as though I'm running on the front 3 cylinders only. I had 2 extra float tops sitting around so I adjusted them both as per the ztherapy video suggestion. Installed those and same thing. I've removed the fuel supply line to the front float and started the car. Fuel came out of the supply line so I know there is fuel going through the rail. Anyone have suggestions or thoughts on why the front float is not filling back up?
Last reply by Ptero, -
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I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's and they have the long and short arms in the float bowl lids. Long in front carb, short in rear. I intend to set the floats on my bench top by setting the lid with its float and gasket on top of a small clear drinking glass with a 23mm scribe mark at the correct spot. Can anyone tell me whether the distance between the inside of the float bowl lid and the top of the gas is 23mm for both the front and the rear carbs on a 1972, or is the front 23mm and the rear something less ? I'm looking for a definitive answer for myself and all my 72 brethren
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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1. (DCOE and SU) Oil or grease paper gaskets. They last longer, seal better, and do not stick or tear when separating during future maintenance. 2. (DCOE) If you have the optional cold weather starter circuit on your carbs, the plungers that seal the openings to the throat can corrode and/or seal poorly. The trick is to remove the plunger, apply some valve grinding compound to its sealing tip area then use long needle nose pliers to seat it in place and to rotate it to lap a perfect seal. Be sure to flush out the compound after this work.
Last reply by 240260280, -
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I'm trying to get my early-'71 all dialed in, and had noticed some running issues. It would sputter under load when I tried to move it while cold. It felt boggy when revving, and would backfire on the overrun. I drained and cleaned out the tank. The supply and return lines are clear. I pumped air through the supply, return, and fuel rail. I also used a vacuum pump to draw fuel through the supply line, and it seems to come readily. I bought a new fuel filter, and upon installing it, it filler up to about 4/5 of capacity, but the running issue remained. After re-checking the lines and adding a bit of timing adv. the car started running well, but the filter is now…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Have been lurking, but have a question now. for which my searches have been unsuccessful. I have been working on refurbishing my father's 1974.5 260z. He is sticking with the flat top carbs for now. Car had been running very rich, but we just removed carbs and reset float/fuel level, which was was too high. However, earlier on we had changed the idle mixture and idle speed screw settings to try to improve the idle. I thought I had seen recommendations on starting point and procedure for adjusting idle mixture without a CO meter, which we do not have. Cannot find that method now. Does anyone know the starting point and adjustment procedure for idle mixture screw and idle s…
Last reply by DWSchmidt, -
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Howdy! I have a 260z with 4screw SU's, im using a choke cable out of a 73" 240z and i find that the cable tends to bind, I really have to yank the crap outta the cable and it does not move much. I came across this video: and this guy has such a smooth movement of the choke! Is that because the choke is a different year? Has anyone replaced the choke with a non-oem replacement? I've not been able to find information about this. Regards,
Last reply by Persimmon240, -
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away from heat easy access to carb tops
Last reply by Jason240z, -
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I posted the other day about sputtering at high speeds (100mph) and received some great suggestions. Thanks There seems to be an issue I just discovered, bubbling in the fuel line, I guess it is air. I orginally thought this to be vapor lock as I am in AZ and it is very hot. However the other day I took the car out and it began running poorly in seconds, well before vapor lock should have occured. I have included a photo it seems there may be air in the line and it is causing bubbles and I guess that is causing an inconsistant fuel flow. I am guessing I have a hole in a line or some loose connection that is causing air to be sucked into the fuel lines. Has anyone had an …
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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