Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Just got them back a few minutes ago, good work boys.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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My 72 has not stayed in tune since the day I got it back from restoration. The carbs were professionally rebuilt by Z Therapy. Finally the front three cylinders totally died. I just got back from looking at it and found that the hose from the bottom of the float bowl to the jet is thin and collapsing. It is not allowing a consistent fuel flow or no fuel flow. Does anyone have a source for the proper hose? Or other suggestions. Thanks jlp
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
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Hi, Just thought I'd share what I've assembled for a simple heat shield. In this case it's being used on an L24 with triple Weber DCOE 40's. However, it should work for other carb brands as well. For those interested in its construction the metal shield was sourced from Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: and the insulation from Your Racing Safety Company Cheers, George
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I left my car at idle for 30 minutes the other day while testing the horn button, got the plugs fouled and car tended to stall. Pulled out all plugs and found all the spark plugs were carbón fouled and closed at less than .020. Replace all plugs with Brand new NGK BP6ES gapped at .031, took the car for a ride but noticed some hesitation again at low rpms. Could the carburetors pistons be dirty due to the long idling and hence i will need to open them and clean the domes with Carb Cleaner? I am using ATM red fluid as damper oil! I also found out the timing is at 19 BTDC!
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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After a couple hours on google search, I'm guessing there's no such thing as official measurements for the stations on the stock needles (N-27's, etc.). British SU's sure, but not Hitachi's. Maybe it's a secret. The same question was asked here in 2008 and no good answer. So has anyone (with a good eye, steady hand, and a good micrometer) measured and charted the stock needles? I've got some stock N-27's, modded N-27's, and some well-worn N-58's (I think), and well as the current SM's (data on those since they're British) and need to do some more polishing, but as I'm a novice at this, I would like to know where they started at, in case I want to buy or make some differ…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Did the white paper towel test at the tailpipe, when first starting the car for the day. It immediately got the black spatters that show overly rich mix. Took a short drive to the grocery store, about 4 blocks away. When I got back, I did the paper test again at idle, it was perfectly clean, not a single spatter. Normal, or something that needs to be tuned out ? I don't use the choke when starting. Using SM needles; had to set the mix fairly rich to get it to run at low RPM's. Guess that's because the SM's (like other British needles) are .099 at station 1 whereas N-27's etc. are .095. That makes them lean at idle (stations 1 & 2 according to SU publications). So …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Well not sure of the actual name, but here is what I am talking about? I would be eternally grateful if anybody has a spare or two.
Last reply by zKars, -
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Looking in Nissan E-Fast catalog, I can see that the Air Pump can be taken apart, much like a power steering pump can be. But how much of it is available for refurbishing? As far as restoring the look of this item, There are about 3 or 4 pieces on the unit that are cast into the housings that are supposed to be plated. If I were to plate the pieces that these small items are attached to, and then spray them with "cast iron" look spray or even blast the plating off the areas that are to be raw metal, would that cause any issue for the operation of said unit? Or does anyone offer NOS or refurbed units with this already done? I can only find a refurbed one right now, but…
Last reply by Careless, -
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Finally managed to adjust my twin Hitachi HJG 46W. I did the balance with the unisys synchronizer and the ball was in the bottom level in both carbs. If you accelerate the ball rises. So its fine. However after setting the idle speed to 1,000 RPM and driving the car a couple of blocks i noticed that the car mantained the RPM between 1,500 to 2,000 and did not lower to 1,000 on traffic lights or stops. The mechanic says that the problem is the carburetor springs and says i need to cut them. I dont share his opinión. THere must be something wrong in the tune up. Any advice?
Last reply by GregorydiT, -
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After cleaning the domes a few months ago, while setting the carbs, before starting the engine, I noticed the pistons could be raised with very little finger pressure, and realized I hadn't put any oil in the dampers. Put what I thought was the right amount in each (kind of hard to see the level) but one went up easier. I put some more oil in that one, and it was harder to lift. A few drops more and it seemed to take the same pressure to lift as the other carb. So I got the idea that oil level, as well as viscosity, affects how the pistons rise in response to vacuum (in front of the throttle plates) So, is that correct, or am I missing something ? Also, is matching …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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It's the flapper for the inside of the carb. What's the real name for it ? I need to find one for my SU carb rebuild because this one is no good. Thx !
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Hi all, its been a while since I've been on. The 240 is getting welded up, and so I've put stuff on the back burner for a while, but it will be back soon, so I am working on getting the engine ready to install. I've bought the "big" SU from a XKE I think. They bolt right up, but I dont know how I'll build a linkage that will open both carbs at the same time. Has anyone done this swap, and if so, how did you attack the issue? Many thanks! Curtis
Last reply by SteveJ,
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