Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Just filled both of my Hitachi refurbished 3 screw SU Carbs with 3 in one motor oil (Blue and White label). The Temperature here in Panama is 33 degrees Celsius, very hot indeed! The car is running okay, but at first gear sometimes hesitates back and forth. The idle was set to 1000 but does not keep the rpm steady. It lowers to 900 or rises to 1,100 RPM. Sometimes if stuck in traffic it can lower to 500 and could stall. Is this caused by the kind of damper oil? the timing was adjusted to 10 degrees Celsius and the Camshaft is a Schneider 274F (1800 to 6000 RPM) Any recommendations? Both carbs are fully adjusted and fine tuned.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I was stimulated to investigate my Carbs when I continued to accumulate soot around the exhaust after my engine overhaul while the plugs showed the classic tan. I was also not particularly happy with 0-60 times of my 186K mile AT car. Even after a fresh overhaul, I was able to post a 10.9 second 0-60 without over-revving the engine prior to launch. An August 1971 Road & Track review of an AT 240Z said the best 0-60 time they could achieve was 10.4 seconds. This serves as my benchmark. My engine is otherwise completely stock and wouldn't benefit from going to triple DCOEs. Researching Webers, in Pat Braden's HP Book on WEBER CARBURETORS, the author states…
Last reply by djwarner, -
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Hi everyone. I was wondering if the following are still available anywhere: Air Cleaner rubber stripping and carb-mouth mounting gaskets. These are 4 bolt ones for the 1970 i'm restoring, and I can't seem to find the rubber pieces that go inside the air cleaner either. Fuel Pump internal valve gaskets. They OE ones seem to be paper of some sort, but they are NLA. Is it ok to replace with a square-style rubber o-ring of sorts? or is there a preferred method aside from that? Also, can the pin that holds the arm in the fuel pump be pressed out and pressed back in? I need to clean this one up, but I don't want any gunk going into the back of the fuel pump. …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Ok guys still new here as you guys probably seen just got my 73 240z running but when i give it gas to fast it wants to choke out and almost die and back fires out of the front carburetor. Carburetor were just fully built. Since the frist start i let it run for 15min in idle then reved the motor up and did fine so i took it for a drive and it was hard to get power unless i slowly give it gas then its good after and when i turn the car off the motor shakes hard feels like it wonts to stay on still
Last reply by Alan2fast, -
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Bought this 73 240z year ago that had a 350 swap attempt. Also came with original motor and trans took it apart and cleaned it up and replaced ever thon with new parts new electric fuel pump new mechanical fuel pump new spark plugs and wires all new filters complete carburetor rebuild by pal tech but the car won't start there is fuel to the carburetors there's spark to the plugs I just don't know what to do anymore any help is appreciated?
Last reply by Alan2fast, -
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I bought these SU carbs used and have not run them yet. The visual inspection looks fine and I had Rebello do the big bore conversion and give them a good once over. The motor has never run so a backfire is to be expected while i get things sorted out. What concerns me is that on backfire fuel is shooting out of the banjo fittings on the sides of the carbs when the car backfires. My first thought was to replace the banjo crush washers, but if i seal those up tighter where is that pressure going to go? There aren't any leaks with the regular fuel pressure using an electric pump.
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
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I've had a continuing problem with the idle speed or mixture screws changing position over time despite the spring tension to hold them. Thinking back to the days when all cars had carbs, this was a common cause of deteriorating idle between tune ups. As polution controls became common, the idle mixture screw was set at the factory and locked in place with a non-removable cap. But these are impossible to find today. I envisioned making my own caps out of plastic when it occurred to me that a similar piece already exists in the form of electrical wire nuts with shrouds. I purchased some at Home Depot - 2 to 5 # 14 wire size. I punched out the spring locks from the …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I've been trying to remove the coolant line between the intake manifolds with no success. There are nuts on both sides but they won't loosen. I've used PBblaster many times and have used heat several times. Anybody managed to get these apart? Any chance they are reverse threaded? I'm also having trouble with the hose fitting that lines up with the coolant tube but is on the "outside" of the manifold. Thanks for any help.
Last reply by bacarl, -
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What kind of glue should i use to paste the SU Carbs to air cleaner gaskets? Crazy glue? or RTV black silicone? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1970-72-SU-Carb-to-Breather-Gasket-Air-Cleaner-Carburetor-Nissan-/291428319728?hash=item43da7b41f0&vxp=mtr
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I'm starting this thread to keep track of my findings, but please chime in if you have any thoughts, suggestions or critisisms on the matter. The engine is a fresh 3.0L Rebello "Full-on" package, which have my zTherapy 4 screw round tops bolted to it, on a smoothed balance tube, and a 6-2-1 header. Compression is said to be 10.1:1, I noticed the head is slightly ported, and the valvetrain noise is overly aggressive even with a fresh lash adjustment. Cam is a '99DI', IIRC, which Dave himself said runs very loud. Rebello Racing bored these to 48 mm, and as it appears did some crazy grinds on the needles to put down 282 HP on my dyno sheet. That said, my experience w…
Last reply by oranngetang, -
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Hello, I spent a good thirty minutes searching the catalogs at jegs and summit trying to figure out a way to run a straight hard line (my stock fuel "rail" isn't all that pretty right now) from the mechanical pump to the SU's. Two ways to go about this, A) find an original mech fuel pump and take out the "flared" outlets and swap them with a brake fitting or AN. The same would have to be done with the SU's. Possible? the aftermarket pumps available these days are not rebuildable, thiey only have the "flared" outlet to accept a rubber line. Is there some sort of adaptor on the market to attach to this to run to a hard line? This is all clearly cosmetic so I don't wan…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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My friend decieded he wont need the hidious smog thingy in his car and asked for my help. He has "euro" balance tube and wants to put it on place. It sure does look much better without, i used to have "euro" tube when i had SU's. SO, the difference is huge, compared to -72 smog equipment (plus this is automatic). Tons of hoses and stuff. Are those two water pipes necessarry, can we plug them? We live in northern Finland so temperature wont be an issue here... Basically, can we just strip all the stuff out?
Last reply by Stanley,
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