Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I am restoring a '71 Series 2. I have three sets of the dual fuel rails above the manifold. All three are grimy and rusty. Once they're cleaned up, what is the correct finish; plating, paint, or bare metal? Thanks
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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Just got my 240z in the garage and started diagnosing the reason it won't start. Took the air cleaner off and the rear carb sprays fuel out but the front seems dry After removing the front and pulling it apart I see that the float is cracked. I see how every one dogs these carbs (for good reason ) but I'm stuck with them at least for now. I have found plenty of rebuild kits with the gaskets and etc.... floats are a challenge. Does anyone know where I can find one? First time posting on here so please let me know if I'm in the right place. Thanks in advance for any insight! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by BJammin240, -
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These came with the first 240 I bought and resold. I'll never install them because I need to keep my driver's license and stay out of jail. They are the older ones and supposedly pulled off a wrecked 240 years ago. They have been dry of fuel for at least 5 years and would most likely need rebuilding. Weber Bologna, made in Italy. 40 DCOE 18. CANNON intake. Any help with their value would be appreciated. Thanks, Cliff.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have set the timing on my distributor which has a petronix ignitor device and flamethrower coil to 12 btdc at idle. I would still like a faster response when revving from stops at 1st gear. Both carbs have been set to 2.65 turns clockwise. 2 days ago i raced the car 20 mins and came back to the garage, open the Hood and took both spark plugs 3 and 4 out. they look like brownish to black as per the picture. I have also noticed that when the car is cold, i need to drive it with the choke on for 5 to 7 mins. Is this normal?? I have removed that inline heat control manifold thermostat and have only a 160F (71C) thermostat installed, nothing else. The coolant line that g…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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OK This is the definitive SU float level tool: $70 on ebay now.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Lots of SU round top parts from 3 screw and 4 screw hitatchi used on the 240z. $125 shipped anywhere in the USA. Everything has been degreased. Includes 2 bodies, 1 dome, 1 piston, 1 float bowl/cover, 2 nozzles, 2 butterflies, 2 throttle shafts, and everything else pictured. All are in used condition sold as pictured. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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Alright I just bought some 1971 240z su carbs and installed them on my 1978 280z. I bought them from Holiday Florida (18') and are now on my car in Washington Utah (2792'). I have tried to tune them but I can't get past a lean mixture. I know this because when I lift the piston the engine rpms always go down instead of either soaring up or blipping up for just a moment and coming to a steady idle. I have tried driving it around how it is and it runs smooth up through 2nd gear but when I get to about mid 3rd it bogs and the car will no longer accelerate. (note this is when the car is flood) If I drive with a smooth foot I can get the car up past speeds of 100mph. I have t…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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My su carbs are 3 screw type and were remanufactured by Z Therapy in 2015. I have never opened the float valve chamber to check if the float level is the correct one as they were inspected by Ztherapy! Do you think that even though it was done by ztherapy i should also verify this?? They were shipped by plane to Panama and some people in the other fórums state that it could have shifted abroad. Do you concur? This is very delicate and i dont want to open them and damage something inside.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I have a 1978 280z that I am switching to early SU carbs (and for you FI guys there is no changing my mind, I already bought them) I am putting the carbs on the stock L28 and while shopping for the manifold gasket I found that the 240-260 has a specific gasket and the 280 has it's own gasket. I would assume that I need to buy the 240 gasket when doing this swap correct? I also have a question about how to run the choke cable through the car, what is the best way to do it, and can anyone with experience with this tell me how they did it?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I have set the timing on my car to 13 BTDC taking in consideration my engine had a Schneider 274F camshaft and not the original camshaft. Am i too advanced? I want a fast response when i shift to 1st. If i lower to 10BTDC it turns to be slow response!
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I am exploring Weber carbs and decided to try to simplify and present their functioning so that others can quickly grasp the basic concepts. To do this, I decided to make a fictional path of design that Mr.Weber, may or may not have traveled. I will provide further details for operation and maintenance in future posts, however this first post is a very simplified introduction. Blue The Ideal The simplest carburetor design that comes to mind would be a tube to flow air with a source of gasoline spraying in the middle of the tube. This would provide even distribution and symmetrical mixing at the highest velocity point of the tube. Approaching the Ideal: The M…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Okay, I have searched a ton of places and can't find the answer to this nor a diagram to help me from the FSM, Chilton, or Haynes manuals: 1. If I want to go with a euro balance tube on my SU setup, which rails can I make work? 2. What is the third tube for on the 73 and 74 fuel rails / pipes? Where does it go? I had assumed I would need a 70-72 fuel rail / pipe to work on the euro balance tube, but I'm not certain. I have a three tube one that is either from a 73 or a 74 (not sure) and had assumed that third tube was part of the emissions system. I've seen people talk about cutting it off, but nothing clearing up what it is for. I'd love some help (and directions to some…
Last reply by munters,
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