Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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carb oil leak 1 2
by kully 560- 3 followers
- 18 replies
- 1.2k views
I need a little help from the forum again, I have 1971 4 bolt su carbs that seems to have a small oil leakage from the mixture nut. not bad but when I adjust the mixture my fingers get wet with oil. is there a o-ring in there I can change? also can it be done with the carbs still in the manifold buy removing the assembly from the bottom of the carbs? thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
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Ever since I bought these new webers nothing has worked quite right. I am starting from scratch. Again. want to get my float squared away before I touch another dang think. Where are my Weber heads.
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1k views
This is a first. I've probably rebuilt 60-80 Z SU carbs over the years, but have never seen this modification. These pistons were in a set of early, 4 screw carbs from a customer's 1970 240Z. As you can see in the pictures it appears someone drilled and inserted a short piece of steel rod into the bottom of each piston. The end protrudes below the bottom of the piston raising the piston perhaps 1/32" off the bridge. The net effect would richen the mixture significantly, similar to dropping the needle from the piston. The piece is small enough that I wouldn't think the extra weight would impact throttle tip in but I can't be sure. Anybody else seen this modification before…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 3 followers
- 21 replies
- 1.3k views
I'm working through some stalling issues on my 71'. The fuel level in my fuel filter varies from about the halfway level in the filter to about 1/2" from the bottom. Does anyone know if the varying fuel levels in the filter are typical for this car? I'm running an original mechanical pump and it's pumping out the fuel just fine. Just going through the process of elimination and this seemed kind of strange. Thanks!
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 5 followers
- 191 replies
- 64.3k views
Installed my 40 DCOE webers on the L24: Engine specifications 2.4 liters original motor/head/cam. Pertronix ignition Pertronix 1.5 Ohm coil MSA 6-2-1 headers adjusted idle mixture screws 1/2 turn out Adjusted all idle speed screws (without actuator rods hooked up) until they were about to uncover the first progression hole I had at my disposal, an wideband O2 gage installed into my header (innovative LM1) and a Air Sychronizer tool with weber air horn adapter (note, air horn adapter not shown) My factory out of the box settings for my 40 DCOE 151's were: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.5k views
I have a question about intake manifolds, I was just thinking for a winter project. I have a stock 280zx motor with a header and 4 bolt su carbs. so right now, I have the e46 intake manifold on the motor and the car runs great. but I heard some place years ago that the n36 has better flow. has anybody made the swap, is it worth the hassle. and if so, do I use the 71 carb thick insulator or the 260z thin insulator from the n36 intake. thanks again kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.3k views
Ok, I have had this car for years, but ran across a new issue. I am pretty good at getting this car tuned, I have had it since 1979....... Took it to the post office the other day and it ran bad, with backfire and hesitation. Seemed a bit better when I pulled the choke slightly, so I went back to the drawing board. Checked timing, all good, electronic ignition fires all plugs. When I pulled the plugs, the first three cylinder plugs had white on them, so I am thinking those are lean! Ok, go to check that carb, and it seems fine. The adjustment screw is 1.5 turns out, the float chamber is full of gas, and I check to make sure the float level adjustment is correct.…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 followers
- 13 replies
- 1.3k views
Looking for a throttle/accelerator bell crank for a 1970 240Z. Will be refurbished so doesn't have to be perfect. Roo
Last reply by SpeedRoo, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 805 views
Hi folks-so to give some background, I've read up and watched videos of people tuning 2x SU carbs on a 240z, and had my first attempt at it today. Have a bit of confusion, and would love some tips. Background: -'72 240z, stock SU carbs(to my knowledge?). Were rebuilt about 2-3 years ago and balanced at the time. Fuel pressure regulator in line pre-carbs. Cannot verify actual PSI, have not tested with gauge yet. -Over the last two years, the car has run progressively worse. Last summer a changed out the spark plugs, and it temporarily helped. Recently I pulled all the plugs, and 1-3 looked clean, but 4-6 all were black at the tips. I am assuming the "bumpe…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 351 views
Been searching the forum for ideas on my current problem. Final stages of complete restorations of my 73 Z. My latest issue is it running rich. I have replaced the 73 carbs with 72 round tops that I completely rebuilt. The car runs fines at all rpms and speeds (actual driving it). It smells rich and does some popping thru the exhaust. I should also mention I have headers on the car. The carbs have new .100 nozzles from z therapy and N54 needles. In an attempt to lean it out I've tried incrementally adjusting the Idle nuts 1/2 turn clockwise (did it 2 times 1/4 turn at a time). According to the 72 FSM says turning the idle adjustment nut clockwise reduces fuel and …
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 6 followers
- 29 replies
- 3k views
I have a 1972 240z with SU carbs. My front carb has no vacuum being pulled through it. Not sure why. The front 3 cylinders are firing (based on new plugs being carboned about as much as the rear 3) and it runs and drives decent (struggles a little to rev past 4k). I went to try balance the carbs and put an airflow meter on the front and it didn't read crap. I can block the throat of the carb with my hand and idle isn't affected. I also don't feel any vacuum being pulled through the vacuum advance (which is hooked to the front carb). If I block the rear carb it kills the engine. I checked valve clearances and all are good. I'm a bit lost to be honest. The slide on the fron…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 5 followers
- 319 replies
- 47k views
The eastern seaboard is getting roasted lately, yesterday we hit 103 and I had parked the car in the sun after a spirited highway run. Like 15 min. later I got in started fine and off I went, I didn't make it a half a block when she started to go heavy lean so I ducked into a parking lot where it sputtered and died and I drifted into a shady spot and popped the hood. I got a gallon of water and cooled the carbs (twin su r/t's) fuel pump and hard lines. After a little coaxing I got her to start again and got myself to an air conditioned bar. Today its over 100 again, I did a short run to the gas station and the hardware store and back home. I parked in the sun for only 4 o…
Last reply by Tirnipgreen,
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