Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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The triple install will be soon. I haven't decided whether to use a cable or the linkage components.I am a bit hesitant to use the cable due to stretch over time but I am not positive on what length of linkage I need and are any modifications needed to the factory swivel point? Any suggestions would be appreciated along with HD pictures if you would. These are 47mm OER's and I plan to install them next summer after the plumbing and hardware are secured. Thanx for any asistance.
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here goes. I've looked at several 240z's locally that were '73 models, produced in late 72 and 73, and every single one of them has had what appears to me to be round top carbs. I've read online that 73 was the model year that the carbs went to the horrible flat tops, but since all of the ones I've seen haven't had them, its hard to believe that all the previous owners swapped them out for their round counterparts. So, is it possible that these 73's came with the round tops either stock or as a dealer option, or were they all aftermarket mods?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Just installed a coolant reservoir tank to my champion 3 row radiator. It´s working better now. Anyway, the car is still presenting some sluggish acceleration after getting stuck on a 5 to 10 mins short traffic. Can someone explain to me why if i pull out all the NGK BP6ES spark plugs and brush the carbón off, the car accelerates fine? I have both of my carbs set to 3 turns clockwise. If i lower it more, i start loosing power at 1st gear.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I've installed the K&N electric pump from MSA with my ZTherapy refurbed Hitachi SU's. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a09/11-3078 The MSA write-up for this pump says "no regulator required". The car runs fine without a regulator and I see no signs of the carbs dumping fuel. I've also heard that the stock mechanical pump on a 240Z puts out 5 - 6 PSI which is pretty much in range with the K&N pump. Any thoughts on whether I should throw money at a regulator and why? If I'm convinced I need a regulator I'm guessing this regulator / gauge combo would work okay? http://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-Low-Pressure-Carb-Only…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hi: I'm reading the carb tuning how-to's on this site and I realize I may be turning the wrong screws and going around in circles. My setup does not have any emissions from (#1 to #6 and #13) in the diagram, so I have four screws I may adjust #8, two #10's and #14 (excluding the mixture nuts but I understand how they work). Adjust idle fuel and balance: I don't know what the screw at #8 is called but I'm supposed to disconnect the ball and socket there or back off the screw? Then I use the individual screws at #10 to balance air flow and by disabling front/rear. Should #14 be backed off the tab? Off-Idle Fuel and Balance: Turn the fast idle screw to 3,000 r…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Pulled the carbs off of my 240Z today to have them reworked. There is no gasket between the spacer on the intake manifold and the intake manifold, is one supposed to be there? More directly can the lack of a gasket there cause an air leak? My car seems to have variable mixture making me think there is an air leak somewhere though I never tried the carburetor spray test.
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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My actual airtex 8012s electric fuel pump is barely 3 psi at the carbs. I found a stock spare one on my garage and would like to swap as i believe the metal filter could be clogged inside. During the process i would also like to replace the fuel lines that go in and out of the pump with new rubber hoses. I believe these lines are 5/16". Am i correct?
Last reply by JSM, -
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Yesterday i cranked my 240z and drove with the choke pulled for 5 minutes until i reached to normal temperature as otherwise the car misfires and stumbles. Once on the speedway i pushed the choke lever off and when accelerating the car started to pop or backfire at the intake. In order to avoid this i had to add some choke so i could reach back home. Is this a symptom proving that the Airtex 8012s electric fuel pump is failing? I had this problem 2 years ago, replaced the pump and never had this again. What is the mínimum PSI that i need in order to avoid this problem? Both of my carbs are set to 2.65 turns clockwise and have been balanced. https://www.amazon.com/Ai…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have a 260z that has undergone may upgrades, downgrades and lateral grades. The carbs right now are 4-bolt round tops. Somewhere along the modifications, the return flow fuel line was disconnected and plugged. I'm getting vapor lock issues on hot days when I'm driving hard so I'd like to reconnect this line but I'm not sure where it goes. It is likely in Section EF (Fuel System) of the FSM; however, the only copy on line is a bit too fuzzy to read or to follow the diagrams. Could someone please pm me a copy of this section in a better resolution? Thanks Jeff
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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i have watched the ztherapy´s how to tune su carburetor video several time plus Dylan´s 544 setting SU CARBS Anyway, even though i could adjutst the idle speed and balance between both of the 3 screws roundtop carbs i can´t still understand clearly how to get a precise air / fuel mixture dialing the jet adjustment nuts. I started at 2.5 turns clockwise and have raised them both to 3.5 turns clockwise. I am even using the GUNSON Colortune but it doesnt seem to give me a precise Reading. Should i just trust on the color of plugs number 2 and 5 to verify i have the correct mixture?? How do you determine the correct color of the plugs? Do you race the c…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I have come into possession of a Nissan publication entitled Modification Plus which is a Nissan manual for fuel system modifications from the factory relating to the 73/74 240-260 fuel systems focusing on the flat top carbs. It has a bunch of modification, recall information and troubleshooting info. I have not seen this document available elsewhere. I am prepared to scan it into a pdf and post it for general availablitiy. If I am simply missing it, then I will not bother with scanning it. It is dated August 1975. Is this document already out there?
Last reply by ztripper, -
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Hi everyone, I got the exhaust finally installed and started the car up for the first time in a year. I removed the air filter so it was easier to work and I noticed that both air intakes were dripping gasoline. Upon closer inspection the backside of the orange air filter housing also had gasoline being deposited on it. Where you see my finger touching is the location the gasoline was dripping down on both from both carbs. I’m guessing the gasoline could be penetrating the gasket on the intake to the orange housing? I checked all the connections and rubber hoses and there were no leaks, however when I wiggled the float bowls they had some movement (I do…
Last reply by esmit208,
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Wilbur
