Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I am getting fuel percolation at both carbs due to the amount of heat radiated by the manifold. I even replaced the fuel rail with rubber hoses this weekend and was still getting rough idle under a heavy traffic at 11:00 a.m. bumper to bumper. Car started to hesitate and stalled a couple of times. However i did found this company called THERMO-TEC which provides solutions to wrap the fuel lines and wrap the heat shield extensions: http://thermotec.shptron.com/c/heat-protection?pp=8&pg=2 Which of all the products they sell can work to wrap the fuel rail and cover the heat shield extensions?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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The steel fuel line that comes from the gas tank accepts 5/16 fuel hose but the entry and exit of glass fuel filter i have is 9/16". I did noticed that even with the clamp fully tight it leaks a little bit. Should i consider getting a Dorman glass filter 5/16 in and out or will the Fram G3 whic is 3/8 may work? I really dont like to smell or sense any fuel leak.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Can anyone tell me when if they are running the clear filter like the dorman, when the car is running is it completely full, 1/4, 1/2? I know I have some junk in my tank but when the car is running mine is only 1/4, to 1/2 full. I know I've thought I've seen it completely full before but recently I've been having issues. Possibly my mechanical fuel pump is failing. I was going to switch to low pressure pump by the tank soon, but just wondering.
Last reply by JSM, -
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I drove my Z for a year with it running low fuel chambers. Ran good at low RPM but wouldn't climb the tach gauge, or a steep mountain. Finally did them the sure fire way by sitting the lids on a small glass jar very similar to the the float bowls. Dried beef jar marked to 23mm. Now I have a full fuel filter on the engine bay as well as the clear filter going into the OE filter. Car runs better than ever and keeps those filters FULL where they used to trickle and were half full. My car, I know others are different.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float settings: Idle ~6-750RPM @ 20mmhg on the flowmeter apparently for this car…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hey folks, So I've just had a fresh rebuilt motor (L28) and and did a carb rebuild with a friend. I did the sequence of breaking in the motor and have done a couple oil changes after the initial break in and driving 20kms or so. When him and I were putting the carbs back together before starting the engine for the first time (DHLA 40's) he forgot to put the emulsion tube in the 3rd carb as I had 2 other spares I wasn't watching at this point. I had done a total of 40 miles of stop and go driving thus far without the e-tube. I just put the emulsion tube back in and did an oil change after thoroughly letting the oil drain from the car. When driving the car hesitated th…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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My engine has been modified to 2.6L with oversized pistons and Schneider 274F. I guess i forgot to tell Bruce Palmer of Ztherapy this fact and at the moment of refurbishing the 3 screws roundtop su carbs he placed a pair of SM needles. Isnt it better to use another type of needle when having a modified and engine and a non stock camshaft? If so, which model?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Hi all, I have a '74 260z with a 280 engine/5-sp manual that I purchased a few months ago. In the early 80's, a triple carb system was installed in it. Then around 2010, it was changed back to a dual SU carb system. I was trying to adjust the carburetors and could not locate the fast idle screw. After some digging on the internet, I think it's missing (see second picture), maybe during the switch back to dual carbs and the addition of the nifty bolt as a vacuum plug. Is this something I can easily fabricate out of a triangle of thick sheet metal with three holes, a screw for adjusting and maybe a spring around the screw? If not, anyone can suggest a source for this …
Last reply by Fred Sigarto, -
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Looking for some thoughts/opinions on the setup of my DCOE 45's. I purchased my 240z and it came with 45's on it, which I've concluded are too big for my application, but will deal with it for the time being. For the time that I've owned the car, getting it started was always a hassle and there was a lot of stumbling/hesitation at the bottom end/slow speeds. The engine didn't really come alive until 5-6k RPM through 3rd and 4th gear, basically all top end and it ripped hard on the highway. A few weeks back I decided to have the carbs gone through and retuned by a local weber specialist. Now that I have the car back, yes starting is easier and bottom end hesitation ha…
Last reply by JeffB240z, -
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After running too rich for months put new points and swapped the SM's for modded N-27's. I balanced the mix and set it lean, then set it 1/16 of a turn richer every few days. Now it goes lean when first leaving a stop sign, burbling a little except on very hot days, but runs well otherwise. I could easily richen it up but I love the gas mileage around town. I can drive for an hour and the gauge doesn't move. I've read that these engines like a rich mix but I seem to have more power when it's a little lean, especially on hot days. The N-27's are polished down at the mid-range, cruising, and top end stations so there's no lean miss or burbling when I get on it. No overheati…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Hello all. So I made the decision to ditch my ever failing fuel injection system in my 75 280 and do the four barrel carb conversion. (I have the Arizona Z car intake and holley 390 cfm.) Everything is hooked up and ready to go with the low psi fuel pump (I didn't forget to switch it), and there is no power going to my fuel pump now.. When I took all the fuel injection stuff out I removed the fuel injection wiring, computer, etc.. from the driver side so I don't know if that is what's causing my fuel pump to not have power or not? If anyone knows of a way to fix this I'd greatly appreciate it.
Last reply by just1n962, -
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Saw this and thought it might work for dual SUs, what do you guys think?
Last reply by kayinsunz,
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