Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have a 1976 Dastun 260Z 2+2. It has the original 260Z flat top carbs ( Boat anchors)and N36 manifolds with four bolt carb holes. Recently while in Australia I picked up a set of carbs, aircleaner and manifold as well as an unused manifold that some Dude that reckoned the were off a 240z that he crashed 20 yrs earlier. The manifold is a webed design that look like they are off a crossflow head. They do not have space for exaust ports. The numbers on them are 41025 and the unused one is 41026.The SU looking carbs have 1G26 and Asian ISO stamped on them. Hopefully this will mean something to somebody. So what I want to no is which manifold number do I need to get hold of t…
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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Does anyone know where i can buy a set of Su carbs for my 72' 240Z, and about how much i should plan to spend?
Last reply by leadbelly, -
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i need help! i finally got my Z running with the dellortos, and she sounds cool!!!! however, one problem.... when i punch the gas, it bogs horribly bad and tries to stall. if i accelerate slowly, it works ok. both of these are under no load. under load, around 2500-3000 rpm's it just stops accelerating and looses all power. if i put in the clutch and pump the gas, eventually she catches and then takes off like no tomorrow! i believe the emulsion tubes are too lean for the application. does anyone know where to buy them or does anyone have some they'd be willing to sell??? i tried CB Performance in california. ordered tubes and filters. today, i just get filters a…
Last reply by Bruce Woolmore, -
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In the '72 I am tearing apart, it has normal looking Hitachi round-tops on it. Under the seat, I found an old For Sale sign listing everything on the car including "Two-barrel Jensen Carbs." Can someone explain this--or was the guy just stoned? steve77
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
I'm currently running triple webers, but at my altitude(6500 feet) they apparently(advice from a well respected z race mechanic) are doomed to always have a severe stumble at low rpm rapid accelleration unless I put a higher performance cam in to increase air flowing past jets. The jetting I have is supposedly ideal for this altitude, and the car does idle really well and performs exceptionaly well above 2500-3000 rpm.. Anyway, I have the flat top carbs(I know the bad reputation, but some people have had good luck with dumping the smog stuff) and manifold for the car and was wondering: to make them run decently, do I just seal off all smog orifices to the carb and manif…
Last reply by tanny, -
Hi guys Was up a mountain yesterday when my engine decided to cough and splutter and generally just not run well at less than about 2500rpm.. I pulled over immediately to have a listen but after about 4 seconds of idling at around 500 (usually around 700) it conked out. Fiddled around for a while, but my bonnet cable broke again that same morning so it was a bit useless! Anyway, tow truck came along and got me back home for 60 bucks AUD (not bad I thought) and he also helped me get my bonnet open (gave it a good yank and pressed down on the bonnet at the same time). The car was just in the shop last week (got it back Friday) getting $500 worth of stuff fixed up. I think t…
Last reply by Alfadog, -
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ive been reading thru some threads and people keep bringing up putting tranny oil in the carbs, ive been needing to put new oil in my su's and i have alot of extra redline tranny fluid, so can i use this or what?
Last reply by MikeW, -
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I just drove my car home from the paint shop with it's nice new red paint job. It has been a long wait seeing it is a hobby car and left it in a freinds shop in which it sat for about 6 months before it was finally finished. The engine bay got vey dusty including my ramflow filters on the SU's. The drive home was slow, had to keep the revs up so it would'nt stall. Very rough idle, sounded like only 1 carb was working. At the moment I'm in the process of putting all the new door seals and retrimmed int back into the car and will see to the carbies next. Before i start cleaning up around those carbies any tips to offer. Could dust have got through the spongy filter n into …
Last reply by toecutter, -
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i recently bought a reman. alternator for my 1973 240z, and the posts on the alternator are different than the old one that i returned to the store. i have the yellow wire with the red stripe that hooks to it and i have two black wires that also hook to it. my problem is that if i hook those 3 wires to the alt. , the battery gets hot. this new alt. has only 1 post where as the old one had 2 posts. so i would like to know how i am going to hook these wires up. the black wires could be ground wires for ?, but i have no idea.- HELP
Last reply by nahurry, -
Hey Guys, I'm in the process of swapping blocks (N42>F54). I currently have 71 round tops, N42 head,6-1 exhaust 2 1/2 pipes with a flowmaster, and a K&N filter. I am planning to upgrade to EI and use an MSD coil. My question is about the needles in the carbs. As far as I know they are stock. I've heard that I need to change the needles with the larger engine. Should I order the "Gross Jets" from Motorsports? Or is there another option?
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hello fellow Zers, My front carb throttle shaft seems to be hanging up. I've disassembled and cleaned all the pivot points but the problem is still there. What kind of grease do you use? I've used a lithium based grease. Is there a way to lube throttle shafts without complete disassembly? These are on my 72 with round top su's. I've checked for vacuum leaks using Berrymans carb cleaner and none were detected. The throtlle shaft is snug with little or no play in them. If i blip the throttle in goes to normal idle speed, from around 1200 rpm. I know its the front because I can push down where the spring goes and it moves down. I tried swapping springs nothing. Any ideas?…
Last reply by beandip, -
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Please Advise The other day I was just drving along in my 1972 240Z, and I the car started loosing power and eventually died. I towed the car home and changed the fuel filter and adjusted the idle. Took the car back out. Ran good for awhile ....then started loosing power and eventually died. The car started right back up and idleed strong in park, however, when put in drive it died. Any suggestions.
Last reply by beandip,
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